Just received my MRF-300. I've got everything working well. Connected the Denon 3805 up from the back with 3.5 mm cable. Scientific Atlanta 8300 HD rear input doesn't work (reserved for future use according to manual) but works from front with a emitter attached. But I can't get my Mits 65813 to work with RF coming out of the MX-850 and an emitter pointing at the screen. I'm getting a signal to the emitter (very cool red light indicates that. I've change emitters and outputs on the MRF and adjusted the strength from full up to full down. I removed the paper backing form the emitter just in case it was blocking it. The TV works fine with the MX set to IR, but I can't get the MRF signal through. The receiver on the Mits is apparently behind the front screen since the remote works when pointed at it and no where else. I've held the emitter everywhere from way back to right up next to the screen and it never works. I know I could just use IR to the screen from the MX but I want to be able to turn it on from across the room and withour pointing at it.

Ron,

Have you tried adjusting the gain on that flasher? If you raise it, it should work for you.

Also, if the IR sensor is behind the screen, you may need to find the location and place the flaser close enough to it to that it can receive the signal. When using the remote in IR, it's got a wider range than the flasher, so it's easier to hit the sensor.

Let me know if that works for you.



Thank you,
Damon DG
= = = = =
Control Systems Consulting, Sales & Online Programming

I raised it up to full gain and I moved it all over the screen. No luck.

The emitters are made to be near the IR receiving eye of any component and are not strong enough to work through the Mits screen (and bounce off the mirror inside). You could remove the screen and place the emitter inside. If you want to try that, I can give you instructions on how to remove the screen if you've never done it before.

Mike

Can you get to it from the back of the case? I have remote the Screen saver (plastic protective cover) because of reflections. I'm willing to try the screen if necessary, just worried about damage.

Ron,

Try using flasher port 6. This is supposedly a high output line. Try it out and let me know if that makes a difference.



Thank you,
Damon DG
= = = = =
Control Systems Consulting, Sales & Online Programming

Yes, but it would be harder to place the emitter with the mirror in the way.

Tried number 6 full gain, went all over the screen, nothing. With the mx in IR I can turn it on from a long way off. Those emitters must be significantly less power. How do you get the screen off?

Just for kicks I tried the MRF with the front blaster on. Put it in front of the TV and it worked great. Doesn't help me though since I need it in the Cabinet. Seems like the only solution is remove the screen to search for the receiver or live with IR for the TV.

Ron, I have the exact same TV and have it working with the wired emitters. I think it is worth doing. It only took me about 15 minutes to place it inside the cabinet. I looked into access from the rear, etc. but in the end it's is much quicker simpler install from the front.

Grab an extra pair of hands for this, Be careful, but don't sweat taking off the screen. It is extremely easy and as long as the room is not full of kids or animals your not going to damage anything.

Make sure you have a safe place to set down the screen where nothing will touch either side and handle the screen by the edges only.

Pull off the bottom speaker cover from the sides. Ease it off little by little. There are no screws, it just pulls off.

Remove power from the TV. Grab a flashlight and locate the wiring harness at the middle of the TV at the top of the hole that exposes the CRT guns. Disconnect the wiring harnesses that connects the front controls to the electronics/chassis. I don’t recall if there are one, two or three connectors to undo

Remove the four screws along the bottom of the screen that hold it on. The screen hangs on top of the cabinet so it’s not going to fall off in your hands.

Here is where an extra pair of hands come in handy (if you’re a coordinated guy with long arms and know what to expect this can be done alone). Lift the screen assembly up at the bottom corners, supporting the top corners simultaneously. The screen lifts clear.

I chose to drill a small hole through the black pressboard front at the bottom of the screen cavity at the side that my emitter was coming from. It made the run a lot cleaner, shorter and kept the wire away from the screen area. Feed the emitter through the hole.

Place the emitter on the IR board. It is a small light brown circuit board mounted just above the center CRT lense. Its pretty obvious , as I remember, which part is the IR sensor. It’s at the top center of the board as I remember. The picture shows you what you’ll be seeing. It’s not great quality, but you can just make out the board described above.

If you have any questions, feel free to email me.

Hope this helps.

Lane Bailey

Thanks a lot, I'll give it a try. Just need to get the courage up.

Ron,
I'm a broadcast engineer sitting at home sitting at home right now. If your want to give me a call, send me an email and I'll respond with my phone number. I'll walk you through it.

Lane Bailey

Ron I just looked at your Profile and see your in Utah. I live in Orem. My numbers is in the book or use the Email i my profile.

The little gold rectangle from the SPot picture is where the IR eye is. Also, I'm not sure about the newer models, but the older ones had tabs where you could place the screen by lifting it up and resting it on those tabs. You would then have some limited access to the inside without removing the screen completely.

Thanks for all the offers of help. I'm on the road for a few days and will try to get to it in week or so. Doesn't seem too bad. (I think I've thought that before)