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See the pic client sent me.

Anyways he wants that old tv removed and I'll be hanging a 55" LG OLED there on an articulating mount.  Curious how you folks would anchor the mount.  I haven't seen in person but I would have to guess its all made out of 1" thick wood.  Just run some lags right thru and call it a day?  Toggles? Or you think its essential I hit a stud.  Never tried to find a stud behind something like this but I am sure your typical stud finder is useless.

Here's the mount: [Link: snapav.com]

Not even your link shows a pic.

fixed (I hope)

Link worked. Maybe you fixed it soon enough to not show here was an edit.

This looks like IKEA shelving, but even if those back panels are actual wood, they're probably 1/4" thick and might be spaced as much as a half inch off the wall. Don't even think about mounting anything there until you have taken apart the unit that the TV will mount to so you can see exactly what the dimensioning is on the back.

Don't hit one stud. Hit two. If you can't hit more than one, then install togglers (not, and NEVER, toggle bolts) and spacers at the top and bottom left and right of the mount, and tell the client to be gentle with the TV.

So, if the back panels are spaced off the wall, drill holes where the studs are (you have to remove the back panel to find the studs) and add spacers between the drywall or whatever is back there so that there is no open space, front to back, between the front of the mounting bolt and the wood that you sink it into. If you have to install togglers, put similar spacers between the front of the bolt and the drywall.

Actually....
If the back panel is off the wall, why not remove as much drywall as you have to in order to get EXACTLY into the studs? That section will be behind the shelving's back panel, so the lack of drywall won't show.

EDIT: Oh, yeah: you said "this TV." Is that TV a 55? Do you have to demo any of the unit to get it to fit widthwise?

Mounting it isn't the problem.  Concealing the wires is...Looks like the wires are coming out of the floor.  You need to make sure you can fish those wires up the wall behind the cabinet for a nice finish.

Another scheme would be to mount a couple two by fours between the shelf uprights and secure the mount to these. BE SURE TO SECURE THE CABINET TO THE WALL. Otherwise, it is likely to tip over when the TV is pulled out. Also, this scheme will allow the mount to be mounted at the best depth.

I would build a box inside of the hole that has a door I could open. Recess the the box where the mount will attach, flush the door to the front of the build-in. all of the wires and some equipment could go inside the door.

Yes the power comes from the bottom from what we see in the pic. I told the client that this is going to be an issue wall mounted and with the TV not on a stand to hide wiring. Power wire def wouldn't be hidden unless some changes were made.

I was originally thinking the shelving was custom built as this is a 2 million dollar home. But maybe not. I did notice a bunch of metal peg inserts where the shelves could be adjustable. That to me almost seems more like a premade deal them custom but idk much about cabinets lol.

I also had assumed it was anchored to the wall but that is a good point that it might not be. I also assumed the backside would be flush up against the drywall. Maybe not.

I figured i would just locate the studs above the shelving. Take some measurements and the stud should run down the wall behind the shelving. I could drill a small pilot hole in that area and see if I hit a stud. I also have a small boroscope camera I could drop thru a pilot hole to help locate studs.

I couldn't tell from the pic.
Does the cabinet run to the ceiling?

If no,grab a ladder and run the stud finder/knuckle above the cabinet and transfer the measurements down.
You might alo be able to tell if ther is a gap between the wall.

i don't believe it does. I last saw it in person about a year ago, I can't recall but i think from the picture that it definitely doesn't go all the way up to the ceiling as that room had super tall ceilings.

You could conceal the wiring by matching it: paint the inside back of the cabinet black. Then be sure all cables are black or are enclosed in a black channel. That actually will increase the contrast of the picture some as you won't have a brown frame going around the TV.

Then you're all set!

If there is a space between the the cabinet back and the wall,drill a 3/16" hole (a 6" bit is pretty cheap) to verify that you are in the stud.

Then use a 5'8" spade bit to drill through the back and the drywall to the stud.

Grab a peice of 1/2" emt ,stick it in the hole,mark the length to the outer side of the back,cut it, and you have a custom spacer!

Lag it to the wall,run your cables in an onwall cable chaise (on wall conduit/cable hider?)

This also works well for uneven surfices like fire places with uneven surfaces.(it's secured to the wall,not the brick or the "fake-looks like stone " cover.

Should be a piece of cake and be rock solid!

I usually add an hour to the quote but it usually takes about 1/2 hour additional to the normal installation.

Looking at the top and bottom edging details, this is a custom cabinet. An Ikea special would not have quarter round at the floor. It is also possible that the glass panel on the left is a sliding door. (Observe that black clip at the bottom right of the TV chamber and the relative alignments of vertical joints at the left.)

Appears cabinet is anchored to the wall. Look right of cable box. Perhaps add some more. And make sure back panel is secure to cabinet. False back wall is my method. False panel can be decorative with structure behind it. Or 3/4 ply finished to match. That’s up to you.

Not to be a dick but I'm a little concerned that you are asking for advice. This is a pretty simple install.

If you aren't going to do an exploratory visit then bring both lags and toggles with you. The back of the cabinet is either 3/4" particle board, 3/4" hardwood, or a 1/4" skin.

-If it's 3/4" hardwood, use screws wherever you want. I would pre-drill the holes so that you have more thread bite. Don't use too large of a drill bit.
-If it's 3/4" particle board, I'd use 4 large toggles as well as 4 lags pre-drilling like above. Toggles will ensure the screws will never fall out. The only reason I wouldn't just use lags is that with any type of moisture, the MDF (or particle board) could swell and pull out over time. Ask me how I know...
-If it's 1/4" skin, you have to go back to a stud. If the cabinet is pulled away from the back wall, then you will have to find an alternative.

The alternative would be to frame the section your TV would go. Use 2x4's. You could either frame it for the depth of an art arm or pull it forward and use a fixed mount. Use a 3/4" hardwood as the back wall the TV will mount to. That 3/4" hardwood will mount to your 2x4 framing. Stain the 3/4" hardwood accordingly.

After all of that, install new shelves below the TV so that everything looks like it was meant to be. If your wood working skills are up to the task, hire a carpenter or a cabinet guy. This is a super easy job for them.