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How would anchor this TV into these built ins on the wall
This thread has 43 replies. Displaying posts 16 through 30.
Post 16 made on Thursday January 10, 2019 at 09:18
Mac Burks (39)
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Do you really need the articulating mount? Or was that just so you could mount to the back wall? If you don't need the screen to move why not just put in a shelf that the TV can sit on?
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OP | Post 17 made on Thursday January 10, 2019 at 09:58
gerard143
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Lmao nothing wrong with seeking out opinions. Not afraid to ask if I have questions. To me it seems pretty straightforward. Find the studs above it. Transfer measurements. Drill a pilot to make sure studs are where I expect. Bolt it down. If there’s a gap fill with spacer. Done.

Btw ya that door is a slider.
OP | Post 18 made on Thursday January 10, 2019 at 10:06
gerard143
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On January 10, 2019 at 09:18, Mac Burks (39) said...
Do you really need the articulating mount? Or was that just so you could mount to the back wall? If you don't need the screen to move why not just put in a shelf that the TV can sit on?

Client does not want to make any shelving modifications.
Post 19 made on Thursday January 10, 2019 at 11:03
tomciara
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If the cabinet is there to stay and so is the TV, cut out the cabinet back just larger than the mount plate. Just one more way to git ‘er done.

BTW, sitting on a shelf is usually less than ideal as you know. The mount may be all the way to the front of the shelf, but the screen will be recessed 4-6”.

Last edited by tomciara on January 10, 2019 11:13.
There is no truth anymore. Only assertions. The internet world has no interest in truth, only vindication for preconceived assumptions.
Post 20 made on Thursday January 10, 2019 at 11:04
Rob Grabon
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Move 2 shelves to the bottom.
Place TV on shelf, equipment below.
Cash check.

edit (didn't see no moving of shelves comment)
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OP | Post 21 made on Thursday January 10, 2019 at 11:25
gerard143
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On January 10, 2019 at 11:04, Rob Grabon said...
Move 2 shelves to the bottom.
Place TV on shelf, equipment below.
Cash check.

edit (didn't see no moving of shelves comment)

THIS! GOOD CALL

More detail... I can move shelves I'm sure. Rebuilding the shelving area however is a no! I mentioned maybe being able to fit a 65" TV but we would have less then an 1/8 clearance at best! He mentioned not wanting to have to redo part of the cabinet and we both agreed on the 55".
Post 22 made on Thursday January 10, 2019 at 11:39
oprahthehutt.
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I would probably create a new black cabinet back mounted to a couple of 2x4's. Then just do a flat mount/w tilt.

He's going to wish he did that sooner or later anyway.
Post 23 made on Thursday January 10, 2019 at 12:46
gwstudios
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Move the shelf down that is above the current TV, and use the stand that comes with the new one and place it on that shelf.
Post 24 made on Thursday January 10, 2019 at 15:54
Mac Burks (39)
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On January 10, 2019 at 10:06, gerard143 said...
Client does not want to make any shelving modifications.

Shelves have to be adjustable. They should be easy to.recongfigure.

On a side note...my OCD would force me to line the shelves up with the door on the left side. I couldn't handle looking at that every day.
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Post 25 made on Thursday January 10, 2019 at 16:53
gwstudios
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On January 10, 2019 at 09:18, Mac Burks (39) said...
Do you really need the articulating mount? Or was that just so you could mount to the back wall? If you don't need the screen to move why not just put in a shelf that the TV can sit on?

Yep. That's what I said.
Post 26 made on Thursday January 10, 2019 at 17:23
Ernie Gilman
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Don't just "put the TV on the shelf." It MUST be attached to the wall behind it in some way so that an earthquake, or a five year old pulling on it (same thing) won't make the TV fall forward.

On January 9, 2019 at 23:10, buzz said...
Another scheme would be to mount a couple two by fours between the shelf uprights and secure the mount to these. BE SURE TO SECURE THE CABINET TO THE WALL. Otherwise, it is likely to tip over when the TV is pulled out. Also, this scheme will allow the mount to be mounted at the best depth.

He means to mount hte 2x4s horizontally, I think. I did this once with a non-articulating mount and it was really hard to get the 2x4s positioned so the front of the TV was exactly where needed.

On January 10, 2019 at 02:56, pilgram said...
Grab a peice of 1/2" emt ,stick it in the hole,mark the length to the outer side of the back,cut it, and you have a custom spacer!

Be sure you've removed the drywall behind the cabinet so the EMT goes from bracket to stud. The motion of the articulated arm will grind the EMT into any drywall that's there, causing the whole mount to become loose. Secure but floppy, that is.

On January 10, 2019 at 09:04, drewski300 said...
Not to be a dick but I'm a little concerned that you are asking for advice. This is a pretty simple install.

All of us can work for years without encountering something that the rest of us find simple, that we've conquered long before. It's a simple install to you and to me, but the first time we did one, we had to think carefully, or maybe someone told us what to do.


-If it's 3/4" hardwood, use screws wherever you want. I would pre-drill the holes so that you have more thread bite. Don't use too large of a drill bit.

You should always drill pilot holes for lag screws! "Too large" should not be an issue because you should know something like this from [Link: popularwoodworking.com].

First, drill a pilot hole through [the] boards. Pilot holes guarantee that your screw won't break off and your wood won't crack. For most hardwoods, the pilot hole should be at least as large as the screw's minor diameter. If the screw has deep threads, or the wood is very hard, the pilot hole should be another 1/64-in. [larger].

-If it's 3/4" particle board, I'd use 4 large toggles as well as 4 lags pre-drilling like above. Toggles

He means Togglers. Toggle Bolts are never to be used. Period.
will ensure the screws will never fall out. The only reason I wouldn't just use lags is that with any type of moisture, the MDF (or particle board) could swell and pull out over time. Ask me how I know...

Unfortunately, you didn't have someone telling you how to do this, telling you that MDF and particle board won't hold worth a damn on a lag bolt. NEVER depend on MDF or particle board to hold against a pull-out load.
-If it's 1/4" skin, you have to go back to a stud. If the cabinet is pulled away from the back wall, then you will have to find an alternative.

An alternative has been given, which is to make spacers so there's something solid from the back of the bracket all the way to the stud.
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
Post 27 made on Friday January 11, 2019 at 03:16
pilgram
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On January 10, 2019 at 17:23, Ernie Gilman said...
Don't just "put the TV on the shelf." It MUST be attached to the wall behind it in some way so that an earthquake, or a five year old pulling on it (same thing) won't make the TV fall forward.

Exactly!
Be sure you've removed the drywall behind the cabinet so the EMT goes from bracket to stud. The motion of the articulated arm will grind the EMT into any drywall that's there, causing the whole mount to become loose. Secure but floppy, that is.

Also an absolute.I thoght I made it clear but it is important........


"Then use a 5'8" spade bit to drill through the back and the drywall to the stud."
Every day is a good day.......some are just better than others!

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Post 28 made on Friday January 11, 2019 at 14:41
Ernie Gilman
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I should have been more negative about using short sections of conduit.

EMT wall is thin enough that it would definitely dig through drywall, but it also might dig into wood, as well. I've seen EMT used as uprights in an A/V store, separating shelves, but they also used a washer between the EMT ends and the shelves they were supporting.

There's a clear advantage to using a 5/8" spade bit to cut through the back wall of the shelf unit, which is that you don't have to make holes any larger than that. But I've seen A LOT of studs that aren't perfectly vertical or are in places where prior remodeling made the inside of the wall unpredictable. I'd want to uncover that wall and not just trust measuring straight down from studs I can locate near the ceiling.

This is not paranoia. This is experience. Don't trust everything you think you can see clearly, and trust even less what you're extrapolating!
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
Post 29 made on Friday January 11, 2019 at 15:19
Mac Burks (39)
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On January 10, 2019 at 17:23, Ernie Gilman said...
Don't just "put the TV on the shelf." It MUST be attached to the wall behind it in some way so that an earthquake, or a five year old pulling on it (same thing) won't make the TV fall forward.

Also make sure to plug the TVs power cord in or it wont turn on.
Avid Stamp Collector - I really love 39 Cent Stamps
Post 30 made on Friday January 11, 2019 at 17:31
Ernie Gilman
Yes, That Ernie!
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Mac, when someone asks for help and more than one person say "just put it on the shelf," you've gotta hope that they don't follow that advice and JUST put it on the shelf. Since that's such an obvious and elementary solution, perhaps tying it down so it won't fly is also worth mentioning.

I like your sense of humor, though. Always have.
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
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