Don't just "put the TV on the shelf." It MUST be attached to the wall behind it in some way so that an earthquake, or a five year old pulling on it (same thing) won't make the TV fall forward.
On January 9, 2019 at 23:10, buzz said...
Another scheme would be to mount a couple two by fours between the shelf uprights and secure the mount to these. BE SURE TO SECURE THE CABINET TO THE WALL. Otherwise, it is likely to tip over when the TV is pulled out. Also, this scheme will allow the mount to be mounted at the best depth.
He means to mount hte 2x4s horizontally, I think. I did this once with a non-articulating mount and it was really hard to get the 2x4s positioned so the front of the TV was exactly where needed.
On January 10, 2019 at 02:56, pilgram said...
Grab a peice of 1/2" emt ,stick it in the hole,mark the length to the outer side of the back,cut it, and you have a custom spacer!
Be sure you've removed the drywall behind the cabinet so the EMT goes from bracket to stud. The motion of the articulated arm will grind the EMT into any drywall that's there, causing the whole mount to become loose. Secure but floppy, that is.
On January 10, 2019 at 09:04, drewski300 said...
Not to be a dick but I'm a little concerned that you are asking for advice. This is a pretty simple install.
All of us can work for years without encountering something that the rest of us find simple, that we've conquered long before. It's a simple install to you and to me, but the first time we did one, we had to think carefully, or maybe someone told us what to do.
-If it's 3/4" hardwood, use screws wherever you want. I would pre-drill the holes so that you have more thread bite. Don't use too large of a drill bit.
You should always drill pilot holes for lag screws! "Too large" should not be an issue because you should know something like this from
[Link: popularwoodworking.com].
First, drill a pilot hole through [the] boards. Pilot holes guarantee that your screw won't break off and your wood won't crack. For most hardwoods, the pilot hole should be at least as large as the screw's minor diameter. If the screw has deep threads, or the wood is very hard, the pilot hole should be another 1/64-in. [larger].
-If it's 3/4" particle board, I'd use 4 large toggles as well as 4 lags pre-drilling like above. Toggles
He means Togglers. Toggle Bolts are never to be used. Period.
will ensure the screws will never fall out. The only reason I wouldn't just use lags is that with any type of moisture, the MDF (or particle board) could swell and pull out over time. Ask me how I know...
Unfortunately, you didn't have someone telling you how to do this, telling you that MDF and particle board won't hold worth a damn on a lag bolt. NEVER depend on MDF or particle board to hold against a pull-out load.
-If it's 1/4" skin, you have to go back to a stud. If the cabinet is pulled away from the back wall, then you will have to find an alternative.
An alternative has been given, which is to make spacers so there's something solid from the back of the bracket all the way to the stud.
