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Answer to my question about DSS control
This thread has 8 replies. Displaying all posts.
Post 1 made on Wednesday October 14, 1998 at 12:26
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I called the 800 number on the RCA website for technical questions re: DSS. I was told that the remote for my 5451 system (dual output) puts out **BOTH** IR and UHF. I was told that if you don't connect the little 6" coax wire remote antenna to the back of the reciever, the reciever will look for IR signals, not UHF (sounds fishy and more complicated than necessary to me). The single line DSS systems are IR-only. Yes, the UHF is so your remote can work thru walls. Luckily, it *sounds* like the pronto (and other universal IR remotes) can learn DSS commands. I currently have a cheap Yamaha learning (IR) remote) and I will test it tonite. Will post results tomorrow.

Looks like we are OK.

Has anyone found decent prices on prontos on the web?n Where can I get a list of dealers? I wasn't able to find anything about the pronto on the Philips website.

On the other hand, if the pronto could learn UHF, you could sneak around and learn all of your neighbors garage door codes and maybe even their keyless entry remote codes!! (are those UHF???)

Jon Maddux
OP | Post 2 made on Wednesday October 14, 1998 at 13:00
a helpful person
Historic Forum Post
RCA's DSS codes operate on a 56 kHz carrier, a little higher than most (36-40 kHz) but Pronto will work just fine. If it doesn't catch it first time, just try it again. Other brands of DSS receiver are at 38 kHz, Sony is at 40 kHz.

By the way, some brands of cheap compact flourescent tubes (not those made by Philips!) emit a fair amount of IR energy around 50 kHz, which interferes with RCA DSS remotes, so check that the original remote is working OK before teaching the Pronto.

Philips site for Pronto is at

Garage door openers actually operate in an 'unlicensed' VHF band (around 318 MHz if I remember correctly). But the modern ones use a 'rotating polynomial' system that can't be cloned in that fashion anyhow...
OP | Post 3 made on Wednesday October 14, 1998 at 13:13
Daniel Tonks
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Hmm, this brings to mind something completely unrelated, but I can only use Philips incandescent light bulbs in my house.

Why? Well, my house has a lot of dimmer switches and I have extremely sensitive hearing. Light bulbs tend to make a "buzzing" sound when the power going to them is dimmed, usually anything lower than 90% of norm. I have a 5-bulb light fixture above a card table, and since it was too bright with 5 - 60w bulbs, I put a good quality dimmer on it. Well, one night when playing I dimmed it down a bit, and due to the loud-loud-loud buzzing sound I got an incredable headache. Everyone else could barely hear it.

Quite by accident, I discovered that Philips bulbs do not make ANY audible buzzing sound no matter how they're dimmed. And since my local Costco recently switched to Philips bulbs my life's been made a little bit easier....
OP | Post 4 made on Sunday October 18, 1998 at 15:43
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Thank you very much! The Philips light bulbs do work well with the dimmer. I can say goodbye to those annoying "buzzing" noise. Thanks again.

OP | Post 5 made on Sunday October 18, 1998 at 16:37
Daniel Tonks
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Heh, you never know what information you're going to find where, eh? :-)
OP | Post 6 made on Sunday October 18, 1998 at 18:35
Scott "popcorn"
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Do the Philips Halogen lamps (300 to 500 watt) not buzz either, or is it just the incandecents?
OP | Post 7 made on Monday October 19, 1998 at 15:24
Daniel Tonks
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I'm not sure. From what I see, dimmed halogen lamps more "hum" than buzz, and most of that sound comes from the transformer if it's low voltage. Only way to know is to test!
OP | Post 8 made on Monday October 19, 1998 at 15:45
Scott "popcorn"
Historic Forum Post
The 300 to 500 watt lamps don't have transformers... I should know, I've had mine apart on many occasions. :)
OP | Post 9 made on Monday October 19, 1998 at 17:20
Daniel Tonks
Historic Forum Post
300 to 500w halogen lamps? And you're close enough to hear them buzz? Hmmmm. :-)

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