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Topic:
Need some "power bridge" type advice for a thick wall
This thread has 11 replies. Displaying all posts.
Post 1 made on Tuesday August 18, 2015 at 18:27
elannut
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I am installing a power bridge on two walls for a TV on top of a fireplace.


The fireplace wall is standard drywall and I will be putting a female ac outlet there with a low voltage pass through also. The male ac inlet is going to be place in a wall that is quite thick. (actually a cabinet that has a 2.5 wall thickness). The typical power bridge kits will not work here as their tabs are made for walls much less thick. So I was going to put in a single gang box and secure it with Madison clips or F- clips and then get a recessed male ac plug and secure it. Then I was going to drill a separate low voltage cable hole and put some sought of trim on it.

So my question is: What would be a better solution for putting a male ac inlet into a very thick wood wall where typical drywall clips can not be used



Bill

Last edited by elannut on August 18, 2015 18:35.
BK
Post 2 made on Tuesday August 18, 2015 at 18:41
Neurorad
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Would a Decora male work?



Alternatively, you may be able to attach the tabs of the box to the cabinet, and not the drywall plus cabinet.
TB A+ Partner
Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha
OP | Post 3 made on Tuesday August 18, 2015 at 18:59
elannut
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Thanks Neurorad

I like the Decora. I am not sure if the alternate idea will work. Hard to explain but picture the fireplace in a wall and right beside it is a built in cabinet with 1 1/4 inch thick walls I believe that the drywall around the fireplace and the cabinet walls are flush and will act like a 2 inch plus wall


Maybe this with a male

Last edited by elannut on August 18, 2015 19:13.
BK
Post 4 made on Wednesday August 19, 2015 at 05:58
Neurorad
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You can probably just attach any j-box to a stud, proud of the stud surface by 1 - 2". Outlet and faceplate will mount flush to the cabinet surface, with a gap. Code says that gap has to be a minimum (1/4", maybe?). Box extenders are used if the gap is too large. This method is used fairly routinely, typically for tiled backsplashes.

That's a thick cabinet. Usually the back is thinner. Call the cabinet guy to confirm. He may also be able to assist with this junction box.
TB A+ Partner
Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha
Post 5 made on Wednesday August 19, 2015 at 07:23
Rob Grabon
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If it's a wood cabinet, why can't you just replace the dog ears with a wood screw and cut the hole appropriately to screw to the backing?
Technology is cheap, Time is expensive.
Post 6 made on Wednesday August 19, 2015 at 07:48
ShaferCustoms
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How about a Handy Box mounted to the back of the cabinet?
OP | Post 7 made on Wednesday August 19, 2015 at 13:43
elannut
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Neurorad: thanks would work
Rob: That would be too simple for me to think of (would work)
Shafercustoms: can't get to back of cab
thanks everyone
BK
Post 8 made on Wednesday August 19, 2015 at 16:29
Neurorad
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Today, my electrician showed me the AMP Sliderbox he uses, for new work.



[Link: alliedmoulded.com]

Won't work for your application, but hadn't seen it, and thought I'd share.

Woodworker can tell you exactly what to use.
TB A+ Partner
Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha
OP | Post 9 made on Wednesday August 19, 2015 at 20:16
elannut
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On August 19, 2015 at 07:23, Rob Grabon said...
If it's a wood cabinet, why can't you just replace the dog ears with a wood screw and cut the hole appropriately to screw to the backing?

On second thought Bob as I look at old work gang box's and their dog ears, I am not sure I can get this idea to work. A replaced screw would fall within the perimeter of the box. Perhaps there is a different style box that would allow the idea to work

BK
Post 10 made on Thursday August 20, 2015 at 11:09
KeithDBrown
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Can you just replace the old work box dog-ear screw with a longer screw and use it as designed?
OP | Post 11 made on Thursday August 20, 2015 at 13:49
elannut
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On August 20, 2015 at 11:09, KeithDBrown said...
Can you just replace the old work box dog-ear screw with a longer screw and use it as designed?

I actually do not know.


[Link: hammerzone.com]

The support for the dog ear screw only extends so far back. I do not know it it will be stable if longer one used. Thoughts?
BK
Post 12 made on Thursday August 20, 2015 at 16:28
KeithDBrown
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On August 20, 2015 at 13:49, elannut said...
I actually do not know.

[Link: hammerzone.com]

The support for the dog ear screw only extends so far back. I do not know it it will be stable if longer one used. Thoughts?

Hopefully you can make it work, I have definitely done it in the past, but it has been a little hit and miss. If you can get it to tighten down you shouldn't have any issues with it.


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