Seems like over time, mini-flashers stuck on the front of components always droop and fall off. Tape seems to come off also. Anyone have a way they keep mini-flashers from falling off the face of components?

Thanks!

try using a little clear silicon. some guys use super glue, but try to remove the emitter for service. good luck....

I would use a Xantech Emitter shield.

I have seen people remove the surrounding red housing of the emmiter and dissasemble the piece of equipment being controlled to acces the IR reciever behind the plastic window. Then they run the IR cable inside the piece of equipment and re assemble it

Super Glue AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHH!

Just use hot glue, it works great and comes off if need be

So,I guess I'm the only one using 10p nails.
Maybe that's why I'm having reception problems!

;>

Yeah, it's got to be finish nails. Just keep the compressor set below 90psi.

I prefer electrical staples. (What else?)

Duct Tape Anyone??

Yesterday, I just replaced a piece of Vantage control wiring that had three nails shot through it. From the Front side! That means the idiot laid the Nail gun on the wire and shot through to try and hold a 2x4 he didn't fasten correctly in the first place. Lucky, he wasn't there or I would have wrapped that wire around his neck! Probably could have went to jail that day.
Back to the IR thing. Please don't use super glue. that stuff is usually only good for coffee mugs and college pranks. High temp hot melt glue and/or prep the surface well with non-amonia cleaner.
Our business does not place the IR emitter in the equipment to avoid Warranty issues, but this may change. Some equipment, if cheap enough, is not worth the effort in warranty because of the labor cost involved and would be replaced.

Two tips, unless there is a disc tray or something above the eye, always try to come down from the top, with a thin strip of black gaffers tape on the top panel (or any type if you're behind a RSH rack face) to hold the lead in place.
Gravity helps out this way, but still make sure the lead isn't twisted. The worse thing is that the adhesive might let go and it might twist and fire the wrong way.
Also, you might want to one of the little alcohol wipes like KFC and Mobil gives away to get the grease and film residues off before you try to stick on the emitter. The girls at Mobil must wonder what the hell I do with all of those wipes I take every time I stop for gas.

I remember back in 1999 I suggested to David Birch-Jones at Denon that they put a 2nd IR receiver on the back of their lower end models with a little screw down tab to keep an emitter in place over the eye.

I was initially asking to have IR ports on more models and got a stern lesson on the additional cost of adding board level interface to facilitate 1/8" IR ports, blah, blah... So, I suggested duplicating the existing IR reciever on the back panel where I can fix it securely and avoid the goofy looking bugs on the front of my racks where I can't use $2K plus receivers.

That was the same coversation where he told me that they didn't use F connectors on models below $2K because the dumb push on antenna connector was a world standard.
I asked if Europe and Asia got models that used US line voltage and tuned the US radio frequencies or if they got models that tuned their own frequencies wired for thier seperate power systems (I thought it was a valid question, who knew they have multiple taps on a universal transformer and multiple tuning frequencies that they set by software??)

Now they use F connectors on the 2803 and up and a lot of them have IR ports and even serial connectors, so obviously they were tired of listening to all of us asking similar dumb questions.

This message was edited by 2nd rick on 07/16/04 14:01.

We place the IR inside of the equipment. We have had a couple pieces that needed servicing, we just sent them with the eye inside. The techs just note that the equipment had been "modified", but since the eyes had nothing to do withe the problem everything was fine.

To make things easier to put in and take out, we use molex connectors for the splice.

Diesel-

I am interested to know what manufacturer was kind enough to overlook the "modification" to the equipment. Typically manufacturers look for any cheap way (no matter how silly) out of any kind of warranty repair work.

Yamaha and Denon both have serviced equipment that had eyes in them and maintained the warranty.

Remove the "bug", rubber cement the emitter (easy to remove if need be).

Inside the face of the receiver is nice and neat. No funky little wires hanging out in front of that nice $4000.00 piece of equipment you sold (hopefully).