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No! Don't do that!

The only reason the keypad worked is because you had something plugged into the receptacle.

Here's what you had before you messed with it:

In the receptacle's box, the incoming (neutral) is connected to the receptacle as usual, but the incoming black (hot) is connected to the switch loop's white*, and the switch loop's black (switched hot) returns to control the receptacle.

* (This is done so the receptacle (or fixture) doesn't have two whites connected to it.)

I suggest you do this: Replace the keypad with one that doesn't have a built-in dimmer (save it for another use), replace the receptacle with an X-10 unit (or use a dimmer module), and re-wire behind the receptacle so the switch's black and white are normal hot and neutral.

(I would also leave a message somewhere (Sharpied on the back of the plate, maybe, or on a note in a baggie inside the box) that the switch box now contains a hot and neutral, and a standard switch should NOT be used.)

The other option would be to replace the 2-conductor cable with a 3-conductor cable, in which case you would still re-wire so the black and white are hot and neutral, and the red would be the returning switched hot.

Hope this was helpful.

Larry
www.fineelectricco.com