My practice has been to simply turn the volume on my TV all the way down when I want to listen to a program through my surround sound processor. I do this instead of muting the TV because the on-screen display shows "MUTING" and it stays like that until un-muted. So simply "muting" the TV is not an option.

To facilitate this I've programmed a couple of custom buttons to control the TV's volume as the remote's dedicated volume buttons are assigned to my Technics processor. This requires the user after selecting this activity to turn down the TV's volume all the way manually.

What I'd like to do is have this as part of the activity's launch. I guess one could program repeated add'l steps at the end of the activity to turn down the volume - based on the level that the TV is typically listened at this would be upwards of 25 add'l steps. With an inter-key delay of 100ms this could add upwards of 2.5 seconds one would need to keep the remote pointed at the devices. I guess I'm looking for any other work arounds other users may suggest?

Iris

I see that you have a Sony TV. Try the new "SpeakerToggle" command in device mode to see if it works on your TV model.

Another option is to just always use your receiver for sound. I, and probably a lot of other people, never use the TV's speakers.

Does anybody else find it strange that so many people only use their surround receivers part time? I did it but only because I didn't have a harmony remote that would handle everything seamlessly.

Then again in my home theater the receiver is the video switch so it has to be used.

A quick check and it does indeed have that command. Forgot all about it - I'll give it a try. Thanks!

To address the other's users posts - my system is all seperates including two amps and a self-powered sub. The amps are not self-powered and require to be manually turned on. Consequently, we rely on the TV volume for most viewing.

Iris

They don't have remote controls?

Mine doesn't either. I got around the problem by building a relay box that supplies power to a powerstrip, triggered by the switched "convenience" outlet on my receiver. (The convenience outlet can't handle the amp's load itself). RatShack used to sell a slaved powerstrip like this, but I haven't seen one in years, so I rigged my own.

That's a heck of an idea Steve.

I have three outlets on my pre-amp of which two are switched but like you they won't even come close to handling the load of my two amps. I like your idea though, that's using the noggin! I'd like to explore your idea further. Assuming RatShack isn't carrying anything like this anymore could you provide some more details on the "relay" you built?

Iris

P.S. One other thing - not important really but I also run all my power through an AudioPrism Power Foundation I . One more reason I would'nt want to run off the switched outlets but the "relay" I think would be workable.

My partner watches the plasma with the crappy analogue signal and the standard LG built in speakers. Gives a stretched grainy screen that sounds very ordinary. Drives me crazy!

She says using the Amp requires too many buttons & remotes. Hence I am on this site: I have to get a universal remote!

But I wonder if that will be enough? I predict one small hiccup and she will be back to using the TV alone!

Once you get it set up and work out any timing issues you shouldn't have any problems. And if you do she can just press help and answer the questions. Harmonies seem to have the highest WAF (or PAF) of any of the universal remotes due to their one button activity model and smart state technology.

I found one likely candidate online here:



You could also attempt to build one like I did. Don't do this if you're not used to working with electricity. Doing the wrong thing can kill you or burn down your house.

You can get the relevant parts at RatShack or online through DigiKey. Look for a 120 volt AC relay that can switch more than the amount of current that your amp requires, something similar to this:

Radio Shack 125VAC 10Amp DPDT relay


Also buy a project box (plastic) big enough to hold the parts, some heat-shrink tubing, a simple outlet strip with about a six foot cord, a few AC wire nuts, and an additional two-prong AC plug cord (light duty, like a lamp cord).

Make sure all project cords are UNPLUGGED.

Drill holes in the project box to run wires into it (run the wires through the holes before attaching them to the relay). You wire (solder) the lamp cord to the activating terminals of the relay. You may want to wire to a compatible relay socket instead, making it easier to change the relay if it croaks or wears out. Then cut the cord on the outlet strip about midway, strip the jacket back a few inches, slide heat-shrink over the cut ends of each wire, then wire the two ends of the hot wire (typically black) through the appropriate relay contacts (normally-open). If it's a double pole relay, you can also wire the neutral wire (typically white) through the second set of contacts, so both sides of the circuit are switched. Use wire nuts to connect the two ends of the ground wire, and the two ends of the neutral wire if you dind't wire it through the relay. Slide the heat-shrink tubing over any exposed connections and shrink it to fit (a match will work - not too close).

You plug the lamp cord plug into the switched outlet, and the powerstrip plug into a house outlet. When the receiver powers up, this pulls the relay closed, switching power on through the outlet strip. Put all the parts into the project box and you're done.

If any of the above didn't make sense, you probably shouldn't attempt this.

Last edited by SteveInNC on December 2, 2005 01:25.

Thanks Steve - since your post I've been checking around and may be able to find a solution.

Iris

Thanks akirby.

Pardon my ignorance, but what is WAF and PAF?

Wife Acceptance Factor

Partner Acceptance Factor

LOL!