We don't do a lot of shades (last system we prewired was 5 years ago) but we have a house coming up where they are asking for at least the shade prewire. I'm just wondering what everyone is running now a days for shade control.

We are a Crestron dealer, so I know that the Crestron shades only require a cresnet (shielded 2, 18awg and 2, 20awg), but what do other manufactures require, 18/3, 18/4, 22AWG, will cresnet work for pretty much any shade these days?

Also is the standard to run to the left side of the window or has that also changed, or does it matter?

Thanks for any help

Forgive me for this, but what brand do you want to install, and what does the manufacturer you want to install say?

CRESNET-HP is what I used recently for 18 shades fed from 2 power supplies. Distance and size of the shade will factor in when using the HP(High Power) CRESNET over regular CRESNET. I had full floor and double floor size shades so they were BIG. All LEFT side motors that were Architectural XL series.

We would install Crestron, however if the home owner chooses not to go with us to install these shades (they are just wanting the prewire completed at this time) I want to ensure that what wire we install will work with other manufactures. In the end if the wire doesn't work it will be our fault (if the home owner chooses a different installer) so I want to ensure that what we install will work for some of the major brands (Lutron, Hunter Douglas).

BTX uses A/C power at the side that makes most sense and then is controlled by RJ11 to contact.

Tell them to wire AC outlets next to every window. Most companies including Crestron have a wireless com option for control. Powering the motors is really your problem.

If you don't know what you are going to use i think the minimum is...

1 Cat5
1 4 wire data+power "Control" Cable (lutron/cresnet etc)
1 AC Outlet

If you were to decide to use Lutron shades (for example) you could save your client a lot of money and just pull a single Lutron cable to each shade.

As others have mentioned there isn't any right answer for this... it all depends on who's shade is installed.

The problem with AC outlet is that it's difficult to conceal the outlet and cord and/or power supply unless you have large shade pockets or are installing Roman shades or drapes where you can hide wiring behind the fabric.

Control wiring will be specific to the shade manufacturer and if you end up with low voltage shades with "wireless" controls all you really need to worry about is power.

Power can be tricky because you still have to size the wire properly.  For a single shade, Lutron recommends 18awg up to 125ft wire distance, 16awg up to 200ft and 12awg up to 500ft wire distance.

16awg usually works for my jobs and I'll use Lutron QSH-CBL-M cable which provides 16/2 for power and 22/2 twisted shielded pair with drain for control.

I'm not familiar with Crestron shades, but sounds like the Lutron wire or similar might work for them too?

This type of cabling is probably your best bet (unless you think 120v shades might be used).  It would work to provide power for wirelessly controlled shades, can also provide control for wired Lutron & Crestron shades and could also provide power and control for shades that operate on contact closure.

Thanks all,

I will quote the Cresnet-HP (2 12awg for power and 2 shielded 22awg for control). Will also talk to the home owner and suggest that since they aren't sure with what manufacture to go with that a 120v receptacle also be placed at the shade location to ensure that any option they choose they should be covered.

It sounds like the client thinks the shade brand decision is not needed at this time, but your question shows that it would be helpful, and could save some money down the road, to pin this down now. Is someone involved in the project who can make that decision?

Alternatively, if everyone here who has done shades could list here what models they have used, and whether the wiring was needed at the right or left, you could present a list of possibilities to the HO now and tell them a decision is needed.

Failing that, is it possible to run the wiring to one side and daisy-chain to the other side?

The client asked us to provide pricing to prewire for automated shades. This is something that they may not choose to do at all so a decision as to what shade they are going with is moot until they actually want automated shades or say yes to the quote

I believe the industry standard is to the left side of the window (when looking out). My question was to ensure that manufactures haven't decided to change everything and place all the connections to the right.


I believe I saw on Crestron's shade request form you are able to specify if you want left or right connections.

It looks like there are two answers to guarantee connections: NOW specify the product to be used, or daisy-chain. I just realized cabling could be surface-run inside a small plastic rectangular duct, too, to get power from one side to the other.

Hunter Douglas uses a simple 16/2 for power. super long distance 14/2 recommended.

Ranger,
does Hunter Douglas use separate lines for control, or do they reverse the polarity of the motor voltage to accomplish control? I guess if there are only two wires, then you can stop anywhere, so that feature is included!

Similar to Crestron, the Lutron SCT software will allow you specify the drive side prior to ordering the shades. So the side of the window that the wire is on with Lutron is not as important.

The details matter and unfortunately one size does not always fit all. You could do a few thing given your situation.

1) Wire for every possible scenario and when they ask why it is 10 times more than it should be... Explain the equation of every possibility=every possible wire.

2) Take a stab at it with some of the higher gauge Lutron or Crestron wire and maybe it will be right maybe not.

3) Explain the conundrum up front and decline to wire for shades if they cannot at least narrow it down to a couple options.

Just please don't be that guy who runs a single 16/2 speaker wire and single Cat5 to the AV headend from the window and say it's wired for everything.