The RTI processors are fully routable. The RP6 has 6 independant outputs and 1 high output (all out). The 6 outputs can be Ir or RS232. YOu can do pretty much anyhting you want with this setup. The new XP8 processor just adds more outputs today, but with the possible ability to do two way communication sometime dwon the line.

Most amusing 46 million gbp turnover company that markets to inexperienced installers...

Pray why would a Nevo Sl be on anyones avoid list its IR range and power is unreal.... I agree the wi-fi is crap but that wasnt what was requested...

Or have you never used one and therefore dont have a clue what your talking about ?

7 is the magic number for me on this project!

Boo! - do they do an rp8? ;)


2 way comms sounds very interesting... look forward to that...

Well you use the 6 routable ports and the 1 all out port. That makes 7. Maybe I was confusing. You can still route any or all devices to the high output port, so in effect it works like any other port. If your devices are not using the same IR codes, then you can put them all on the high out if you want, its all configurable in the programming.

well that sounds perfect then?

it sounds like i can get RF signals, maybe having to use repeaters cos of thick walls, back to the rack and i can also break ir out to 7 sources..

and this is switched/routable?

trev

You don't need 7 routable ports. You only need routable ports for like devices (multiple sat boxes that require same codes.) If you need more than 6 ports, then you can just use an IR connecting block to send to extra equipment that are not the same as others.

very true.

as all the sources are diff so i could possilbly need only 1 port and a the necessary connector blocks and transmitter eyes.

seem a little bit of a limitation though having been used to the smart-e panel....but if it works and is stable...im up for it

trev

Agreed, There you have it! Problem solved!

you will need an RF extender for each Harmony 1000, 1 Xantech CB18 IR distribution strip, 1 Xantech 791-44 connecting block, 1 Xantech 781-RG power supply, a few mouse emitters and your good to go.

I also agree that if you are looking for a whole house solution other than the use of multiple RF extenders then you should call Trent.

Either way your problem is not an uncommon one and is easily solved. You can PM me for my number or call Trent at Audio Authority for the details on either solution.

I should also add the use of a diode part number 1N4148D on each IR line between the CB-18 and connecting block to prevent lockup. these are about 15 ea. at radio shack.

Sorry, me again.

Remember i mentioned right back in the beginning that i thought it was IR blatting the system and stopping the genuine signals getting back through the smart-e panel..?

Also, remember i mentioned a thread i started in a physics forum...

read this.. it's quite interesting..

i quote:

"All Infrared communications use an infrared source wich is switched on and off with an intermediate frequency, roughly 100 Khz for remote controls, higher for faster communication. The resulting IR, amplitude modulated by an intermediate frequency is then switched on and off much slower to get the signals of the remote across.
The resulting signal can be picked up by a receiver with a phase locked loop, that isn't very sensitive to wich intermediate frequency it picks up, because 100 Khz modulated IR doesn't occur in nature.
I think the problem occurs because the backlight of the LCD panel is run of a switched power supply that produces flicker at a frequency that the infrared receiver picks up. The exact frequency of visible and near-infrared light that is sent out isn't relevant."

So, does the smart-e IR system use a Phase Lock Loop and do the back lights in LCDs run on "switched power supplies"?

hmmm....

trev

Trever, You're reading too much into it. Its an easy fix.

BT is also pretty big and does well out of hooking people up with bb routers and voip phones they don't know how to use....

Look, if you get on well with them - great. I believe in 'speaking as I find' and when I find that a company I deal with doesn't have my interests at heart or lies to me or messes me about then I find that I will avoid them. Many other owners/installers have told me the same.


Once again, my experience. If you have done well with them good for you. I have seen a few crummy installs using them where control was rubbish, embarrasing even. Could have been down to programming perhaps. I would rather wait until the product has been around for a while longer.


Don't get offensive, please.

Why do you care? Are you going to redesign the smart-e IR system for them? Are you planning on going to the LCD manufacturer and tell them they should not use switching power supplies?

I'm curious why your wasting your time in understanding the physics of IR when you apparently should be focusing your efforts in the methodology (good word..lol) of a solid control system. Not trying to be a prick here. Just really confused on your approach to saving your company.

Dwell,

I was the first one to recommend a complete switchout of your remotes and distribution system. If it were my job I would not have gotten into this situation, since I wouldn't have put the Harmony's in there in the first place...

However, in my current position where I am working for someone else, instead of for myself, I have the unfortunate experience of using Harmony remotes with the wireless extender. I have found that the 1000 is fairly easy to set up with the wireless extenders (vs. the 890 where I have had multiple problems). Your easiest and cheapest fix, without re-inventing the IR spectrum, would be to put in a Harmony remote extender at each station (8 I believe you said). This would be especially easy since you have already programmed the Harmony 1000's. You would need to put an extender at each place where you have an existing receiver and relay the IR from the exender to your Matrix switcher. I assume you can figure out how to wire this...

This would be the quickest way for you to get paid. Just make sure that you remember the problems you had when you spec the next job so that you don't wind up in a situation where you have to worry about if your design will, or will not, work again. Look into good control solutions that are out there and move away from the things that you can't make money on.

John

Whitevan and jritch...

can i just check something please?

when/if i convert to Harmony RF using the 1000s - will i get enough range for the distance back to the rack i am wondering? this house is quite large and has limestone walls up to 18 inches thick in some place.

in the worst place the signal will have to travel approx 40m and through about 5 walls on it's way back to the rack...

also, im a little worried about the Harmonies as a few people have recently described them as "toys". it would save money if they do work and i dont have to replace everything with URC/RTI.

thanks

trev