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Topic:
Equipment Rack Do's, Don'ts and Best Practices
This thread has 36 replies. Displaying posts 16 through 30.
Post 16 made on Wednesday January 9, 2008 at 12:17
Overcast5
Long Time Member
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31
Use siamese only in pairs, anything more takes up too much space in your bundles. In other words no component multiple connectors, but stereo multiples are fine.
OP | Post 17 made on Wednesday January 9, 2008 at 12:48
ds53652
Long Time Member
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207
On January 9, 2008 at 12:17, Overcast5 said...
Use siamese only in pairs, anything more takes up too
much space in your bundles. In other words no component
multiple connectors, but stereo multiples are fine.

Thnx Overcast5 for this and your previous post...much appreciated!
Post 18 made on Wednesday January 9, 2008 at 13:12
stereoman4
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I may be wrong, but I think MA has a download on their site that will help you design your rack and help you in choosing what you need with your rack.
www.goinnovativeaudiovisual.com
Cedia certified installer
ISF Certified 'It's not how many times you get knocked down but it's how many times you get back up and go forward"
Post 19 made on Wednesday January 9, 2008 at 17:50
rdlink
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64
On January 9, 2008 at 06:22, ejfiii said...
Put as many vent panels in as you can, don't put any fans
at the top and bottom and don't label any wires. I also
wouldn't worry about wire management or power management
on your first one. Just get it done and move on. Oh,
and lots of wire ties - every 1/4 inch use another to
be safe.

There you are!! I was looking for the guy who built out my server room.
Post 20 made on Wednesday January 9, 2008 at 19:56
tgrugett
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1,850
A few things I usually do depending on the type of rack and access...

Horizontal lacer bars even with shelf/component bottoms. This allows you to fasten wires above or below the vertical profile of the gear and keep good visual access to the back of the gear and it looks cleaner when you are done.

Velcro, Velcro, Velcro...

I start with power cords (especially if not custom lengthed) on one side and work them into a bundle starting with the device furthest from the power distribution hub (more applicable to rack mounted solutions rather than vertical power). I try and avoid big lumps of bundled power cords so I double back the extra length one at a time somewhere in the vertical bundle using long lengths to distribute the bulk.

I usually configure the rack interconnects first (I highly recommend cunstom lengths) and then bring in a bulk trunk and trim to required lengths after I establish the trunk length required and fasten the first several connection points (I usually zip tie this for strength).

Just for some perspective, I do many of the slide out and rotating racks under the 24 space size into residential custom millwork so my methods are geared toward these.
Post 21 made on Wednesday January 9, 2008 at 20:28
ejfiii
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On January 9, 2008 at 17:50, rdlink said...
There you are!! I was looking for the guy who built out
my server room.

LOL! Touche!

I think you're the only guy that knew I had my tongue firmly planted in my cheek.
OP | Post 22 made on Wednesday January 9, 2008 at 21:35
ds53652
Long Time Member
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207
On January 9, 2008 at 06:22, ejfiii said...
Put as many vent panels in as you can, don't put any fans
at the top and bottom and don't label any wires. I also
wouldn't worry about wire management or power management
on your first one. Just get it done and move on. Oh,
and lots of wire ties - every 1/4 inch use another to
be safe.

I got it ejfiii and got a good chuckle out of it.... : )
OP | Post 23 made on Wednesday January 9, 2008 at 21:49
ds53652
Long Time Member
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Posts:
December 2007
207
On January 9, 2008 at 19:56, tgrugett said...
Horizontal lacer bars even with shelf/component bottoms.
This allows you to...

I start with power cords (especially if not custom lengthed)
on one side and work them...

I usually configure the rack interconnects first (I highly
recommend cunstom lengths) and then bring in a bulk...

Awesome stuff tgrugett...thank you!

I do plan on using lacer bars even with the components with RSHs.

Power cord info....VERY HELPFUL as I don't have customed length and I will be using rack mount power distribution.

Good stuff on the interconnect and trunk trimming as well. Question for you if I may... In this configuration of mine, the external (trunk) cables will be entering from the top of the cabinet. Would you start at the bottom and work your way back up or start at the top of the rack and work your way down with the external/trunk cabling termination and connecting? The majority of this is rg6, component video, 14/4 speaker and cat5e.

Thanks again Sir!
Post 24 made on Wednesday January 9, 2008 at 21:54
BNC-RCA-RG59
Long Time Member
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November 2002
314
Try putting all the amps on the bottom to so it doesn't get top heavy.

All the cable/sat boxes at the top becuase they don't need to be touched.

Don't forget line condtioners, voltage stabilizer, and back up batteries.

Custom make all the cables so there isn't any bunches of wires.

Don't cut any tie wraps till the end or you will get cut or use velcro.

BNC
DON'T BE FRUSTRATED, GET INTEGRATED! (From a custom installer)
Post 25 made on Wednesday January 9, 2008 at 22:36
ejfiii
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2,021
Okay, since you passed the test here is the tip I wish someone had told me before I built my first racks and had to learn it on my own.

Get two MA vertical power strips and mount one on each side inside the rack. Mount one 'upside down' compared to the other. Now put your big honking UPS at the bottom and a power conditioner of your choosing at the top. Plug each of the vertical strips into the PC/UPS its closest to. Now you have either a UPS or conditioned outlet about 12 inches from every piece of equipment. Search online for 12, 24 and 36 inch IEC power cords and buy a box of each. Now use these IEC cords to power each piece of equipment.

No power cords to manage.

Good luck.

Oh, and re-read the MA white paper on ventilation and follow it to a T. I often add an UQFP at the bottom with the 4 fans reversed blowing in which are combined with the fans at the top to get a lot of air moving up and out through the rack.

EDIT: here are some pics of a job we just about completed. You should be able to see the vertical power strips inside the racks and the fan panels at the bottom of each one. [Link: gallery.mac.com]

Last edited by ejfiii on January 10, 2008 06:07.
Post 26 made on Thursday January 10, 2008 at 09:09
BNC-RCA-RG59
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
November 2002
314
By looking at those fine pictures, I'm going to assume you are the only guy at your firm that knows what is going on. When another one of the guys tries to do Crestron can't make it look that good, then you get to go back to finish it up all over again, right?

BNC
DON'T BE FRUSTRATED, GET INTEGRATED! (From a custom installer)
Post 27 made on Thursday January 10, 2008 at 10:15
Dawn Gordon Luks
Founding Member
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1,178
On January 9, 2008 at 22:36, ejfiii said...
Okay, since you passed the test here is the tip I wish
someone had told me before I built my first racks and
had to learn it on my own.

Get two MA vertical power strips and mount one on each
side inside the rack. Mount one 'upside down' compared
to the other. Now put your big honking UPS at the bottom
and a power conditioner of your choosing at the top.
Plug each of the vertical strips into the PC/UPS its
closest to. Now you have either a UPS or conditioned
outlet about 12 inches from every piece of equipment.
Search online for 12, 24 and 36 inch IEC power cords
and buy a box of each. Now use these IEC cords to power
each piece of equipment.

No power cords to manage.

Good luck.

Oh, and re-read the MA white paper on ventilation and
follow it to a T. I often add an UQFP at the bottom with
the 4 fans reversed blowing in which are combined with
the fans at the top to get a lot of air moving up and
out through the rack.

EDIT: here are some pics of a job we just about completed.
You should be able to see the vertical power strips inside
the racks and the fan panels at the bottom of each one.
[Link: gallery.mac.com]

Where do you buy your power cords?
Post 28 made on Thursday January 10, 2008 at 10:21
Overcast5
Long Time Member
Joined:
Posts:
January 2007
31
As far as getting cut, use flush cuts if you use zip ties. Make sure the tails are cut clean otherwise you'll look like 10 cats attacked you when you're done. These are pretty cheap and save you a lot of pain (and blood).
Post 29 made on Thursday January 10, 2008 at 11:58
tgrugett
Select Member
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Posts:
August 2004
1,850
On January 9, 2008 at 21:49, ds53652 said...
Awesome stuff tgrugett...thank you!

I do plan on using lacer bars even with the components
with RSHs.


Power cord info....VERY HELPFUL as I don't have customed
length and I will be using rack mount power distribution.


Good stuff on the interconnect and trunk trimming as well.
Question for you if I may... In this configuration
of mine, the external (trunk) cables will be entering
from the top of the cabinet. Would you start at the
bottom and work your way back up or start at the top of
the rack and work your way down with the external/trunk
cabling termination and connecting? The majority of
this is rg6, component video, 14/4 speaker and cat5e.

Your question really depends on what type of rack and what the access is. If it is a fixed rack then I imagine you should just come from the top down. If the rack rolls or slides out then you need to allow for the travel of the rack and it would be dependent on the scenario. for moveable racks I always run it in and out to first visualize the pattern of travel. Keep in mind that with a big bundle (especially with RG) the feeder trunk can be stiff and heavy so do not secure it to the rack directly in line with the demarcation point (talking moveable rack here) or the bundle will lay over on itself.

That said, if you have a big ass rack or multiples, I would take efjiii's comments to heart... by those pics he seems to have his stuff down. if you are doing smaller moveable racks, here are some samples.... sorry I do not have more photos of the backs.













Post 30 made on Thursday January 10, 2008 at 18:06
Vincent Delpino
Select Member
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Posts:
September 2004
1,818
To make them look best from the front dont buy rack mountable gear. Put everything on a custom shelf, then use the trim strip to hide the screws. Makes for a uniform rack!
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