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Topic:
How to mount TV to brick fireplace?
This thread has 46 replies. Displaying posts 16 through 30.
Post 16 made on Sunday May 17, 2015 at 08:26
thecapnredfish
Senior Member
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1,397
Should have been able to shear off those tapcons.mthey do not stand up to being twisted. Broken many off.
Post 17 made on Sunday May 17, 2015 at 08:34
Zohan
Super Member
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3,091
On May 16, 2015 at 23:14, 3PedalMINI said...
Epoxy with all thread...Only way todo brick and sleep at night.

+1000


This is what I picked up 2-3 years ago.

[Link: us.hilti.com]

[Link: us.hilti.com]


I've been using this for kustom install of outdoor lighting, it would probably work for mounting also

[Link: homedepot.com]
Post 18 made on Sunday May 17, 2015 at 15:24
FreddyFreeloader
Super Member
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3,208
+1 Tapcons suck hardcore unless you're just hanging J hooks from concrete or something then they are still a PIA.
Post 19 made on Sunday May 17, 2015 at 19:15
Booger
Long Time Member
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December 2006
380
Talk him into a projector and a Motorized screen.
OP | Post 20 made on Sunday May 17, 2015 at 19:25
Fins
Elite Member
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11,563
On May 17, 2015 at 19:15, Booger said...
Talk him into a projector and a Motorized screen.

He already remodeled the room. I'm going to have to retro speakers and fix what he pulled to the TV. It's a shame too because it would have been nice to add some deck speakers and some speakers out by the patio.
Civil War reenactment is LARPing for people with no imagination.

Post 21 made on Sunday May 17, 2015 at 19:27
Tom Grooms
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129
Lots of Tapcon haters in this thread. I'm in Florida where all my customers homes are block/stucco or poured concrete. I exclusively use Tapcon concrete anchors. On inside walls we use the 3 1/4" straight through the drywall and on outside (lanai) installations we use 1 3/4". These things are way stronger than structural screws in a wood stud or snaptoggles in drywall. I'm 180lbs and I do pull-ups on these wall mount brackets before hanging the display. There isn't anything easier or stronger out there. Tapcons for the win....
OP | Post 22 made on Sunday May 17, 2015 at 19:39
Fins
Elite Member
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11,563
My problem with tapcons isn't the strength. It's that I've never had great luck getting them to tighten and not strip out
Civil War reenactment is LARPing for people with no imagination.

Post 23 made on Sunday May 17, 2015 at 19:58
Tom Grooms
Long Time Member
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129
I drive them in with an impact and haven't stripped one in years. If I do run across a stripped hole that I must use, a little 1" piece of speaker wire is all that's required. I stripped a few when I started out, like anything else it just takes a little practice.
Post 24 made on Tuesday June 23, 2015 at 22:53
Oone
Long Time Member
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January 2007
19
I like to use mortar cement then insert sleeve anchors.
Rock solid.
Post 25 made on Wednesday June 24, 2015 at 08:39
highfigh
Loyal Member
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7,735
On May 17, 2015 at 19:39, Fins said...
My problem with tapcons isn't the strength. It's that I've never had great luck getting them to tighten and not strip out

Do you use their drill bit, or your own? I have a set of Bad Dog bits and the smaller TapCons don't work with the 3/16"" bit, but the 1/4" and 5/16" do. I gave up on the small TapCons because my Milwaukee hammer drill twists the heads off every time. If a stud sticking out isn't a problem, I sometimes use wedge anchors (NOT Acme-Johnson).
My mechanic told me, "I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder."
Post 26 made on Wednesday June 24, 2015 at 15:12
PatMac
Long Time Member
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February 2014
211
Have used Togglers a few times in cinder block. Great for metal studs, too. They are awesome.

[Link: toggler.com]

Available at Lowes
Post 27 made on Wednesday June 24, 2015 at 17:22
tomciara
Loyal Member
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May 2002
7,345
These threads come up every few months. Everyone has their opinion on what is best.

I would only note that the needs are greater with an arm (which I would not do at all) vs. a flat or tilting mount.

If you use enough of them, the little plastic sleeves that come with a Snap mount, though not a first choice, are going to hold an LED TV of almost any size on brick. Because of the type of construction, I was recently unable to get togglers to open up behind some stucco on an exterior wall. There were no air spaces greater than 3/8 of an inch. The exterior coat of stucco was greater than 1 inch thick. The sleeves in quantity survived the fat boy test.

Note that my opinion would be to never attach the mount to the mortar, but always to the brick. I know there are differing opinions on this point.
There is no truth anymore. Only assertions. The internet world has no interest in truth, only vindication for preconceived assumptions.
Post 28 made on Wednesday June 24, 2015 at 19:26
Audiophiliac
Super Member
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3,220
I am about to mount a 55" sammy on a proper brick fireplace. I plan to use sleeve anchors in the center of the brick, possibly with epoxy if I feel the need.
"When I eat, it is the food that is scared." - Ron Swanson
Post 29 made on Sunday June 28, 2015 at 01:48
Ranger Home
Super Member
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3,428
Surely when y'all talk about anchors and epoxy, you are talking about only epoxying the ANCHOR and not the mount to the brick lol. Just want to clear that up so someone doenst get confused and start gluing mounts to the brick lol.
Post 30 made on Sunday June 28, 2015 at 08:14
highfigh
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7,735
On June 28, 2015 at 01:48, Ranger Home said...
Surely when y'all talk about anchors and epoxy, you are talking about only epoxying the ANCHOR and not the mount to the brick lol. Just want to clear that up so someone doenst get confused and start gluing mounts to the brick lol.

I'm waiting to see that someone used double-stick tape or Velcro.
My mechanic told me, "I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder."
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