If I'm hearin you, your looking for this BUT cheaper or smaller

[Link: keydigital.com]

Have you been able to confirm whether the RG6 coax they ran is copper-clad steel, or solid copper center?

[Link: avdeals.com]
Or this if hes content w the single source option as he has now.

My question is how much of your time do you spend to make a system he bought cheap work. He bought it cheap, It was designed bad, and now your spending a ton of time trying to figure out how to make the mess work. Just tell him the way it should be done, the cost, and if he doesn't want to spend the money move on.
Patching a mess just makes you look bad.

If you run the signal to one display at a time (not y-cabled) and the picture is satisfactory to the client, then a distribution amp may be all he would need and the dollar expenditure would be minimized.

The RG6 for video debate is well chronicled here - do a search. Why don't you check the results yourself with direct feeds?

That way you might be able to offer a cost effective solution and then a "right way" solution.

To follow up with multiple questions and comments here:

1) I do not know if the RG6 is CCS, but I do know it is "HDTV rated and sweep tested to 2.2ghz" as printed on the jacket of the cable. I've read the CCS/Copper debates, and agree that solid copper is the way to go. The question is -- is the coax causing the ringing in and of itself, or is it because of the multiple splits and switchbox (which is what I'm inclined to believe). In other words, if I left the splits alone, and just ran new coax, would the problem be resolved (probably not).

2) I never said I was looking for 'cheap', only that 2 distribution amplifiers will get expensive. I was originally looking at the Key Digital piece, and 2 of those will cost the customer well over $1,000 just in parts. I was asking about alternatives.

3) The guy is not a cheap guy. He was screwed by the other installers who sold him a song-and-a-dance, then failed to deliver. He's spending good money after bad by having me fix the other guys screw-ups. I've already spent 2 labor days at this guys house, and I'm just about finished. This master suite issue is the last thing I have to deal with.

4) The current situation is 'acceptable' for basic video watching, as the picture is better then any modulated system would be, HOWEVER, it is NOT fulfilling the potential of the displays, which is what the customer was SOLD by the other guys. Now I need to deliver on their promise, and I'm looking for the most 'cost-effective' solution. Attic work in Florida in the summer is not pleasent, and therefore, not cheap. I'd rather not have to re-run the cables, but if that's what I have to do, then that's what I'm doing. I'd like to see of the cables can be used, and a different amplifier/distribution system can be substituted instead.

Hope this answers some questions. Thanks again everyone for the input! Keep on throwing those ideas out here, maybe we'll come to some kind of consensus.

Fred

fred, this is your problem. get 2 component video amps 1 in 4 out and your problems will go away.

ed

As a hired gun AMX programmer I've seen plenty of companies use RG-6 for component video with no problems (allthough that is not what I would do personally), I would still say that the issue is with the number of splits that are being made. Go with the key digital or something similar (2x4 or 4x4 switch) and put his 4.1 piece on Ebay, you should only need one of them, not sure why you stated that you would need two, you only have two sources and 3 displays right?

I know that using a Y cable is a bad choice for splitting the video signal. And also agree that a distribution amp will correct the problem. I know that some A/V receivers short the inputs when power is off. I don't know if that also happened's in a video display. Does it happen when both sets are on ?

Note that as the frequency goes up, what is in the center of the center conductor will make no difference. This is what skin effect is all about. As the frequency increases, most of the signal is carried at the skin depth of the conductor. So your argument that bare copper will work better than copper covered steel at 450MHz just doesn't make sense. The figures for loss per foot already take this into account.

This thread isn't about what will work best in a new install. It's about will the cable that is there work adequately. It will. The issue is the signal loss. The amount of signal loss you have is high, because you've automatically dropped signal strength in half as soon as you use a splitter.

Once a component video distribution amp is used with the existing cabling, the issues of darkness and ghosting will go away.

Noted the mention of the Y-cable rather than a splitter.

Note that a Y cable does not keep the impedance matched to the two outputs. This will result in reflections in the cabling. The reflections will exhibit themselves in the video signal as picture information that is offset, ie: ghosting.

My suggestion:

1. Leave the cable, not a first choice for the install (For issue other than what Brentm discusses) but it will work adequately, especially at the distances you likely have.

2. Get rid of the Y-cables, these are causing the ghosting. Replace with a component video distribution amp or amps. If you need one or two amps will depend on which amp you choose.

You've got little to use by not re-running the cables. Everyone agrees that the component video distribution amps are required. Add those into the system. If the system still doesn't look good, the only possibility is that the RG6 was damaged badly during install. (Crushed, kinked, bent in too many places, changing the impedance from 75 ohm to something else, in too many locations.) Only at this point is it time to punt and replace the coax.

OK, now that we've determined the issue is the "Y" cables, I need a recommendation on a distribution amp.

Key Digital seems to only have 1-in/3-out as well as other varieties, but I need 2-in/3-out. Does anyone make a decent distribution amp with 2-in? I'm thinking a combo switch (doesn't need to be matrix, as all TVs will share the same viewing source at the same time) that also amplifies.

Anyone?

Fred

Then you will need a 1in 3out hooked up to the output of your 4.1 piece. A 2in 3out would be a matrix switch.

Heres a thought.

how about component to the plasma and see if both boxes will output s video simultaneously to the lcd. Geez its only 19". Cheap solution that might save everyone some headache.

Check out video-storm.com, they have a CI program too; I've used their 1in, 3out piece w/good luck (and yes, with copper RG6 ;))