Oh, I was going to say that I'm happy with my Rigid 24V drill. I use it to drill big, C.V. pipe holes.
well lateda
:)
i borrowed one from a plumber that used it as a backup/when he was to lazy to start the generator. wasnt too impressed, it did what it needed todo but felt it was lacking
The Bitterness of Poor Quality is Remembered Long after the Sweetness of Price is Forgotten! - Benjamin Franklin
Example: You have a rectangular hole in the wall measuring 4 inches by 6 inches.
You cut a piece of drywall 7 inches by 9 inches (doesn't have to be exact, you want at least an inch "border" bigger than your hole in the wall. Inch and a half is better for larger holes.)
On the BACK SIDE of this piece of drywall you score with your drywall knife a rectangle slightly smaller than your 4x6 hole. Extend your score lines all the way to the edges of the piece of drywall.
Now you break the drywall at the score lines (still from the back) and DO NOT CUT the pieces off. Instead, you roll the gypsum and back paper off, leaving the front paper intact.
You should now have a piece of drywall with what is basically an oversized paper face.
Dry fit into the hole in case you have to clean up any little irregularities. Best fit is just a little loose. Now, with the patch laying on its face, you can butter some drywall compound around the solid center of the patch. Lay a big bevel along all sides. The object is that you can pick this patch up by the paper face and push it into the hole where that big bevel of compound will squeeze in (and probably some out) and fill the void around the sides.
Before you do that, however, you LIGHTLY spread some compound around the hole on the wall. Press the patch into the hole with the paper face facing you and then smooth those paper "flaps into the compound that you had on the wall. DO NOT press the patch in the middle any more than needed just to get it even with the existing wall surface. You don't want to inadvertently pop this patch into the wall cavity. It's not REAL easy to do that, but you'll learn real fast not to be too ham handed with this.
Smooth it, feather it out a little and let it sit. You shouldn't need more than one more thin coat over the whole thing later if you did it right.
This works well for round holes too. You just have to be a bit more fiddly when cutting the back sides off. I've patched round holes up to about 8 or 9 inch diameter and even with no backing blocks it's surprisingly strong.
It sounds a lot more complicated than it is. Once you do it a couple times it's really fast. Partly because you don't have to be as precise with the cuts. I've also used it where my electrician has cut a 4-gang box down to a 2-gang. So now I have a patch that only has the paper "flaps" on 3 sides because one edge is up against the new box. Still works great. Comes out really smooth, blends well, and you'll never see the edge of the patch because of those flaps.
Example: You have a rectangular hole in the wall measuring 4 inches by 6 inches.
You cut a piece of drywall 7 inches by 9 inches (doesn't have to be exact, you want at least an inch "border" bigger than your hole in the wall. Inch and a half is better for larger holes.)
On the BACK SIDE of this piece of drywall you score with your drywall knife a rectangle slightly smaller than your 4x6 hole. Extend your score lines all the way to the edges of the piece of drywall.
Now you break the drywall at the score lines (still from the back) and DO NOT CUT the pieces off. Instead, you roll the gypsum and back paper off, leaving the front paper intact.
You should now have a piece of drywall with what is basically an oversized paper face.
Dry fit into the hole in case you have to clean up any little irregularities. Best fit is just a little loose. Now, with the patch laying on its face, you can butter some drywall compound around the solid center of the patch. Lay a big bevel along all sides. The object is that you can pick this patch up by the paper face and push it into the hole where that big bevel of compound will squeeze in (and probably some out) and fill the void around the sides.
Before you do that, however, you LIGHTLY spread some compound around the hole on the wall. Press the patch into the hole with the paper face facing you and then smooth those paper "flaps into the compound that you had on the wall. DO NOT press the patch in the middle any more than needed just to get it even with the existing wall surface. You don't want to inadvertently pop this patch into the wall cavity. It's not REAL easy to do that, but you'll learn real fast not to be too ham handed with this.
Smooth it, feather it out a little and let it sit. You shouldn't need more than one more thin coat over the whole thing later if you did it right.
This works well for round holes too. You just have to be a bit more fiddly when cutting the back sides off. I've patched round holes up to about 8 or 9 inch diameter and even with no backing blocks it's surprisingly strong.
It sounds a lot more complicated than it is. Once you do it a couple times it's really fast. Partly because you don't have to be as precise with the cuts. I've also used it where my electrician has cut a 4-gang box down to a 2-gang. So now I have a patch that only has the paper "flaps" on 3 sides because one edge is up against the new box. Still works great. Comes out really smooth, blends well, and you'll never see the edge of the patch because of those flaps.
now i know what your talking about! i saw that done on DIY and thought i would try that next time i dont have the piece of drywall that was cut out.
what i do, when i have to cut holes and patch is i cut them out, number them and place reference points on the wall and the piece i cut out. that way i just get some 1x3 slap them up and im done.
if its a project thats over a few days and im going to lose the pieces i cut out then i use my LSD ez mark and mark on the wall for a double gang box. that way when it comes i can mark it on a piece of drywall and cut it out with my zip saw inside the line and works perfect everytime.
I keep various lengths of 1x3's precut in a bucket in my trailer. lengths from 5 1/2 inches to 2 feet with drywall screws in my bag with a area in my trailer dedicated to drywall repair. having this makes it so quick for me to throw a patch up and in.
The Bitterness of Poor Quality is Remembered Long after the Sweetness of Price is Forgotten! - Benjamin Franklin
Example: You have a rectangular hole in the wall measuring 4 inches by 6 inches.
You cut a piece of drywall 7 inches by 9 inches (doesn't have to be exact, you want at least an inch "border" bigger than your hole in the wall. Inch and a half is better for larger holes.)
On the BACK SIDE of this piece of drywall you score with your drywall knife a rectangle slightly smaller than your 4x6 hole. Extend your score lines all the way to the edges of the piece of drywall.
Now you break the drywall at the score lines (still from the back) and DO NOT CUT the pieces off. Instead, you roll the gypsum and back paper off, leaving the front paper intact.
You should now have a piece of drywall with what is basically an oversized paper face.
Dry fit into the hole in case you have to clean up any little irregularities. Best fit is just a little loose. Now, with the patch laying on its face, you can butter some drywall compound around the solid center of the patch. Lay a big bevel along all sides. The object is that you can pick this patch up by the paper face and push it into the hole where that big bevel of compound will squeeze in (and probably some out) and fill the void around the sides.
Before you do that, however, you LIGHTLY spread some compound around the hole on the wall. Press the patch into the hole with the paper face facing you and then smooth those paper "flaps into the compound that you had on the wall. DO NOT press the patch in the middle any more than needed just to get it even with the existing wall surface. You don't want to inadvertently pop this patch into the wall cavity. It's not REAL easy to do that, but you'll learn real fast not to be too ham handed with this.
Smooth it, feather it out a little and let it sit. You shouldn't need more than one more thin coat over the whole thing later if you did it right.
This works well for round holes too. You just have to be a bit more fiddly when cutting the back sides off. I've patched round holes up to about 8 or 9 inch diameter and even with no backing blocks it's surprisingly strong.
It sounds a lot more complicated than it is. Once you do it a couple times it's really fast. Partly because you don't have to be as precise with the cuts. I've also used it where my electrician has cut a 4-gang box down to a 2-gang. So now I have a patch that only has the paper "flaps" on 3 sides because one edge is up against the new box. Still works great. Comes out really smooth, blends well, and you'll never see the edge of the patch because of those flaps.
Any photos of the process?
Defectus tuus consilium carpere discrimen mihi non constituit.
whoever linked to the corded right angle gear reduced milwaukee. nice job! i hope that was a joke? did you happen to see where he mentioned for use in attics/ tight spaces? anyway, this tool posted below is a must have for every CI. it is a ryobi, but dont let it fool you. i dont have anything else ryobi but for tight spaces like drilling from crawlspace up into exterior wall where the sill plate and foundation keeps you from drilling straight up or attic drilling down into exterior wall. the battery rotates to rally help it get where you need it. the only draw back is the 3/8" chuck. it is well suited to paddle bits and paddle bit extensions. if you know where to look you can find 3/8" shank short auger bits. its not a power house but has saved my ass dozens of times.
Forget about the blowout patch. It's a PITA. This is 100x better. [Link: allwaytools.com] 4"x4", 6"x6" and 8"x8" Cleaner, faster' and a much better repair. Just stick over area to be repaired and spackle. Try it and you will never use a blowout patch again.
100% agreement, its not worth it anymore and i have gotten so good and quick at drywall repair its not worth it dealing with a tight attic. repairing drywall is simple and quick and i charge extra for it lol
Not always an option though. Wood paneling, faux painted walls, etc.
Man ---- I'm shocked nobody has listed this one: [Link: amazon.com]
IMHO It's by far the best one. - good work light on it, fits in super tight spaces, and won't rip your arm off.
I use it for hole saws, and all of my spade bit drilling - when not using the cordless.
You do have to be very careful of it's trigger when it's "hot" - And I have a scar on my forearm to prove that point. - but that's true of a lot of these right angle drills.
Next to my drill/impact driver this is my next baby. The only thing is, it has so much torque and power that if you dont have a proper bit and it binds it will throw you off your ladder....hard lesson to learn :)
I just bought this [Link: homedepot.com] last week for 20 bucks, and used it about a dozen times this week with my cordless Milwaukee, worked perfectly. Best of all, I don't have to lug around another heavy tool.
On January 21, 2011 at 20:22, anyhomeneeds said...
I just bought this [Link: homedepot.com] last week for 20 bucks, and used it about a dozen times this week with my cordless Milwaukee, worked perfectly. Best of all, I don't have to lug around another heavy tool.
i can appreciate that but there is no comparison between that combined with regular cordless drill and a true cordless right angle drill. just the shear footprint alone. also the fact it cant be used with one hand rules it out of most of the applications where you would actually need it.
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