No, you don't have to cut anything loose. The metal bezel around the screen unit, if you've seen pictures on ebay has some tabs on the outside. The front of the screen, the part you view, has a piece of glass and on top of that is the touch-screen portion. However, inside this metal housing is the LCD display and backlight.

Basically, I simply desoldered the 2 wires and the 2 tabs from the RC9200 screen, bent the tabs on the new screen such that they would go into the existing circuit board slots on the RC9200, swapped the 24 pin cable from my old screen to the new screen. Soldered the new tabs in place as they poked through the circuit board. Resoldered the 2 wires and reconnected the cable and good as new.

I discussed the glued to the metal portion as some users, if they have only a dead backlight, may want to replace the LCD guts and not the touch-screen portion. The goal behind this repair is to re-use the metal-tab part of the screen(touch portion) and only replace the LCD. In this case, you don't have to worry at all about bending tabs as you won't be using the outer portion of the new screen,only the LCD and backlight itself..

The RC9200 remote has some plastic tabs all around the unit. Once you remove the 2 screws, you have to work very carefully to separate the 2 pieces.

Start from the xmit end of the remote on the side without the contrast wheel, backlight button, and PC connection. On that side, near the xmit end of the remote, insert a very sharp knife to pry apart the pieces gently. Once you get one of the tabs to unsnap, work your way around the remote by moving in a U-shaped fashion around the remote down around the 4-way keypad and the docking station connection.

Eventually, you will get to a point where all the tabs finally break loose. While doing this, you should be VERY cognizant of the contrast wheel as you need to ensure you don't break it off when you separate the 2 plastic halves. Also, the battery connector may appear to catch when trying to separate the halves. Don't worry too much about the connector, focus on the contrast wheel.

Once you get it open, the circuit board is attached using 5 #6 Torx screws. Once you get the case open, unscrew these 5 screws and the board lifts off.

I highly recommend, this time of year, wearing an anti-static wrist strap. I also recommend obtaining a desoldering bulb, braid, or a bulb-soldersucker from Radio Shack before beginning this repair. You cannot do this repair without a #6 Torx wrench so go ahead and spend the $5 bucks at a good hardware store for one.