Jim,
No, I programmed the Shift-Move to make the PIP small/large, Shift-Swap change the signal source and Shift-PIP to change channel. I USE the PIP only to turn it off. PIP is ok for sports not for movies.

I picked up the 6012 for the bedroom and I now see what you mean about the key size. When it comes to remotes all of us are All Thumbs. I have small fingers and even I could not operate the buttons on the bottom of this remote one handed. It requires that I hold the remote with one hand and press the button with the other. For my home theater this is not acceptable since we have a one-hander as a frequent guest.

I also find that explaining that L1 is a specific function is a lot easier than trying to explain why disp is changing audio options

So I'm sticking to the 7800 for my primary remotes for the home theater. I can operate the remote with one hand and reach all keys. My lefty and my one-hander are comfortable with it. And the L keys and macro keys are easy to explain.

Vicky

This message was edited by vickyg on 12/05/02 10:11.10.

Vicky,

I'm assuming your one-hander means you have one visitor that is physically handicapped. Having worked with people with physical disabilities, I've had to come up with ways to make their lives a bit more accomodating. Might I suggest:
If his chair is "cloth" as opposed to plastic or leather, and has "large arms", you might be able to find a "car console" ofthe type that sits on "humps". Then attach stick-on velcro to the console and the bottom of the remote. It would still be "removeable", and yet stationary enough for him to easily press the buttons one-fingered, rather than having to hold the remote. During "lapse" times, his hand would be free to do the typical eating and drinking. He wouldn't have to actually pick up the remote at all. Careful, the other guys might want the same feature, perhaps even you. Kind of a make-shift "docking station".
Jim

Jim,

Yes, you are right he has a physical handicap, however he is also a sports-fan and they NEVER want to let go of the remote. I only pick it up when my show is over they never watch a commercial and jump from one game to the next. You should hear the groan when all of the games are in commercial at the same time.

Now that I've committed to 7800's I've found a site that sells them 3 for 33 and free shipping. I'd like to know what I'm supposed to be soddering on my remote. I've found lots of directions on how to build a cable but nothing about what I'm supposed to do with those 6 holes. I found a Jp-1 cable with pins on it but Tommy Tyler seemed to pooh-pooh this approach. This pin-in cables sure sounds appealing. What's your opinion.

Vicky

This message was edited by vickyg on 12/05/02 18:06.21.

Vicky,
The cable you found likely just has the required 6 pin header plugged into the female end. The 6 pin header is just a 40 (double row x20) of breakaway pins. Many people just get the common PC type headers and just break off (it's easy) three sets of the pins. Then you just open the remote (there's instructions and guides at the JP-1 site) and solder that 6 pin group into the holes you can see. The soldering is done on the bottom of the pcb. The cable will come with one header already, so you'll need to get more for the other remotes. I'd suggest getting either a 2x20 (40 pin) header which will be enough for 6 remotes. The header isn't very expensive. You might be able to find it locally. RS used to carry it on their online site, but doesn't anymore for some reason. I think other online sites like mouser does have them. You didn't mention where you were getting the cable from, but if it's hovisdirect, you might be able to email Rick and he'll probably be willing to sell you either a 40 or however many more 6's you'd need reasonably, doesn't hurt to ask.
What tommy was pooh-poohing was trying to get away with using the 6 pins as a male end, and holding the 6 pins in the holes while trying to do the programming. The holes are loose so it's a real trick (read "bitch") to get it to work; therefore, it's a better idea just to go ahead and solder the pins in. John gets away with the male end approach with his 7800, but he does note that it's quite a task to get reliable results. I installed one in my 6800 (It's just like your 7800's), and the whole process to about 20 minutes. The soldering went quick, taking the remotes apart is the more time-consuming part.
old credit cards (or similar) and "blister-pak" material is a big help (way better than knives and screwdrivers). a small 15 or 25 watt pencil type soldering iron with a small pointed tip is all you'll need, and the easiest for this task. Get a little "electronics" solder with internal flux (rosin core), the internal flux will make the soldering easier. Don't make the mistake that if a little is good, a lot will be better; fact is, a good solder joint with the least amount of solder necessary is better than a big-blob figuring the extra is "insurance". It wouldn't hurt to have a little de-soldering "wick" material handy to keep the solder joints smaller. "cold" solder joints appear frosted, good ones appear shiny. Check you local library for a book or video on basic soldering; they'll have pictures and tips.
The "header" will look like 6 straight pins going through a chunk of plastic, the plastic keeps the pins aligned at the required spacing. The longer set of pins will be the part your cable plugs onto, so the shorter sides will go into the holes in the PCB. The 7800 has plenty of room below the pcb, so you won't have to worry about clipping the pins short after it's soldered in. Be sure to remove the screw(s) in the battery compartment first, beofre you attempt to pry the remote halves apart. Don't worry if you break off a clip on the side, the screws will still do the job of keeping the remote together when you put it all back together.
Jim

Vicky,
Since you brought up the cable, I'll pass on another little tip. Sounds like you'll be programming about 4 7800's, and you may be changing mini-macros often for your sports fans. The cable plugs into the parallel port on your pc. On many pc's, and since I don't know your pc setup, many people have a printer on that port. If you do: Get a simple cheap A/B parallel port switchbox. On one side, either A or B you can leave your printer hooked up, and the other you can leave your remote cable hooked up, then you'd simply have to switch from A to B depending on whether you want to use the port for the printer or for the remote programming. Disconnecting and swapping the cables can be a chore, and the switchbox will save you a lot of time and effort down the road. I think I paid like 10.00 for mine, and it was well worth it. It will require an additional printer cable as well, so use a bi-directional from the pc to the switchbox, and just plug the cable you already have from the printer to the box. I've seen bi-directionals at WW from 3-12 feet long, just get whatever length you need to put the box in a handy easy to reach position by your pc.
Jim

Jim,
Went to Radio Shack they do not carry the 40 pin breakaway header, it was in there catalog but when they called on availability it was discontinued.

So, I called a friend who likes to tinker and asked where I could get these pins. He was very interested in my project, knows where I can get my pins and has agreed to show me how to solder. Gee, I think maybe he'd like a jp1 enabled remote for Christmas.

So my cable has arrived. My remote with pins attached should arrive soon and then I'll be ready to start the part of the project that got me hooked from the get-go. Tweaking my remote to perfection.

Thanks a bunch
Vicky