Is it okay for me to mention that I have assembled a power inlet, and will do so for anyone who needs one? Check thread of same name in The Marketplace.

Dan, if this is a breach of protocol, please let me know, and I'll delete it forthwith. (or fifthwith, I can't remember)

Larry, I replied in your marketplace post on some stuff

Glack

Larry I like your solution. Just a comment. I think that you should use a twist and lock type of inlet so you don't take the risk of the power cord getting disconnected by accident. Do you thing that putting two of those in a dual gang box will be a problem?. I'm doing a job right now where I will need to get 3 in a dual gang version and like two in a single gang. See if it is feasible to have them done and also the twist and lock option and I'll be your first client.

FL, check the Marketplace thread.

Larry,

I'm afraid you've lost me on this one. Power inlets of the type you appear to be custom making that are pictured in the marketplace thread have been available for years from companies such as Pass & Seymour, Hubbel etc. Is there something unique about yours?

Do you know a Pass and Seymour part number ?

A quick search and I found these: 4715SS(outlet), 4716SS(inlet) at http://www.passandseymour.com/ under Products-residential Contractors-Turnlok & Locking Devices-3 Wire Grounding-15A, 125V-Flanged Inlets & Outlets.

Here is a pic. They also make the wall plates for them.



They make a variety of inlets. They are usually carried by the larger electrical distributors. I don't have the part numbers we use handy and their web site sucks so I don't feel like searching it at the moment :-) but I'll assume the links flcusat posted above will get you to the same ones.

Thanks

Only that it is mounted on a plastic (unbreakable nylon) single-gang plate that will mount to a single-gang box, and isn't metal with a flip-open rain cover.


I searched their entire plate PDF and couldn't find a suitable plate; one that will both accept the inlet and mount to a single-gang box. Can you find one?

Yes, it's 5278SS. Flu's are twist-locks.

For those of us that are not electricians how do you handle power inlets? Do you just spec the wire run on the pre-wire and supply the "parts" for the finish to the electrician?

How many of you just spec the outlet and drop a separate surge behind the tv, or is this primarily for projectors for a clean look? Or am am missing the point entirely?

Separate question Larry, how do you like the 30" angled extension? Thanks

1. Locate a regular outlet at the display.

2. Wire the outlet at the display back to an inlet located near your high-end surge protector/power conditioner or UPS. In addition to the advantage of having your display plugged into your power conditioner you are also now assured of having it on the same circuit which helps eliminate ground loops (not that you couldn't spec it that way for the electrician anyhow).

3. Now just use a standard extension cord and plug one end into the inlet and the other end into the surge protector/power conditioner/UPS and you have "clean" power at your display.

Of course you could also just use a surge protected outlet at the display or whatever but I think the above is the best solution.

Sorry, I should have made a better post... I understood the how, just wanted clarification on the benefits and whether a lot of folks were doing for all displays or not...

You make a great point about keeping on the same circuit as the rack to help avoid ground loop issues.

I guess my biggest question is, can I wire this or do I need the electrician to run for me?

Since it's high voltage you'd want the electrician to do it. I have just provided the electrician with the part numbers. To make it even easier you might want to just provide them the inlet part which is cheap. Most electricians have never heard of an inlet so you can always expect a blank stare.

I think it's worth doing for just about any display that's tied into an A/V system IF it's new construction. It doesn't cost any more to wire it this way versus putting in a conventional outlet.