Have always sold the LG OLEDS for the great pic quality and its always been easy enough to control them with URC Total Control in the systems we build. Until the first time this happened about 2023. The first one was an 83" OLED that I was just installing in a simple surround system and we were unable to get the set to reliably power on/off with an IR emitter. Tried all the tricks, the emitter placement was very, very sensitive. And in the end that day, pulled off the job as I spent an entire afternoon trying to power a TV up/down reliably. So, cut the cord to loop back to it later.

What happened next is worse as I shipped 3 new LG OLEDs down to the next state 400mi away for a great AV remodel-before I had begun to get the beginning of an idea there might be a weird issue with newer LG OLEDs. This was a high pressure, working to an absolute schedule with other contractors subs with a deadline.
So, we get all the network and AV installed, Install the OLEDs and then programming Total Control, started having IR command intermittency with 2 out of 3 of the OLEDs. One of the 83" ones controlled reliably via IR out of the gate and is reliable to this day.
Two of the others were EXTREMELY sensitive to emitter placement; we ended up getting pretty OK IR control of one and the final 65" was a no go. On it we ended up setting up IP control but in the long run, it has acted up and failed. Google LG OLED IP control issues and now (not then) you see tons of Control 4, Crestron and other integrators that are having the same problem: there are integrators who are unable to control their personal OLEDs reliably!

So on that one job, long term I ended up with 2 new OLEDs 400 mi away that don't power up or switch inputs reliably, my multiple home repeat customer ain't so happy now!
Fast forward to later and another trip was required as some of the other subs didn't get done on time: So I head home call LG and report the no control via infrared aand they act like I'm insane and they stated they have no reports of that issue. Call URC support, same response. I think I'm the lucky first installer to discover this issue with the new OLEDS, there was nothing on the web either.
So we try an IR blaster that's compatible with Total Control (Hint: a Harmony blaster from Ebay works) on the local problem OLED and IR works just fine. I have an earlier C Series OLED myself it works fine with IR. Setup IP control on it as a test and its been reliable on that for 1.5 years now. So, time to head back to the Oregon site, I stock up on the Harmony blasters and roll down there Thinking we;re covered as it solved the issue on the same year problem OLED that is local here.
But no. At the Oregon site the single OLED that always worked with IR still does. The "iffy one" it now works to hang the ugly lump of a blaster on the back of the set and let IR bounce off the furniture below- it's still fine. The super problematic 65" the IR blaster didn't help at all. So we confirmed all settings were correct and reprogrammed it for IP control. Then took turns "torture testing" it repeatedly the last couple hours we were onsite in Oregon finishing other tasks and it operated flawlessly dozens of times over that 2 hr torture test. Get home relax.............and start getting unhappy texts 3 days later from the customer that the same 65" is not operating reliably again.
So apparently, random LG OLEDS are not reliable to automate via IR or IP control at this time.
Then I was dense enough to sell OLED again- i have a local 2025 YEAR 83 OLED, went to automate it the other day again same story no reliable IR with emitter or blaster. No reliable IP control. This site double the fun as it has an IP cable box with TIVO factory bluetooth remote. So again an afternoon of programming and could not turn on a TV or change the channel reliably. Supposedly from the web and URC support, the trick with these ridiculous Bluetooth remote equipped engineering nightmares is to "unpair the remote" and it puts the device into IR control mode. Not true, the OLED that did nothing. The Tivo was such a cheap POS of hardware that I never could unpair it after trying about 10 different ridiculous procedures I found on the web.
Anyone else have any success with this Remote Central? We were gonna stick it to LG and boycott them for Sony, and I see Sony also has Bluetooth remotes......

Does it have a bluetooth remote that requires removing battery?

The few LG TV's I've done with Crestron and IP control has been solid. Are the TVs wired or wireless? If wireless can you wire them?

If wired have you set them to DHCP reservation/static IP?

For IR control as mrtristan mentioned have you tried to remove the battery/unpair the remote from the TV (assuming it's a bluetooth remote)

This is the reason I believe that ALL AV eqipment should have a 3.5mm jack on the rear, same as AVRs. It just works.

1st things first...

You gotta use paragraphs and break things up a bit.

2nd Sony FTW.

Agreed!

Thanks for that suggestion, we did unpair the remote so I will try that next

Thanks.

Hi thanks. Def DHCP reservation. Unfortunately, the most problematic one out of state is wifi without a reasonable possibility of going wired. During last onsite trip, we combed through all settings and IP settings to ensure all was correct.

Then operated it repeatedly for 1.5-2 hrs as we loaded out with 100% success. Until I got home. Darn it!
At least I have 3 of the same 2025 series installed here locally. So can at least experiment with them to try and solve before making a long trip.

I have a LG OLED65B4AUA and using my Pronto TSU-9400 via IR with no issues.

The TV purchase was from BJ's Wholesale that was a display item. It did not come with a remote, no biggie at the point of sale. However, nearly none of the Pronto catalog would work. Some did, but not all of the functions.

I had borrowed one of my coworker's LG remote. And was able to program all of that remote's buttons into my Pronto.

If I remember correctly, the ON/OFF was from the Philips catalog. I'll have to start up my computer to look up those codes if you wish. Just let me know.

KOT

Not helpful, but as a side note, I have customers ask me to set up systems in second homes, 4, 6, 12 hours away.  I used to but now I explain.

10 years ago, 20 years ago, I could confidently set up a system many hours away and count on it to work all the time.

We have transitioned from standalone cable boxes, simple IR controlled TV, BDP, AVR to networked gear, to streaming ROKU and AppleTV... what used to be bulletproof is now network dependent, and you will need someone local to AT MINIMUM power cycle stuff, more likely to swap things out now and then... YOU WILL NEED SOMEONE LOCAL if you want this stuff to work without long downtimes.

So I don't say NO WAY FORGET IT, but I do say you will still need to find someone local, so why not have him do it and maintain it...

One of the fails of AV installation in the 2020's and it won't be improving any time soon.

I have never had luck with controlling any TVs via WIFI. Its either wired network or IR/RS232.

If you don't have the wiring can you install a mesh style access point and use the network port to uplink to the TV to provide it a "wired" connection?

Yes Tom- All you stated is very true.

A totally good remotely managed network helps.
And also having the customer buy good remote IP power units like Wattbox/etc, those units can save you good on restarts.

But its actually impossible to mitigate without a local contact as you say.

Some of it is the dumb "open architecture" concept of gear that totally changes functionality and/or resets to factory defaults on an update.

And if you've been in this industry awhile, you can definitely tell the big boy manufacturers of mainstream products like TVs, engineering teams are likely completely ignorant of how their products are used by our small little niche of the industry. Their selling thru Costco, Best Buy and Walmart in quantity and yes, the "Smart TV" they design to be the "HUB" of your home darn well better pop up a notification when your clothes get dry.

Unfortunately seems the engineers don't understand what a video display is and our industrys need to just have a TV power on/off and switch 4 inputs reliably! Zero understanding of backwards compatibility or legacy control standards. One of the worst is I am now starting to see dumb Android TVs with only power toggle, no "power on or "power off commands at all.

Yep, can't really do travel jobs anymore..........

If only that were true. The cable box that Spectrum uses doesn't work with the IR jack. At least not with the URC CC devices. It works with other AV gear that has one, but not this stupid cable box. What is worse is that if the jack has a cable connected, it keeps the IR remote from being received. Discovered that the hard way.

You do realize that "IR jack" is meant for an IR receiver. It is a 3 pin connector (stereo) with voltage to power an IR receiver.
If you stick a 2 pin (mono) plug into the jack, it grounds out the voltage for the IR circuit. That is why when you plug a cable (2 pin) into the jack, the IR on the box stops working.
If you use a 3 pin cable (stereo), strip the wires back, and connect the gnd & ir signal to your control system (leave the voltage wire disconnected); you can control the box just fine.