And to that if you are referring to ethernet performance you are 100% correct. However, that meter only verifies ethernet performance. The snap units don't operate on an ethernet protocol. It is a proprietary signal simply sent over the cat5/6 (hopefully shielded).

I call bullshit. Actually I'm not calling it I'm telling you it is.

There is no standard for cat5 twists per inch per pair. I have seen cat5 where the brown pair had the most twists per inch and I can say the same for all colors. Cat 5 works because each pair is at a different twist rate but there is no standard for the twist rate per color.

While I dont think it matters, but if they say to use 568B then that's what I'd do just to rule that out and get that out of the way as being a reason to place blame on your install. What I'd be more worried about is they do specifically recommend shielded cat5/6 and shielded ends. They also make it clear there should be no connecting blocks or couplers in the line. Have you adhered to both of those recommendations? And if not what happens when you string some shielded cat5/6 to test the system out?

that is complete bullshit. there is no way you have found the brown pair more twisted than the other pairs. the brown pair is the least twisted in cat5 wiring by a long shot.

It seems like the orange is usually less to me?.?

Regardless, data tests don't apply has the wire isn't being used for data, it's HDMi. Where you have a mix of signals and low/high speed rates, timing and many other things. The margin for error is much less.

What DVD/bluray is it? Can it be a Key issue?

It's an older DV450 DVD player

We used snap cat5 ends on cat6 shielded cable. They are a tight fit but were able to get the cable to map out properly. Our Snap distributor doesn't have stock on the cat6 shielded ends yet. Where else can you get these?

Huh.
First off there is no performance difference between 568A and 568B (Ethernet or HDMI) and while I can not speak for other Mfgr's, we only stipulate 568B in our HDBaseT products because if I don't spec something everybody will call asking which to use.

When this issue first popped up on the forums I searched and read every thing that I could find regarding performance differences between A/B.
While there was always a post saying one was better, there was never an actual reference to hard test data. Jeff B. and I have talked about this a number of times and as best as our testing/research can find (and Jeff has a very well equipped lab) this is all BS and hearsay.

Telling a dealer it is not working because he used "A" instead of "B" is in my opinion right up there with "really, that is the first time that we have ever heard of that problem". Now asking the dealer to re-terminate may in fact solve the problem. Not because of the color code but because hopefully the dealer paid more attention this time.

Now to the real meat of the issue.
568 (anything) is a poor choice for HDMI, the splitting of the pair (orange or green) around the middle sets up some troublesome timing issues. Dealing with those time problems correctly requires complex trace routing inside of a multilayer circuit board (read time/money) that the vast majority of companies will not spring for (Crestron does try to do it right). Note that the multilayer boards (required for HDMI) also create their own problems with impedance that can be mostly mitigated thru the use of VIA's (the small holes thru the circuit board).
The better way to run High Speed Digital Video/Audio (HDMI) over Cat/x is by keeping the pairs together.
First you will maintain a balanced (which HDMI is) and secondly by keeping the pairs together you will minimize the timing errors.

Last and NOT least: The brand/quality of your RJ45 terminals.
People I can not stress enough how important your termination is (regardless of termination color code), this is where the system failure is most likely to occur.
DO NOT use push thru style terminals (the cutting blade stretch's the wire from under the blades reducing bandwidth).
Replace your compression tool Die-Set on a regular basis.
It is recommended that you do not use Ideal brand terminals (there is too much slop).

Remember that the Ethernet Data is redundant (it will keep trying until it gets thru), HDMI data is ONE shot. If it ain't there TFB its over.

I've not used the B300's yet.  But used plenty of B210 product.  It states in the installation instructions (Resource Vault) for the B210 to use 568B.  Again, I've not seen the B300 yet, so I can only speak for troubleshooting the B210, but I'm sure they're similar. 

1. Make sure the HDMI jumper cables going from the balun to the TV and switch to the devices are less than 1 meter. I typically make sure I use Binary cables for these, since that's what they'd be testing with in their shop. 

2. 568B.  (I don't know why, don't care.  Just following the instructions)
Do not use EZ-RJ45's, and don't use any keystones on the wire.  They MUST be straight through.

3. If the DVD/BD has a deep color setting turn it OFF. 

4. Shielded Cat5/6.

5.  Slowly adjust the gain on the balun down or up as needed.  When the picture  dissapears, move it back to the last setting that you had stable picture at.  


These might not be your issue, but they've been my issue everytime.  Just trying to arm you with enough info so that you're not frustrated on-site.

Hi Gman,

I am sorry for the issues you are experiencing! I concur with Brent on the topic of A vs. B, there is a lot confusion and many times simply re-terminating solves the issues.

Your issues are either bandwidth related (ex: the DVD menu in 1080i works but video in 1080p does not) which could be due to terminations or length of cable –OR- the issues are EDID settings.

Please call Vernon (our Hardware QC Engineer) on Monday and we can mock up your system to solve your problem. We will need to know:

•Please confirm all model number sources and displays
•Which model Samsung TVs do you have?
•Which model DVD player?
•What inputs are your sources connected to?
•What outputs are your displays connected to?
•How long are your CAT5 runs?
•Is the CAT5 shielded?
•Are there any breaks in the CAT5 (wall plates, splices, etc)

We will get you going!

I would give the Crestron shielded ends a try. I believe the sku is dm8gconn.

But before you get those maybe try taking the drain of your shielded cat6 and attaching it to the chassis ground on the snap devices? That will get you close to the results of using the shielded cat6 ends.

Next...I'd swap the DVD out for a new model and see what happens and if still having issues use an ethereal DAD; not sure if snap has a device similar to that or not.

Sorry to hear about our problems...ain't hdmi fun !

From the B300 manual:
• To reduce video dropout problems from ceiling fans and other EMI issues, it is strongly recommended that shielded CAT5e/CAT6 and shielded RJ45 connectors are used with this extender product. “EZ end” connectors are not recommended for use with HDMI extenders.

This is all that it says regarding cable and termination, with nothing about using 568B vs A.

Now that is great response from a Mfgr. ( even if they are the competition) and ALL very good questions.
BTW: we have found that sometimes a longer HDMI cable between the source/matrix and the TX balun can improve the situation.

.7 meter Binary cables


Snap cat5 ends


Will check this

Will try this as well


Thanks man

I don't see the B300 manual in resource vault at all, unless I'm missing it.  The B-210 manual states the 568B connection thing, hopefully they'll make the adjustment in the manual so nobody has to deal with this again.