On September 22, 2016 at 10:39, Ernie Gilman said...
Mac, I think he means a screen that is solid pink.
I've never seen a connector break off. "No stress"? That's hard to believe.
This tells me that Mac doesn't allow this kind of situation. From what I've seen of photos he has provided, he's in control of the mounting situation. Few of us are.
Bingo.
This is really pretty stupid. First, there's a HUGE base of cables connected per 568; second, everyone who uses CAT cable is used to connecting that way; third, if wire length has anything to do with the connection layout choice, that choice won't give consistent results because nothing about the pair twist spec says which colors should get which amount of twist. It only says* that crosstalk should be minimized and the manufacturers do that by using different twist rates, choosing which colors get which amount of twist.
Traces? You mean PC board traces? How is this addressed OTHER than internally?
And this shows part of the problem with HDMI: when it doesn't work, all the possible causes are present with every failure. Does it maybe have a bad crimp connection? Lop off the one you've got an make a new one, which is now a new place that might be bad in exactly the same way.
Experience says you were lucky.
*no, I have not read the spec. I'm sort of in the position of a 12th century Catholic trying to talk about Christianity: I've heard talk from those who can read the information, and all I can do is extrapolate from that.
I wrote 'almost no stress'- it took so little I was amazed. The metal shell basically fell off and the plastic at the center wasn't able to handle the bending force, so that broke, too. It was a Monster, too. What a shock. No, really.
I avoid stressing cables when I know they won't survive it, so I bundle them in the position they need at the rear panel and if necessary, I use something to maintain that position, almost like a cable comb. If the piece of equipment is moved, the cables go with it without moving between the jacks and the point where they diverge. If the shelf isn't deep enough, I make sure to prevent lifting the HDMI cable (or pressing downward) because that direction is where it's most fragile.
I didn't know it didn't use 568 until I had it for too long to return it (thanks, ADI!). WRT traces, yes, circuit board traces and they can easily make them as long as needed by using plated feed-throughs and continuing the circuit on a double-sided board. I was told the colors are in adjacent pairs because the path length is supposed to be equal and I told them they were doing it in a way that's ridiculous. I had re-terminated both ends and since the source end is next to a network switch that was connected to the router, I did a speed test from the TV end and it came through without any problem.
I still have the Spectrum extender- wanna try it? I don't. Once I had success with the one from SnapAV, I moved on to the rest of the project and as I wrote, I have had zero problems with it since that time. Lucky? No, I know how to terminate cables. If one piece doesn't work and the other one does, it's defective or badly designed. In addition, the Snap piece only uses one Cat5e, where the other used two. Not impressed with Spectrum.
