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Topic:
Basic Level Soundproofing Construction
This thread has 3 replies. Displaying all posts.
Post 1 made on May 28, 2010 at 09:26
T
Ted White
Long Time Member
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39
When discussing soundproofing, it's easy to quickly go down the road of exotic (expensive) materials to help stop sound. After all, we like exotic materials and equipment, so this is natural. However, let's not forget that we can build a very well isolated room at a reasonable cost if you follow a basic, tried and true methodology.

#1 Decouple the framing. This can be done with staggered stud or double stud walls. To decouple the ceiling, however, consider clips&channel or resilient Channel (RC-1). Note that RC-1 attempts to decouple, however there is no industry standard or specification for its construction, so I’d be concerned about using it.

#2 Install absorption in the cavities. This means standard fiberglass or mineral fiber in the walls and ceiling. Know that there is no data (that I have ever seen) that supports that any other insulation (including the “acoustic” labeled, and recycled cotton) works better. Also, foam (open or closed cell) is superior for thermal, but distinctly worse for acoustic. Use the cheapest fluffy fiber you can find.

#3 Add mass. Nothing better than standard thick 5/8" drywall. Great mass at 70+ pounds a board, and generally cheap. Use two layers. Only mud and tape the final layer.

After that, you’d turn your attention to the ventilation, lights and doors. All of these are flanking paths for sound to get out of the formidable room you just built. They can be dealt with fairly easily, but you’ll want to design this in.

I hope someone finds this useful.

Post 2 made on May 29, 2010 at 12:51
D
DeuceTrinal
Long Time Member
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January 2010
448
 One other tip - if you plan on having a high power sound system, watch the build carefully for things that can rattle or vibrate. Power conduit, pipes, wires etc in walls should all be secured at any vibration point. Ventilation grills and plenums must be chosen for construction methods that can't vibrate. Floor sheeting should be glued to the joists before nailing. 

If you just watch as the build progresses, you can catch a lot of the major vibration points, which muddy the room's sound and might not even be consciously audible, but do detract from the intended sound. 

More zip ties!
OP | Post 3 made on June 3, 2010 at 08:20
T
Ted White
Long Time Member
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February 2010
39
That's really great advice. Thank you.
Post 4 made on June 4, 2010 at 13:21
C
cjoneill
Select Member
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December 2002
2,174
+1. When I built my theater, I ran a sweep tone from 10Hz to 22kHz at reference levels after framing and again after sheet rock to make sure that there weren't any rattles.

CJ

I'm not a pro

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