Universal Remote Control had provided me with this RF troubleshooting tip sheet after speaking with their tech support. Thinking I had already tried EVERYTHING, I followed this tip sheet exactly as it was written (the support agent was very convinging to do so)...bottom line...IT WORKED! This saved my butt and it could save yours too!

Enjoy! Here it is:

= = = = = = =
Trouble Shooting the MRF200 and MX800
The three steps for troubleshooting are:

1) Does the MX-800 work the system with the MRF-200 Base Station UNPLUGGED with all the devices set to IR line of sight operation (from the Program Menu, Step 9 RF Control)?

a. If learned codes are not working line of sight, try learning disconnected from the PC (see Stand Alone Learning in the manual)

or

b. Use the pre-programmed code sets in the database (many users ignore the generic code sets, try them).
Once ALL of your commands and macros work perfectly line of sight it is time to move to step 2. Don’t skip step 1.

2) Plug in the power supply to the MRF-200 base station and test the RF

a. DO NOT plug it into a surge suppressor strip with other A/V components.

b. DO NOT plug in any FLASHERS.

c. From the Program Menu, select step #9 RF Control

d. Set each device to RF Only operation

e. Select a specific flasher output for the most troublesome 6 devices. If you are planning to use the front blaster for some of your components, we will troubleshoot those later. Leave those devices set to all.
f. Save the file and download to the MX-800.

g. Turn on all of your A/V components.

h. Observe the MRF-200 base station, not the A/V components, and press a button with a command not a macro. Hold it down. The right hand status LED of the base station should stay lit while you press it. Release the button, the LED should immediately go out. If it stays lit or flickers, move the base station farther away from the components. Typically, 3 feet away is fine. The flasher cables are ten feet long for this reason. In some extreme cases, if the base station has to be moved farther away, you can extend the cables with any 24-gauge or better two conductor wire later.

i. Concentrate on getting the status LED to light with a press and go out with a release even if you have to move the base station outside the cabinet/closet with the gear.
Once this is working correctly, go on to step 3.

3) Test the MRF flashers with a component

a. Hook up one emitter to the base station (extend the wire if necessary). Make sure you plug it into the correct jack for the component you are going to test.

b. Test that with the emitter wire stretched out and connected, there is still clean RF.

c. If the emitter is acting as an antenna to increase RF interference, go back to step 2 and repeat the positioning until RF is clean.

d. Test commands for that particular component while moving the flasher to different test positions. Start with the flasher about 3’ away from the front panel. When a position gives 10 out of 10 commands good operation, note the spot and repeat the process with the same emitter (plugged into the correct jack) until you have noted the correct front panel spot for flashers on each component.

e. Route all of the flasher cables to the base station, labelling the plugs for the correct jack #. Reconnect and test.

The key elements are:
A) You must have reliable RF, before you test Flasher Positioning.

B) Engaging the IR routing of a device to a specific flasher eliminates the possibility of IR saturation from too many flashers doing the same thing. When operation is buggy, engage IR routing.

C) Even when only one flasher is outputting IR, the flasher can over power or saturate a component’s front panel sensor. Sometimes, the flasher has to be mounted an inch or more away from the front panel IR sensor.


Trouble Shooting the MRF100 and MX600
The steps for troubleshooting are:

1) Does the MX-600 work the system with the MRF-100 Base Station UNPLUGGED?
a. If learned codes are not working line of sight, try the pre-programmed code sets in the database (many users ignore the generic code sets, try them).
Once ALL of your commands and macros work perfectly line of sight it is time to move to step 2. Don’t skip step 1!

2) Plug in the power supply to the MRF-100 base station and test the RF

a. DO NOT plug it into a surge suppressor strip with other A/V components.

b. DO NOT plug in any FLASHERS.

c. Turn on all of your A/V components.

d. Observe the MRF-100 base station, not the A/V components. If the status light flickers, move the base station farther away from your components. Typically, 3 feet away is fine. The flasher cables are ten feet long for this reason. In some extreme cases, if the base station has to be moved farther away, you can extend the cables with any 24-gauge or better two conductor wire later.

e. Concentrate on getting the status LED to light with a button press and go out with a release, even if you have to move the base station outside the cabinet/closet with the gear.

Once this is working correctly, go on to step 3.

3) Hook up all of the emitters to the base station (extend the wire if necessary).
a. First test that with the emitter wire stretched out and connected, there is still clean RF.

b. If the emitter wires are acting as an antenna to increase RF interference, go back to step 2 and repeat the positioning until RF is clean.

c. Now, test commands for each component while moving the flasher to different test positions. Start with the flasher about 3’ away from the front panel. When a position gives 10 out of 10 commands good operation, note the spot and repeat the process with the next emitter until you have noted the correct front panel spot for flashers on each component.

d. If a component still acts buggy, try masking the flashers (or if it is close - the front panel blaster) on nearby components with IR opaque blocking covers to prevent over saturation from too many flashers in one cabinet. If you are using black electrical tape, test it on the front of the MX600 to see how many layers are necessary before using it. Often black electrical tape is very inefficient at blocking IR. REMEMBER, each flasher is as powerful as the flasher on the MX600 remote control!!!

The key elements are:

A) You must have reliable RF, before you test Flasher Positioning.

B) Even when only one flasher is outputting IR, the flasher can over power or saturate a component’s front panel sensor. Sometimes, the flasher has to be mounted a long way away from the front panel IR sensor. I have personally installed systems that required that a flasher be placed on the side of the component not the front panel.



TeknoGuy
- - Leading The New Generation of Geekery - -

"Thinking I had already tried EVERYTHING" Been there :)

Got the same tip sheet a couple months ago. Worked like a charm.

Can anybody explain how plugging a wall wart power supply (AC to DC converter) for a low voltage, low amperage device like the MRF-200 into a surge suppressor would adversely affect its performance? It's highly unlikely that the MRF could draw enough current to be choked by the surge suppressor, irrespective of any other components. This suggestion seems to me like the company is grasping at straws.

I think the theory is that surge suppressors can generate RF noise and the issue is just being close to the unit.

Hi Fletch,

There is no theory, just a couple of tech support calls where the problems went away when the adapter was removed from a surge suppressor strip.

Could have been defective surge suppressor, maybe it was a fluke of RF black magic, we just know that on a few installations, it solved the problems.

Arguably, there is nothing wrong with surge protectors in most installations, mine included. When troubleshooting, it's best to remove variables that are quick and easy first, that's why it is on the list.

Best Regards,

-Eric

Eric Johnson
www.hometheaterpro.com

1-800-247-7001

Another UNOFFICAL fix for some of my RF problems with the MRF200 has been to open it up and disconnect the antenna, it elimates alot of interference, and still maintins the range. Worked like a charm on some of the installs we had, but it probably isn't fool proof. Not sure if I can say where the idea came from, but it works.

Avtasi is right, in a job where you can't move the MRF-200 any farther away, and are getting moderate RF interference (LED works, but flickers after a button is released), you can remove the antenna to reduce sensitivity. Two things to add:

1) You don't have to open the MRF-200. You get the same result by removing a single phillips screw at the end of the antenna and removing the antenna.

2) Your range will be reduced by about 50% typically. Since the range is designed to give between 75 and 150 feet, your new range will be approx 30-75 feet.

Best Regards,

-Eric

Eric Johnson
www.hometheaterpro.com

Phone 1-800-247-7001

On paper the range is 75-150 ft but we have been able to get a lot more out of it. We have been able to maintain 150ft range even without the antenna on more than one occasion

I think this thread will answer alot of the RF problems that people are having in this forum. It should be added to, so that it remains current reducing the amount of time the same questions are asked, and people won't have to do a search for it

Got a problem with the MRF200. First I have no sticker on the bottom of the MRF200. There is some gummy stuff on the bottom of the MRF200 as if it had a sticker but was pulled off. Anyway, I just set up my MRF200 and MX800 devices. The MX800 works fine. The MRF200 was totally unresponsive as if it were not set on same channel. Power LED on but no status LED at all. Then trying the tin foil trick I got a few blips and then nothing. I unplugged the MRF200 and headed into another room to get away from TV since it was responding to the MX800 while testing the MRF200. While in the bedroom the status LED on the MRF200 worked. So back to the living room but this time I used a different outlet and placed the MRF200 on the arm rest of the couch. I got a few blips and an occasional response from the TV. After playing with the tin foil a bit with no success I set the MRF200 on the tile floor. Watched a little TV while I thought about returning the POS. Then as I noticed while using the MX800 to change channels the MRF200 while on the floor was getting full status LED. So I ran to the bedroom with the MX800 and tried it to controll the TIVO in the bedroom. It worked! I tried setting the MRF200 in several locations in the living room but nothing works except on the floor. I plan to remove the antenna and see if I can get it to work with out being on the floor. Any other suggestions? And for those who have version stickers on the bottom of the MRF200, where is it located? Thanks!

The version sticker is on the bottom between the rubber feet on the short side of the unit. Version 0.0 has no sticker. If yours had a sticker and it was removed, there's no way to tell which one it is.

Hi,

This thread was definitely helpful. But, what I've noticed with my system is that some of the devices produce the steady light as long as a button is pressed but the others from my MX-800 produce a flickering light.

I've plugged the MX-200 in an outlet far away from any equipment with no flashers attached. I removed the antenna as well to see if I get better results. It makes no sense because the device that produces the strong signal are learned codes and the ones that produce the flicker are both learned and retrieved from the IR database. They all work when in line of sight.

Any ideas? Does this mean I have a bad MX-800 remote?

Thanks,

Andrew

Actually my MRF200 flickers rather lights up when receiving a signal from the MX800. It this normal?

Old, old thread, but let's see what happens.

I have seen some odd behavior and I'm curious if it's linked with what you guys are talking about. I have an MX-600 and MRF-100. With all my devices that work fine, pressing buttons on the remote causes the status light on the MRF-100 to be bright. But on one of my devices (Hughes DirecTV Tivo) that isn't reliable, the status light is bright for a split second and then is only half as bright. On the other device that has problems (KOSS KS3102), the light is always dim when a button is pressed. With the Tivo, if I unplug the MRF-100, operation is much more reliable. With the KOSS, however, it makes no difference at all. These are the only two devices that have problems and in both cases, the status light isn't as bright. Any thoughts?

BTW, I posted in this thread because it sounded like it might be connected to my problems and not because I just wanted to post all over the place to increase my chances of getting help. I say this just in case someone thinks I'm spamming. So, in an attempt so keep conversations from going all over the forum, if anyone has any ideas for me, the thread and full description of my problem is here: [Link: remotecentral.com]

This message was edited by zytrex on 07/12/05 10:26 ET.

I've got an issue with Universal Remote Inc.'s MRF-250 unit and my MythTV box.

Rather than duplicating my post, I'll just post a link to the thread that I started elsewhere:

[Link: remotecentral.com]

I'd appreciate any advice!