I have a customer that wants to install an in-wall sub for his gym that was prewired but only has a coax ran to that location. I dont recall any in-wall sub having an amplifer at the sub. Any ideas? TIA

Is there power nearby? It sounds like someone else did the prewire and thought there was to be a normal (active) sub to be located there. Breakdown in communication, unfortunately now it's your problem to sort it out!

The customer can't be persauded to simply go with an active sub? I'm also guessing that pulling another cable will either be difficult at best, if not impossible?

Iain

What we have done on several occasions is taken a standard active sub (insert your fav. here) and flushed it into the wall with a press in grill. Here is a pic of what I mean before the painting of the wall. Once the painting is done it looks killer.

The company that prewired the job knew what equipment was being spec'd and just failed to prewire it with the proper cabling.

No to the first question and yes to the second. The room is a gym and they want nothing but the workout equipment on the floor.

I have read here that you can run speaker level over coax. Never personally done it, but search the forum, and you will get some hits, them make your own decision.

If you feel it will be OK, i'd use a Triad in-Wall Bronze with outboard rack amp.

I doubt you will find any "in-wall" subs with a powered in-wall amp, due to NEC and UL restrictions.

your looking for the mit tmax

[Link: mitcables.com]

Your the man, that is exactly what I was looking for! Have you ever had to use them?

What kind of coax? If it is decent stuff you could probably get away with using the center conductor for positive and the shield for negative, but be sure to check for shorts first.

CJ

mit recommends their rg59 or rg6 slver. silver clad copper.

MIT One Wire is not something you HAVE to use.

i didn't mean to imply you did. its just what they recommend. it should definately get him out of his bind

I have never used the MIT device and would like to hear from someone who has. Not having used it I would be skeptical that an 18 gage RG6 or worse a 20 gage RG9 would physically be able to handle the power needed for a sub. Even if it works temporally the resistance of that wire is going to greatly reduce the efficiency and life of the amp. Would this work?

[Link: middleatlantic.com]

You could mount the amp in one stud bay and the sub in the next stud bay over. Never done it but it could get you out of a tough spot.