On January 15, 2016 at 02:09, drewski300 said...
You guys all have the tools to monitor RF spectrum, HDMI connectivity, network connectivity, etc, etc, etc. Go buy a meter with an amp clamp.... Pull the switch out of the wall, turn it on, and clamp the meter around the load wire with the switch turned on.
Yay! My thoughts EXACTLY. Hell, on this theory, and after hearing a ground noise seminar, I went out and bought a clamp-on meter that reads AC current down to milliamps... come on, you've GOT to have a clamp-on if you're doing anything professional with electricity!If the running amps are over 8, you should figure out a different solution (like the contactor mentioned). The switch will heat up significantly because if it's pushing 8 amps through it much like a dimmer is only listed for 600 watts or 1000 watts.
If it's rated for 8 amps, it will safely conduct 8 amps, subject to derating requirements.
What I want to know is whether this is a switch or a dimmer. The spec sheet I found is too clunky to try to figure out, and you know the answer already.
If it's a switch, call it a switch, and heating will be minimal until you're beyond its current spec. If it dims, it's a dimmer and heat is always a consideration, especially around 50% lighting.
And this is just too weird but true:
On January 14, 2016 at 15:21, King of typos said...
Can you use a clamp on meter to see what the entire circuit is drawing?
KOT said it first!
Something is telling me that the distance of the run is causing the bulbs to draw more amperage because they aren't getting the proper voltages (under load).
WTF? Well, yes, it's true! Incandescent bulbs have much less resistance when cold than when they are hot, so if they do not get enough voltage to heat up totally, they may draw more current than you'd calculate. This is totally bassackward and true. The only part that's up in the air is just exactly how much more current they would draw.
And, just by the way, hanging a clamp meter on the load wire will tell you how much current is being drawn. I know, I'm being repetitive.
Theory is only good if the actual circuit you have behaves according to theories. See, theories define conditions, then predict results. If you have not researched the conditions, you can't apply theories. So just measure the damn current.
I just assume that it's a long run, because you mentioned that they are at the end of the driveway.
The "long run" part of things adds resistance that partially negates the excess current that would result from the bulbs running with too little voltage. Again, the question is: how much does this affect the real current draw?
KOT, my hat is off to you for realizing that! I bet, though, that you did not just sit there and realize it, but you won it fair and square while sitting, thinking about why you were losing a wrestling match with a lighting circuit!
