Hi,

I know the topic of installing in metal studs has been covered quite extensively in this forum, but I would like opinions on which of the following two options is better.

I'm mounting a 47" LED (34 lbs) with an articulating wall mount (26 lbs) that has a maximum extension of 18.7" into metal studs in my apartment. The dimensions of the wall plate for the mount are 18" x 8 1/4".

The wall on which I would like to mount the TV has three studs (standard 16" on center spacing) and I'd like to center my mount on this wall. I am contemplating two installation options that don't involve tearing up the wall and would like some opinions.

Option 1:
I'll install 3/4" plywood over the drywall and span three studs using Toggler Snaptoggles (1/4"-20 bolts) and fasten mount to this plate.  This back plate will have three of these togglers in each stud for a total of 9 togglers.  I'm unsure of the best way of fastening the mount to this wall plate; should I use togglers again and go through the plywood AND drywall?

Option 2:
I'll install two mild steel flat bars (1 1/4" wide by 1/8" thick) horizontally, long enough to span across three wall studs, again using Toggler Snaptoggles, and fasten mount to these metal bars. The mount will then be fastened to these bars.  This option is better described here.... [Link: raktron.com] with the exception that my installation will be in metal studs and I'll use the Toggler Snaptoggles.  Again, I'm unsure of the best way of fastening the mount to these metal plates.  The article has described a method but I was wondering If I could use togglers to go through the metal AND drywall?

I like option 2, as it allows the TV to sit closer to the wall, as I only plan on extending the TV away from the wall on few occasions. But the advantage of option 1 is that The load will be dispersed over a wider area and more bolts.

I appreciate your thoughts/criticisms. Thanks!

Why not direct into the metal studs with the anchors? If it off center?

You could go straight to the metal studs. Just make sure you are really in the stud. But because of how I am I'd cut out a section of drywall that's 3 studs wide and replace the drywall with 3/4" plywood mounted to the studs with togglers. Then I would toggle bolt through the ply into the stud. And my way is WAY overkill.

As there is a stud right in the center of the wall and the wall mount will only span two studs (mounting plate is 18" wide), the mount would be way off center if mounted directly into studs.


This is probably optimal but I'm hoping not to open up the wall.

For a tv that small and light I would be fine with drilling the mount and making my own hole in mount and them catching a metal stud with 2 hilti toglers and using toglers on the factory holes then

So are you suggesting that I just catch the center stud with two togglers and the rest of the togglers in just drywall will be fine? This certainly would make my job easier but keep in mind that it's an articulating mount and can extend out 18".

i thought i was clear! yes. provided you catch the stud and then use the factory holes as well

it is overkill but that TV isn't going anywhere. Save the piece of drywall and when you move out patch it later yourself or tip the maintenance guy $40.00 to do it for you.

I really don't see any overkill here? It's the right way and only way IMO. It is articulating and there is a high degree of torque load when pulled out. Better safe then sorry. I'll do a flat mount directly to studs as long as its under 75lbs. Anything heavier gets the plywood.

Most buildings that have metal studs have 5/8" fire rated Sheetrock, what I do is cut the section out of the drywall and replace with 5/8" cabinet grade plywood. I'll then tape the joint and use fast setting joint compound and feather it in. I then do a second coat and when that's dry I'll sand it and then have the customer paint the area. The plywood is smooth and when you pull the tv out it won't be fugly, it blends in so well you could pull the tv off and never know it was plywood.

I should also mention I use a Forsner bit to recess the bolt holes and use ml ready patch to fill the holes. This entire process really isn't that hard and helps me sleep at night knowing if the building were to ever collapse the mount would still be bolted to the wall in the rubble :)

I'd cut the drywall and do it right, and have someone repair drywall and paint after. It's not that expensive to fix drywall.

Cut the dry wall and put 2x6's in the the wall mounted to the studs using galvanized drywall screws or deck screws. Then put the drywall back up, then put the bracket up. On a job like this, if I can, I will trace the bracket ont he wall, and cut the drywall smaller than my trace and support from the inside. that way one the bracket is back on the wall, you don't see where I cut. Sometimes this isn't optimal.

Hit the studs and you'll be fine, as long as you don't just use screws (even though that would probably be strong enough, but you don't want to give your insurance a workout).

If you really want overkill or there's a possibility that you would use a large plasma TV later and you don't mind doing a bit of drywall patching, you could remove a piece of drywall that's slightly smaller than the TV and two stud spaces wide + half of the width of each stud at the outside ends, slide a piece of wooden 2x4 into the space and screw those to the metal studs- use togglers if you want. Making these about 3' long will keep the wall from bowing if the TV is heavier. Once they're in place, re-install the drywall, patch it and install the mount, screwing into the wooden studs.

We did this in a high-rise that had metal studs 24" O.C. and the guy wanted to be able to turn his 50" LG plasma 90 degrees, so we had to use the big Chief mount that weighs about 80 lb. Once that was up, the guy I was working with hung from it while it was fully extended and the wall didn't move- he went about 230 lb at the time.

I can't quite picture how the wooden studs would be placed such that they wouldn't interfere with reinstalling the drywall?

Yeah, for instance, are you trying to get those 2x4s to fit into the space "inside" the steel stud, so you effectively have a wood-lined steel stud? (Actually, that's not a bad idea, but you'd have to mill the wood a bit to make it fit.)

Are you placing them so the 3 1/2" side is behind the drywall, or the 1 1/2" side is behind the drywall? And are they placed horizontally or vertically?

And togglers? I now imagine the wood being 3 1/2" side to the drywall, with 1/2" holes all the way through so that togglers can be used, penetrating the drywall, then the wood. If you're going to use something heavy like a toggler that way, you'd be better off using a fender washer and a lag bolt.

Of course, I can't envision this, so I don't know what I'm talking about!

You guys need to stand up a couple of steel studs and take a closer look.

I know exactly what he is talking about and I've done it numerous times. You span the bays creating backing. one side of the 2x4 fits in the stud and screws in from the front and the other side screws in from the side
I've hung an LG 60PY3D (HEAVY) on a PDR articulating mount like this. That TV is still doing its thing today.