I've had my TSU2000 for close to a year now, and it's getting to the point where I can't use the thing without it rebooting. I've done ALL the battery tweaks, like bending and cleaning the contacts, reseating the pack properly, and I've even applied conductive silver grease to the contacts to no avail. I'm wondering if a new battery pack would help, or if I should just start saving for the ProntoPro.

Hey Patrick - I feel for you, I really do but why don't all of you guys who have battery tab, docking station, recharge light problems just start using AA's? I mean you might change them twice a year but really is it worth all the aggravation of the docking station/rechargeable pack?

Coner

If your battery pack was ruined by bad charging the first few times you charged it, there is essentially no amount of tweaking that will revive it. Most rechargeable batteries are terribly, awfully sensitive to how they are charged the first few times. Ni-Cad and NiMh batteries, the most popular, both need to be fully charged before their first use. NiCads also must be almost, but not quite fully drained during their first use cycle. Without following these (albeit irritating) rules, you can ruin the entire life of the battery.

Have you tried using plain old AA batteries for one cycle to see if they work? If they do, then a new battery pack may be your answer.

Dale

I had the same problem, but it only occurred when the backlight was on and I was using the Phillips battery pack. I tried all of the fixes mentioned in the Forum, eraser, reseating the pack, leaving out over night, the works. Everyone keeps pointing to the the way the battery is inserted, but based on the scratch marks on the battery pack, that didn't seem to be the case. So I took mine apart. What I found was that the battery terminal labeled "C" was shorting to diode "D1" when the screen was pushed. The voltage applied to the diode was causing the Pronto to reboot. I added some insulation on top of the diode. Not everyone is going to want to take their remotes apart, but I think this is a fix for some. The reseating technique tries to accomplish the same thing by not pushing the terminal down. I have had absolutley no reboots since my fix.

Patrick do a real good wind up before you pitch that sucker , it's no fun when you can still tell what it was afterwards.

I recommend beating the remote with a sledge. It's much more fun and it really tends to relieve a lot of stress. Throwing it against the wall only satisfies the stress for a very short time.

You could always throw the remote against the wall, then finish with the sledge method I mention. That actually sounds like fun..... I think I'll go break something.... later.

JJP

John,

A sledge?? You must be a closet Gallager fan. Whatever happened to that guy anyway?

Jim L

Still see him on hbo and in vegas,
maybe he's gonna retire there like the King.

Lembke, how were you able to determine that battery terminal labeled "C" was shorting to diode "D1" when the screen was pushed?

Getting back on target here...

I had the same problem a few months ago on my 1000. When the thing would sleep for more than a minute, it would reboot. I reflashed it a dozen times, but no use. I even brought it back to the default ccf, but still no luck. So I ended up buying a 2000 after I couldn't take it anymore. The day I got the 2000 the 1000 started working fine again, but only for a couple of weeks.

BTW, I was using AA batteries in mine, so I don't think your issue is the battery pack.

Merrill

Before I opened the case, I was able to narrow down the spot that seemed to reboot my remote consistently. As I recall, it was between 1/2" to 1" above the bottom of the display. It was also easier to cause a reboot on the left side of the case. When I opened the case up, I could see that the board was moving when I was pushing on the case. Then I looked at what was happening when the case was pushed. That battery terminal is directly above D1. Very close, the small amount that the case was moving was enough to get them to touch. I put some insulation on top of the diode. I have not had a reboot since I did all of this months ago. I was near the point of throwing against the wall also. I don't know how common of a problem this is though. I tried all the other cures without any luck. I can see how trying to get the battery to seat a little higher might help, the terminal wouldn't be pushed as far down. I think it may be a design flaw, but nobody seems to interested. Most people probably don't want to open theirs up. I wasn't worried too much. I am an electronics tech by trade, so I said what the hell. I wasn't impressed with the life of the AA's. I wanted the battery pack back. Hope this helps someone someday.

Well, I've been using AAs for the past 2 days and not a single restart. So, I wonder if a new battery pack would help.

Nope, scratch that, it just rebooted 3 times in a row. LOL.