Your Universal Remote Control Center
RemoteCentral.com
Custom Installers' Lounge Forum - View Post
Previous section Next section Previous page Next page Up level
Up level
The following page was printed from RemoteCentral.com:

Login:
Pass:
 
 

Page 1 of 2
Topic:
Where should I discuss this? Wiring with metal studs
This thread has 16 replies. Displaying posts 1 through 15.
Post 1 made on Saturday October 9, 2004 at 10:19
mzemina
Lurking Member
Joined:
Posts:
October 2004
7
I'm going to bid on a project where it is new construction and all the studs are metal. There are knockouts already in the studs but they are "kinda" rectangular but I cannot find any premade grommet to fit this strange looking hole.

If this is the wrong place to ask this question and if anyone has an URL to suggest a better place to ask I would appreciate passing that information on to me.

My question is two fold. First should I put in any grommet material to prevent cutting the cable when I pull it (assuming I can get the job). If I should be installing grommets on each stud, where should I be looking to find this material?

Mike Zemina
Post 2 made on Saturday October 9, 2004 at 10:54
Audible Solutionns
Super Member
Joined:
Posts:
March 2004
3,246
Greenlee makes a product for this situation. It will punch holes in the stud and you can then place a plastic gromet in that hole. You would be very wise not to run your wires through the existing holes in those studs. They can rip the insulation form your wires as you pull them through. Electrical supply has the tool. Describe what you want and they will understand.

Alan
"This is a Christian Country,Charlie,founded on Christian values...when you can't put a nativiy scene in front fire house at Christmas time in Nacogdoches Township, something's gone terribly wrong"
Post 3 made on Saturday October 9, 2004 at 13:13
Ernie Bornn-Gilman
Yes, That Ernie!
Joined:
Posts:
December 2001
30,104
Caddy also makes hangers that fit into the existing holes and keep wires from scraping, although the preferred method for running through these studs is to use flex. But that is not necessary by code for low voltage, so you are approaching this the right way. The Greenlee approach will probably be needed at some point, because framers do not always place the studs so the holes line up.
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
Post 4 made on Saturday October 9, 2004 at 17:49
2nd rick
Super Member
Joined:
Posts:
August 2002
4,521
You definitely want to use grommets with anything that's not in conduit or flex/bx.

I agree with EBG that you will invariably face a wall where the carpenters (or are they called metalworkers at that point??) will use the scraps for areas under windows, stairways, knee walls, etc. and the nice little knockouts that the manufacturer puts in aren't at the right height, or are on the piece that was cut off and already used. Any electrical supplier and/or the building materials supplier that provided the metal studs should have the right grommets.
Rick Murphy
Troy, MI
Post 5 made on Saturday October 9, 2004 at 18:32
deb1919
Founding Member
Joined:
Posts:
September 2001
344
Greenlee makes a step bit for holes up to 1-3/8" (catalog #36414) so you can put your holes anywhere. It costs about $50, but is worth every penny.

After drilling you can use their bushings (#711 or #712) or any plastic snap-in grommet. Making your own holes is such a convenience after the electricians have filled every existing hole with BX. You can buy Greenlee stuff at Home Depot, if you can tolerate the store.

[Link: 198.247.193.8]

[Link: 198.247.193.8]

[Link: mcm.newark.com]


- Doug @ HomeWorks
OP | Post 6 made on Sunday October 10, 2004 at 15:17
mzemina
Lurking Member
Joined:
Posts:
October 2004
7
On 10/09/04 17:13 ET, Ernie Bornn-Gilman said...
Caddy also makes hangers that fit into the existing
holes and keep wires from scraping, although the
preferred method for running through these studs
is to use flex. But that is not necessary by
code for low voltage, so you are approaching this
the right way. The Greenlee approach will probably
be needed at some point, because framers do not
always place the studs so the holes line up.

Ernie,
Can you provide more info on the Caddy hangers?
Mike
OP | Post 7 made on Sunday October 10, 2004 at 16:00
mzemina
Lurking Member
Joined:
Posts:
October 2004
7
On 10/09/04 14:54 ET, Audible Solutionns said...
Greenlee makes a product for this situation.
It will punch holes in the stud and you can then
place a plastic gromet in that hole.

Yeah - I saw that. It would be a pain to manually punch holes in over a hundred metal studs though. I was hoping someone would know of a manufacturer and place I could buy grommet for these wierd rectangular punchouts. But from the sound of it there may not be.

Thanks for the info.

Mike
Post 8 made on Sunday October 10, 2004 at 21:05
Larry Fine
Loyal Member
Joined:
Posts:
August 2001
5,002
Mike, the standard steel-stud snap-in grommets work just fine in the factory keyhole knockouts. Here are a few pictures of these grommets in place:


[Link: content.ll-0.com]
[Link: content.ll-0.com]
Post 9 made on Monday October 11, 2004 at 09:49
mr2channel
Select Member
Joined:
Posts:
August 2002
1,701
Good luck, I have done several jobs with metal studs, and they are a pain in the as*, I would suggest bumping up your labor rates and/or plan on a little more time on the job.
What part of "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed." do you not understand?
Post 10 made on Monday October 11, 2004 at 10:28
Stew Pidasso
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
September 2003
322
I do many commercial jobs, most of which have steel studs.

I think that steel studs are much easier to work with than wood. There are no fire-blocks and you usually don't have to drill. Simply snapping plastic grommets into the holes is usually all you have to do to have a big hole to run wires. If you need more holes, you can use a punch (about $200.00) that will puch a 1 3/4" hole in about 2 seconds. If you can't get your punch to fit in the place you want a hole, you can use a 1 3/4" hole saw and drill through in about 15 seconds. It is very easy. Compare that to drilling equivelent size holes through wood studs, top-plates, posts, fire-blocks, and joists. We can wire 20 data runs, 20 phone runs, 15 speakers, and an elaborate network of audio/video wiring in one day with two guys (and they aren't even working that fast). This is one reason that I like commercial better than residential.

The only bad thing is that you can cut your hand on the metal if you are not careful, so wear golves.

If you see metal studs, be glad.
OP | Post 11 made on Monday October 11, 2004 at 10:36
mzemina
Lurking Member
Joined:
Posts:
October 2004
7
Larry, Thanks for the pictures. Yes the keyhole punchout is what I am dealing with and am having a hard time finding grommets. Maybe I am asking the wrong distributors. Can you provide any details to the vendor and I can have the distributor order for me?

The keyhole I am dealing with looks like this:
[img] [\img]


Mike

This message was edited by mzemina on 10/11/04 10:43 ET.
Post 12 made on Monday October 11, 2004 at 11:35
bcf1963
Super Member
Joined:
Posts:
September 2004
2,767
Mzemina,

Remember that just because the hole is shaped like a keyhole, the grommet doesn't have to be. The rubber and plastic grommets are flexible! You just need to get a grommet with the correct circumference for the rectangular opening you have.

I suggest ignoring the small part of the keyhole, and only use the top rectangular portion from your drawing.

You can calculate the circumference of the rectangular opening using:
L = Length, W = Width
( 2 * L ) + (2 * W ) = Circumference

You can calculate the equivalent size round grommet to buy from:
C = Circumference, D = Diameter or Round Grommet, Pi = 3.1416
D = C / Pi
or
D = [ ( 2 * L ) + (2 * W ) ] / Pi

I've run wire in metal studs, and I also much prefer it. Really simple to pop out knockouts, and pop in grommets. The metal studs I used had some many knockouts available, that I never had to cut a hole!

Happy Pulling!

Went and did a quick google search and found this:
[Link: outwater.com]
You'd just have to cut to lenth for your hole. I'm sure other possibilities are out there.

This message was edited by bcf1963 on 10/11/04 12:22 ET.
Post 13 made on Monday October 11, 2004 at 13:46
Larry Fine
Loyal Member
Joined:
Posts:
August 2001
5,002
No, BCF, those aren't approved for this kind of work.

Mike, go to any nearby electrical supply house (ask an electrician). This is a common item. Local home hardware stores might even carry them.
Post 14 made on Monday October 11, 2004 at 14:47
bcf1963
Super Member
Joined:
Posts:
September 2004
2,767
On 10/11/04 17:46 ET, Larry Fine said...
No, BCF, those aren't approved for this kind of
work.

Why do you think that? They are Mil Std 21266. The standard covers flammability and abrasion resistance. These are actually manufactured for use in running wiring bundles through bulkheads and ribs in aircraft. You think running a wire bundle through a metal stud in a stationary house is a tougher application than an aircraft?
Post 15 made on Tuesday October 12, 2004 at 12:30
GG/AV
Lurking Member
Joined:
Posts:
March 2004
9
mzemina

Great timing, I'm in the same boat with an upcoming job.

Larry, Doug, Alan thanks for the ideas and the links
Page 1 of 2


Jump to


Protected Feature Before you can reply to a message...
You must first register for a Remote Central user account - it's fast and free! Or, if you already have an account, please login now.

Please read the following: Unsolicited commercial advertisements are absolutely not permitted on this forum. Other private buy & sell messages should be posted to our Marketplace. For information on how to advertise your service or product click here. Remote Central reserves the right to remove or modify any post that is deemed inappropriate.

Hosting Services by ipHouse