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Original thread:
Post 13 made on Thursday January 17, 2019 at 18:16
davidcasemore
Super Member
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January 2003
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On January 17, 2019 at 12:24, tca said...
I found a KB article from Control4 that said we can use this:

[Link: amazon.com]

The only thing is I'm not sure if the fireplace is 12v or 24v. I wonder why the relay would not work with 12v?

Also, could it be placed right in the electrical box if there is room? It's a double gang.

The fireplace "voltage" is not relevant!! It just needs a simple dry contact closure. You know, touch the two wires together and we have FLAMES. Pull the two wires apart you have FLAME OUT.

So what is needed is a relay or any device with a contact closure output - Form "A" or Form "C" will work. How you trigger that contact closure will be based upon the control device, as will the voltage of the Coil in the relay.

With Lutron you could use the Pow-Pak or with HWQS you could use a QSE-IO. There are also processors from AMX, Crestron, URC and others which have dry contact outputs on them. I don't go anywhere near C4 so I don't know what products they have. The issue with using a 120 volt "smart" switch to power a relay with a 120 volt coil is, as mentioned above by others, where do you hide the relay? You could use a two-gang box with a divider and a 1/2 blank cover plate (not very classy).

Perhaps the fireplace location backs up to a garage? Perhaps there is an unfinished basement or crawlspace underneath?

I always ran a 2-conductor wire from the fireplace box to the mechanical room. Until one day - also mentioned earlier -out came the RF remote option from the fireplace manufacturers which the homeowner thought he needed for his "Smart Home" when in fact it just screwed everything up.
Fins: Still Slamming' His Trunk on pilgrim's Small Weenie - One Trunk at a Time!


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