Jim,
Well, I joined yahoo so that I could join the yahoo jp1 group. I've been waiting 12 hours for the JP1 group to send me a verification e-mail so that I can join. How long does this usually take? I'm interested in taking a look at everything I can before actually spending the cash.

I won't be able to see either of these remotes unless I order them. I went to two Radio Shacks. I really don't like going into Radio Shack, but I went to two to see the remote. RS is as bad as car dealers and computer shops when it comes to women. If I bring a man in with me, the salesperson waits on us, I ask the questions and the salesman responds to the man like I'm not even there. If I go alone the store needs to be empty with only one salesman for me to get waited on.
Vicky

I've been a "yahoo member" for quite a few years, so my JP-1 group "membership" kicked in immediately. I wouldn't think that there should have been much time involved. Try logging in with the "user-name" and password you selected. You kind of caught me with my "pants down" since I've never been in that situation. On the subject of email: generally yahoo will email you individual emails of each post at the group site. That can be overwhelming Considering there can be 60-100 posts a day. Don't despair, Just go to the bottom of one of those and change the options to NOT receive any emails from the group. Then just visit the group as you see fit to read posts or to post a question. However, You'll then have to return or stay there to see the answer(s) to your posted questions. The question/answer format is fairly similar to what's used here.


Vicky: I'm sorry to hear that you are obviously experiencing sexual harassment or bias when you go into a Radio Shack store. Might I suggest being more assertive from the moment you walk through the door. Perhaps walk right up to the counter with the remotes and just bluntly say in a fairly loud voice that you'd like to see xxxx. Don't let those clowns treat you as a second-class citizen. I can fully understand your apprehensions, just be resolved not to let them get away with it.

May I be the first to welcome you to the JP-1 group. Have fun programming your remotes, and PLEASE don't hesitate to ask questions, we at the group could care less about what gender you happen to be. Everyone there is there to be as helpful and informative as we possibly can.
Jim

Jim,

I would hardly call the RS treatment harassment, more like human nature. This does seem to be a male dominated area and it really is very blatent attitude. That is why I do all my computer and electronics research online and usually buy that way too. However, I was doing some shopping today and went to my third RS and they did have the 2116. I did review my current remote functions and even though there are Shift buttons are available, the end users would require my presence through football, hockey, basketball and baseball to manage for them. Although, they have managed the shift PIP functions to change the PIP channel, PIP video source and PIP size that's only because sports are extremely important to them. However the three button operation to turn on the receiver and change to TV/radio/cd as desired usually requires a consultation from the kitchen.

Now that I have thouroughly ruled out the 2166 tell be is the 8811 that HUGE. That 2116 is REALLY BIG. I think I might have to take up weight lifting to manage the thing. I don't think we'd ever have to worry about it slipping between the cushions of the couch. Although the guys probably could not crack the board when they squeeze it too tightly during really intense moments in sports action.

Does anyone have picture comparisons of these things? I think I might have to stock up on my favorite URC-7800 if these new remotes are as big as I fear. The more I shop the more I like that remote.

Vicky

This message was edited by vickyg on 11/26/02 21:14.08.

Vicky,

As you know, the 8811 has more buttons, although they are smaller and more jammed together; but it's about the same size as the 2116.
The only current possible remote ican think of is the 6011 or WW 6012W. However, to be JP-1 able requires the 6 pin header and an eeprom to be soldered in. With this done, this 6 device remote thinks it's an8 device remote. It won't have learning, however. But then, you could use your 7800 (with header added) as the learning "tool".
I don't know just how far you want to go into "hacking". Generally, these remotes, with eeproms pre-installed, come with 1K (not so much anymore), or 2K eeproms. However, some serious hackers have installed up to 8K eeproms which yields HUGE keymove/macro space. The 6011 is about the same size as your 7800. I think rob was selling some upgrade "packages" for both the 6011 and 8011's, you might check with him at JP-1 about prices and availability. I can't remember if he had any 6012w's with the eeprom already installed or not. For doit yourselfers' I think he was asking something like 3.00 for the eeprom, header, etc., delivered.
You could of course, if you really like the 7800 perhaps find them on ebay. I recall seeing a 6800 and 7800 listed for 3.99 each open and no takers. I haven't looked in a while so I don't know just what's available anymore, and their going rates.
Jim

Jim,

I think "hacking" sounds like fun. Actually I started into this to eliminate the 5 remote clutter. I then found I could have a better remote than all of my orininals combined. The challenge of writing macros to automate the tedious input-source switching from a menu driven system was as far as I had planned to go. I found this site when looking for an all-in-one as a gift for friend. I have lots of features I'd like to add to my remote.

Since I joined this forum I've found that the seemingly random numbers that I had tested 2 years ago were just a combination of numbers that were the digital representation of 0-255 or 257-511... I found errors in the table I was given and found more features that my tv will perform.
I've found out that there is some significance to the 4 digit code when trying those 256 codes. I think that I can get more out of my remote with the jp1. And I think that adding new equipment in the future would be easier if I understood the jp1.

Girl's-shop-class did not cover sodering. We learned household basics like how to fix a clogged sink, or repair a toilet, change a doorknob, rewire a lamp -- you know common survival skills. I don't think sodering is something I want to become involved in. I want a remote that has the jp1 connector already on board. I was under the impression that the 8811 had the connector on board since the all-in-one web site kept describing it as upgradable.

All in all this seems like a fun relatively cheap hobby.

So the remote needs to have the jp1 connector attached.
The remote needs to be a current model that will be available in the future.
The remote needs to have LOTS of buttons.
The remote needs to support 7 devices or more
And the remote needs to be inexpensive (under 40) since I'll need several to fool with. We have to have to have two in active duty at all times because the sports fans think nothing of coming into the room and switching to sports-center during commercial and then leaving the room without returning to tech-tv or weepy-movie channel.
And I'd prefer a smaller remote because I don't want to have to build muscles or take up too much table space.

Now given those specifics to you think I aught to buy losts of 7800 and take up sodering or
look at the 60xx or give up on small or start out with a trial 8811.

Vicky

Vicky,
With all the criteria you listed, nothing passes all of them. Even the 7800, while passing the 7+ devices, small, buttons (52), it's discontinued, and doesn't have the header pre-installed. The 6116 and 8811 both have the header, but both are larger than the 7800, the 8811 getting a slight edge on button numbers (2 or 4 more, I can't remember which). The 60xx is smaller, has fewer buttons, doesn't support learning (which wasn't listed as a criteria), and requires soldering both the header and an eeprom, but then thinks it's an 8 device remote.
Soldering isn't all that difficult, and as a historical note, millions of women performed this taskduring WWII to support the war effort, and "man" assembly lines during male body shortage. Many industries today still employ millions of females to perform soldering tasks. While the level required here wouldn't involve a whole class at some jr college or tech school, You could learn the basics to get by from a videotape likely available at your closest library. The header is the easier of the 2, with just 6 tiny solder connectioins to make. the eeprom has 8, but one whole side is co-joined so just the other 4 solder joints are really the pickiest to keep seperate, and they are tiny. Maybe even one of your sports-fan guys can lend a hand? That hacking would be both hardware and software based. Other JP-1 hacks are even more involved and intricate; but we won'tgo into that.
The 8811 and 2116 are both larger than the 7800. By about 1 3/4" in length, and thicker, the width's are pretty close. I have both a 1994 and 6800 (virtually identicalto your 7800), and holding one in each hand, I really can't discern any weight difference. The 2116 is about identical to the 1994 in size and weight. To me, the larger buttons and being more spread out I find to be an advantage. Your sports fan buddies would probably likewise. However, since you're the owner and main user, That choice really is your choice to make, and they should just have to live with it.
Other than the size criteria, overall the 8811 seems to fit the most criteria you listed. #2 would be the 2116, but not by much (under the 8811). The 60xx fails to pass all but 1, size. The 7800 fails the non-soldering, and being "current", but does being a current model really matter with JP-1?
Balancing everything, maybe the 8811 as a trial would be the way to go?
Jim

Vicky,
I have several URC-8011s and URC-7800s which are all pre-soldered and JP1 ready for sale, if you're interested, drop me a line at rob1 (at) rockabilly (dot) net

Rob
http://www.hifi-remote.com

Thanks rob, I was hoping you'd jump in.
Jim

You seemed to have this thread under control, so it didn't seem I was needed this time! :)

Rob and Jim,

Thanks for all your help. I ended up getting a raincheck for a URC-8910 at the post-turkey day sales. I think its probably too big and too fragile and the PIP buttons will require the left hand, but the deal was too good to pass up.

I'm ordering the pre-made jp1 cable from one of suppliers in the jp1 group and have been reading lots of Rob's articles so I'll be prepared when my supplies arrive.

I hope the vcr-transport keys will work like they did on the 7800. I'm afraid they may have changed this when they added the home theater key. We'll see.

If don't like the 8910 I'll be back to Rob for the 7800 with the JP1 connector. Soddering sounds like a real chore. I imagine it would be something like a cross between fine-stiching and using a curling-iron, two jobs I avoid if possible.

I'm now off to find a simple remote for the bedroom. While I was away another OE remote bit the dust. We really are hard on remotes here.

Vicky

I hope you got a good price on the URC-8910 and I hope it's returnable, because I have a feeling that you are not going to like the SELECT button.

As for a good remote for the bedroom, may I recommend the URC-6012w, which is $15 at Walmart. If need the remote to be JP1 ready, then the 15-2104 is probably your best bet, which is $19 at Radio Shack. While I personally don't like the 15-2104, it's a good deal for the price.

Rob

Rob,

I've read that people didn't like the donut shape button on the 8910, but then I'd read that people didn't like the number shaped numbers on 7800. I still haven't seen the 8811 or 8910 in person. The 8910 was REALLY cheap, but then I still only have a raincheck. I can change my mind. I know that the sports-fans are not going to like those PIP keys. The Prev/ch, PIP, Move and Swap keys on my first 7800 are so warn they don't say anything anymore. There is also very heavy wear on the the macro keys on both 7800 and the newer one is only 11 months old. Obviously the newer remotes were not made with the sports-fan in mind. So how bad is that Select key? I may have to rethink this one more time.

I hope to get to Walmart when it stops snowing for that 6012 for the bedroom.

Vicky

Vicky,
Some people lately have mentioned that the select key on their's wasn't too bad, so MAYBE they made it a little taller lately. If you have small fingers, it's less a problem than if you have large fingers, assuming they didn't make a change. While YOU might not have a problem, perhaps the sports-fans might, time will tell.
Jim
I don't like the numeral keys because pressing the 1 and 7 is unreliable, and I have fairly large thumbs/fingers. Thus it requires me to LOOK at the remote and see if the led lights when I press them, and probably half the time or better it requires me to press them twice or more to actually get the press to "take". I also don't like the "setup" key being on the bottom end. I like the "P" at the top corner of my 1994 a lot better.

Jim,
Now that you mention it I have a bit of trouble with the 1 not taking, but I find that the 1 and 4 and 7 hurt to press. (I don't get control of the remote very often and have not built up callouses.) However because I choose remotes with lots of keys, the location of the setup key is perfect for me. The only keys I use the setup/shift with are the PIP keys and I only use the PIP functions to turn the PIP off.
Vicky

Vicky,

if I read this right, you use shift-pip on/off to turn the Pip off. Have you checked to see if the device setup code for your tv has an efc for a toggle instead of discretes for this function?
Jim