So, you didn’t supply enough information for me to be sure, it seems that you are saying the TV should never be used with its original stand, just sitting on a shelf. So, you earthquake proof every television that you set on a shelf or cabinet top? I live in California, and if what you are inferring is true, I have been a hack for over 25 years.

I also hope they don't "just put it on a shelf" that's why I felt the need to tell these veteran custom installers to plug the power cord in so it turns on.

So do I

I'm implying it (or not). You're inferring it. The person speaking implies. The listener infers. Just like you don't run wires from speakers to an amp, you run wires from an amp to the speakers.

I don't think that's true, just because you're ignoring one possible means of a kid getting killed. (That escalated quickly, didn't it?)

TV safety strap shown on a medium size flatscreen: [Link: amazon.com]

Flat Screen TV Mount Anti-Tip Safety Bracket: [Link: plowhearth.com]

TV Safety Straps: [Link: amazon.com]

Anti-tip TV Strap: [Link: amazon.com]

Frankly, I have only done wall mounted TVs for at least the last ten years, so I might be a hack if I had ever done... no, wait: I have a client who moved and just wanted his TVs placed using the stands they came with.

Revisiting this...I read your post where it's a $2M home...So, exposed wires aren't going to fly. 

1. Go to the house and measure the size of the "square" back of the cabinet.  Go to Home Depot and get a 3/4" piece of birch plywood. Cut it to the dimensions.  Sand it and throw a couple of light coats of satin poly on it.

2. Attach 2/4's vertically on the back of the cabinet, in effect  building studs.  Now you've created a void between where the existing wires come through the floor.

3. Run wires up the studs, attach gang boxes, etc.

4. Cut holes in your birch plywood for gang boxes.

5. Screw the birch plywood to the studs.

6. Mount TV.

Now you've effectively hidden the wires and have solid studs + Plywood to mount  to.

I’m not lovin’ this scheme. The cabinet back might be 1/4” and poorly attached. Without having access to the back of the cabinet, how would one securely attach the studs to the plywood? Further, the cabinet would need to be bonded to the wall if an articulated arm is used.

To do this right, look at everybody's suggestions and think carefully. For instance, Hasbeen's list of things to do looks perfect, except

*Those vertical 2x4s are attached... how? Screws down through the top of the cabinet and up through the lowest shelf? If I remember the description right, the shelves can be installed at different heights and are just sitting on pegs. Screws in from the sides?

*How many 2x4s?

*There's no step where he checks to see that pulling forward on the cabinet won't tip it over.

Man this seems like it’s getting overly complicated.


Update. The cabinet/shelving does not go completely to the ceiling but the drywall was sloped downward from the back wall to meet the front of the cabinet. So that makes finding wall stud above cabinet a no go. However the electrician is making cutouts to move gangboxes. I’ll be able to peak in and find the studs and see what I am working with. My plan is to hope for no surprises and that studs are right there and cabinet is flush to wall. Lag mount to studs, hang tv and call it a day.

That's just because, for us out here commenting, there are a lot of IFs.

Once you get there and find out if the back panel is 3/4" mahogany or wood-grained cheesecloth, entire posts get thrown out in favor of what's really there.

That's what happens when you can't hone the question with all the relevant details.


Probably won't be THAT simple, though.

"Drywall sloped downward." Loved that bit. Maybe... it's sloped forward?

Hahaha that reply was from the phone on the road. I’ll post a new pic for you guys soon with more detail. This things like 20’ wide.

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[url=[Link: ibb.co]][img][/img][/url]

Seeing those photos, I have two comments.

That drywall near the ceiling looks like the fake snowy roofs found on an occasional restaurant here in Southern California, where the roof is faked to look like it's been a snowy week.

All the comments in all the posts need to be evaluated in the face of what you actually have here. Once you figure out how the thing is built, it should be pretty straightforward and you should have few problems, as long as the structure cannot pull out from the wall AT ALL.

Have a fun day!

Sometimes I think that we over complicate things while trying to be gentle on the walls and cabinets. Most of the electricians that I see will wack a few holes with a hammer, install outlets and leave. We, on the other hand, fret about avoiding patching and painting. Another dimension is that customers don't seem to mind hiring a patch and paint person after the electrician, but object to doing the same for us.

In this particular example, you should be able to anchor 2x4's to the uprights and cover with a false back. Unless there is some other reason to use an articulating arm, a flat mount should work.

If the TV mostly fills the opening, just paint the chamber black, rather than attempt to match the wood.

update. Install went fine. The cabinet was indeed 1" wood for the backer. Electrician raised a coax and outlet box up so was simple to pull them out and find the studs. Two studs placed absolutely right where I would have wanted them. Ran 4 4.25" long lags into the studs and they bit like a champ. He plans to put a chest below the tv at some point in the near future. See pics below.

[url=[Link: ibb.co]][img][/img][/url]
[url=[Link: ibb.co]][img][/img][/url]
[url=[Link: ibb.co]][img][/img][/url]
[url=[Link: ibb.co]][img][/img][/url]

Yeah, and you sure as hell were ready for whatever you might find, huh? This is why I love this site and the whole group of us.

The tips and advice are good stuff. Thanks everyone.