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The following page was printed from RemoteCentral.com:
Topic: | Replace TSU7000 screen This thread has 41 replies. Displaying posts 31 through 42. |
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Post 31 made on Wednesday December 6, 2006 at 12:43 |
jolitaly Long Time Member |
Joined: Posts: | November 2006 18 |
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I tried the card trick and it worked on one side but it didn't on the other. Should I take the Pronto apart and clean the glass? Thanks for the reply
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Post 32 made on Wednesday December 6, 2006 at 14:48 |
jolitaly Long Time Member |
Joined: Posts: | November 2006 18 |
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On July 5, 2006 at 19:51, Don O'Brien said...
I replaced the glass only. This require some quiet time and good lighting. There are actually 2 ribbon cables-1 ribbon cable is from the digitizer glass screen and is easily removed with a miniaturized version of the type of connection used to connect some laptop hard drives. The black clip slides away from the center of the processor board to the periphery of the board. The larger of the ribon cable is removed by rotating a very small arm/clamp counterclockwise into the processor board. Mine was a bit sticky in removing the ribbon cable from the second connector.
I placed each part in order as I removed them and assured that the unit booted after installing the ribbon cables and before installing the remaining parts.
One note, the plastic cover for the USB port and the docking connector is a small separate piece that mus be placed before "sandwiching" the back piece back on to the unit and securing with the 4 torx screws.
As mentioned in other places the basic steps are: 1)remove slide out back panel and battery 2)remove 4 torx screws and pull case back off the pronto exposing the processor board.
3)remove the 3 torx screws affixing the processor board to the mounting posts. 4)gently remove the 2 ribbon cables as instructed above. 5)the channel/vol button row and a rectangular mounting /spacer piece wil likely pop out, and the contact pad for all the hard buttons will also pop out 6)you will be left with lcd screen embedded and protected by a metal rectangular case to which the flat glass lcd screen is affixed (aggressively).
7) Use an exacto blade and separate the glass at the junction to the metal frame and separate the glass (which may split into 2 elements-glass/plastic) from the metal frame. The ribbon cable connected to the digitizer glass is adhered to the back side of the lcd cage and can be slow separated by gently pulling. 8)Scrape/clean all the adhesive residue from the metal frame. 9)Take out the new glass digitizer screen-placing the digitizer ribbon cable in the same place as before it was removed. Remove plastic protection from anterior and posterior surfaces new digitizer glass. Remove paper cover from 1/8" double backed tape and line up accurately and align/place on to metal frame.
10) Put humpty dumpty back on the wall.
Good luck. Thanks for this post it helped me out big time. Thanks again!!!
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Post 33 made on Wednesday December 6, 2006 at 14:51 |
jolitaly Long Time Member |
Joined: Posts: | November 2006 18 |
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On December 5, 2006 at 23:34, Lyndel McGee said...
Did you click the links in the first post at the top of this page? More that likely, you will need only the Glasstop.
However, before ordering one, ensure that using a smooth business card, that you can run it around the edges of the entire screen to make sure that nothing's wedged between the bezel and the glasstop. Sometimes, things get wedged in there and effectively make the touch screen non-responsive as the garbage wedged in there triggers a false press. Thanks for this suggestion I took the Pronto apart and cleaned the glass and now it works perfectly!!!!! I was worried bacause i just purchased my Pronto throuch Ebay and the ebay member who sold this to me was not responding to my e-mails. Thanks!!!
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Post 34 made on Sunday February 4, 2007 at 19:04 |
Technojay Lurking Member |
Joined: Posts: | February 2007 6 |
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I just happened to notice these posts. I have successfully changed three screens and they work like a dream! If anyone is not very confident of doing it themselves, I shall be glad to do it for them. -J
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JSP |
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Post 35 made on Tuesday February 6, 2007 at 09:00 |
JohnFox Founding Member |
Joined: Posts: | March 2002 75 |
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Technojay, got any parts? I need the latch/arm for the large ribbon connector.
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OP | Post 36 made on Thursday February 8, 2007 at 20:10 |
hansenmick Founding Member |
Joined: Posts: | February 2002 33 |
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Just thought I would post a reply to this. My 7k is still working perfectly....in fact, I am constantly scouring the 'net looking for more broken ones. Actually, I can't believe this post is still going.
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Post 37 made on Saturday February 10, 2007 at 18:09 |
Technojay Lurking Member |
Joined: Posts: | February 2007 6 |
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Sorry, no parts with me. Just a tech hand if someone needs it!
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JSP |
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Post 38 made on Tuesday March 13, 2007 at 08:22 |
inajeep Lurking Member |
Joined: Posts: | December 2004 4 |
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I wanna say thank you to the people of this thread who provided the information I needed to fix my TSU7000. The remote was dropped and the digitizer cracked but not the lcd. The digitizer was ordered and arrived promptly. Replacement was a bit tricky last night because this site was down during the time I replaced the glass. My only regret was that I did not photograph the process to share w/ the forum.
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Post 39 made on Wednesday March 14, 2007 at 23:21 |
inajeep Lurking Member |
Joined: Posts: | December 2004 4 |
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Well I spoke too soon. I am not sure how or why but I now have two cracks in the digitizer/glass at the upper and lower part of the glass. The day after I saw one and the next day I saw the other. Of course this is when I get home from work and my wife swears it wasn't dropped. I'm just disgusted. When the unit was back together the first time I checked and didn't see any cracks. If I over tightened anything it may have caused a stress crack but it doesn't matter now. The touch screen isn't working anymore after the 2nd crack. I'm not sure if I'll try it again or not.
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Post 40 made on Saturday March 17, 2007 at 11:50 |
inajeep Lurking Member |
Joined: Posts: | December 2004 4 |
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I spoke too soon part two. A day after the replacement a small crack appeared at the edge, a 2nd day later another crack on the bottom right and the third day later a long crack all the way through. I"m sure I put the unit back together properly. I can't understand what would cause stress cracks in that manner. If I over tightened the torx screws maybe but I just snugged them up. What ever the reason I am left with the decision to try again or just get a different remote.
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OP | Post 41 made on Thursday March 29, 2007 at 21:47 |
hansenmick Founding Member |
Joined: Posts: | February 2002 33 |
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Well, I happened to find another one on Ebay...arrived today. Same as my first one, the LCD was fine, just the glasstop was cracked. Just for giggles, I dropped it into my current base and all the buttons lit up and I heard its 'beep beep'....but no LCD. So, surgury began. Five minutes later, I had her torn apart. I became VERY clear that someone had done something to the original screen, and tried to CRAM something else in it's place. Hogged-out all of the plastic retainers that hold the screen in place...GROUND DOWN (yes...I said GROUND...IE with a GRINDER!!!!) the side opposite the ribbon cable connector ends and cut completely through the ribbons where they wrap around the screen!!!! Oh well. It cam in it's original box with all original documents, cables, software and the lot. Just so happened that my 600mah battery was losing it's charge-holding time, and this new one came with a 700mah unit. Also, my original base was starting to not allow my remote to dock correctly, the new one was more or less NIB. Keep it for spare parts.....might even ship it to Philips. Only cost me $50...I think Philips wanted $250 to do an out of warranty exchange, if I remember right....mybe I should look for the Ipaq the screens come from on Ebay....hmmmmm
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Post 42 made on Thursday April 19, 2007 at 11:26 |
ossocao Active Member |
Joined: Posts: | April 2004 637 |
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On March 17, 2007 at 11:50, inajeep said...
I spoke too soon part two. A day after the replacement a small crack appeared at the edge, a 2nd day later another crack on the bottom right and the third day later a long crack all the way through. I"m sure I put the unit back together properly. I can't understand what would cause stress cracks in that manner. If I over tightened the torx screws maybe but I just snugged them up. What ever the reason I am left with the decision to try again or just get a different remote. Man you have search and read before do-it-yourself. The replacment glass is a little bigger them the OEM one. So you need to work with a dreamel on the plastic frame to make room for it. For shure you did not noticed that when you closed your control the frame was too far from the glass and then you tightened the screws puting a lot of pressure on the glasstop edges. You have to work with a dreamel and cut the tabs in the ineer part of the plastic frame.
Last edited by ossocao
on April 19, 2007 11:40.
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