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Topic:
question on how to keep mini-flashers to stay on components
This thread has 32 replies. Displaying posts 16 through 30.
Post 16 made on Saturday July 17, 2004 at 18:47
JBJ SYSTEMS
Advanced Member
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859
use Xantech - their adhesive is much better than niles or others - haven't had problems with Xantech
Tact is for people who aren't witty enough to be sarcastic!
Post 17 made on Saturday July 17, 2004 at 23:39
Larry Fine
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I would imagine the ticket is to drill a 1/4" hole on the rear panel and mount a 1/8" phone jack wired to the emitter, so standard cables can be used. Anyone?

Larry
www.fineelectricco.com
Post 18 made on Sunday July 18, 2004 at 11:04
diesel
Senior Member
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1,177
Great idea, but better yet, force the manufacturers to put the 1/8" mini in at the factory and NOT use proprietary data in.
Post 19 made on Monday July 19, 2004 at 02:33
RTI Installer
Super Member
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3,320
How many times do I have to say this!
I have done at least a thousand emitters. A tiny dot of hot glue works the best. It does not damage anything, its fast, cheep and it’s strong. Best of all it comes off if need be. An extra bonus is you can crack open the emitter shells of several emitters and glue them together into one large emitter, this works great where for instance you have a Tivo emitter and an emitter coming from a connecting block going to a cable box.
Never Ignore the Obvious -- H. David Gray
Post 20 made on Tuesday July 20, 2004 at 17:03
Ernie Bornn-Gilman
Yes, That Ernie!
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On 07/17/04 23:39, Larry Fine said...
I would imagine the ticket is to drill a 1/4"
hole on the rear panel and mount a 1/8" phone
jack wired to the emitter, so standard cables
can be used. Anyone?

If you do this, be sure to use Xantech. Or check to be sure that the ( - )connector on the IR has zero resitance from each LED to the others. Niles has introduced new IR boxes, so this might be fixed, but their old boxes were wired in such a way that the ( - ) of each LED had a transistor between it and ground...or something else...which meant that if you connected those minuses together, either the LEDs would come on at full voltage and stay on, or would get too much current. Using 1/8" jacks in two or more components would short the grounds together. In this case, that might even put IR current on audio ground leads!
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
Post 21 made on Tuesday July 20, 2004 at 20:40
Larry Fine
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On 07/20/04 17:03, Ernie Bornn-Gilman said...
If you do this, be sure to use Xantech. Or check
to be sure that the ( - )connector on the IR has
zero resitance from each LED to the others. Niles
has introduced new IR boxes, so this might be
fixed, but their old boxes were wired in such
a way that the ( - ) of each LED had a transistor
between it and ground...or something else...which
meant that if you connected those minuses together,
either the LEDs would come on at full voltage
and stay on, or would get too much current. Using
1/8" jacks in two or more components would short
the grounds together. In this case, that might
even put IR current on audio ground leads!

Excellent point!

Okay everyone, make sure you use isolated-ground jacks, and/or 3-wire (stereo) jacks and custom-assembled wires that don't use the ground.

Larry
www.fineelectricco.com
Post 22 made on Wednesday July 21, 2004 at 11:59
teknobeam1
Active Member
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626
It's time that manufacturers offered a dedicated IR input. It could be designed in such a way as to allow for different wiring protocols by means of dip switches perhaps. Maybe many have reisted doing this because there is the potential to fry the IR system if wired incorrectly. I'm sure they can come up with a bullet proof method of accomodating hardwired IR signals. It would make thing a lot easier, and a lot les cluttered, not to mention more reliable.
Post 23 made on Wednesday July 21, 2004 at 19:53
Larry Fine
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It seems to me that, if power supplies can accept 100 to 250 volts, there should be a way to make remote-cabled inputs universal, other than the actual protocol, of course. I'm talking about voltage/polarity parameters.

Larry
www.fineelectricco.com
Post 24 made on Thursday July 22, 2004 at 00:41
teknobeam1
Active Member
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May 2004
626
Maybe a built in diode tester chip that identifies the polarity and a circuit that identifies any DC voltage
Post 25 made on Tuesday February 14, 2006 at 15:28
babyrocket
Long Time Member
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28
I'll second the glue gun suggestion. It's quick, easy, doesn't come off and can be removed easily if you need to.
Post 26 made on Tuesday February 14, 2006 at 17:33
avophiliac
Long Time Member
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141
Well all right then, hot glue gun it is!

Thanks for helping to sort that out.
Post 27 made on Wednesday February 15, 2006 at 00:35
Mr. Stanley
Elite Member
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16,954
On July 16, 2004 at 00:33, andrewinboulder said...
Seems like over time, mini-flashers stuck on the
front of components always droop and fall off.
Tape seems to come off also. Anyone have a way
they keep mini-flashers from falling off the face
of components?

Thanks!

Put a little Gorilla Label on next to the Faceplate...
"Housecleaner"...Please do not knock this little plastic thing off when you are dusting!!!
(might need to do it in espanol also)?
"If it keeps up, man will atrophy all his limbs but the push-button finger."
Frank Lloyd Wright
Post 28 made on Wednesday February 15, 2006 at 04:21
Steve Garn
Senior Member
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1,319
oop. sorry. nevermind.

Last edited by Steve Garn on February 15, 2006 19:36.
Manuals?! We don't need no stinking manuals! a.. er..
Post 29 made on Wednesday February 15, 2006 at 07:17
djnorm
Founding Member
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1,693
In Mr. Stanley's defense, this time it was someone else...
Post 30 made on Wednesday February 15, 2006 at 14:37
Munson
Long Time Member
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499
,

Last edited by Munson on December 28, 2006 20:22.
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