|
|
 |
|
The following page was printed from RemoteCentral.com:
|
Solved: Samsung TV's and the PC input...
| |
|
| Topic: | Solved: Samsung TV's and the PC input shutting TV off when PC is turned off This thread has 25 replies. Displaying posts 1 through 15. |
|
| Post 1 made on Sunday May 16, 2010 at 12:01 |
Duct Tape Loyal Member |
Joined: Posts: | November 2008 5,224 |
|
|
When you use the PC input on a Samsung television, the TV shuts off if no signal is detected. The only easy way to turn the TV back on, is to turn the PC back on. The hard way to get the TV to turn back on, is to turn the TV off, then turn it back on and send it a different video input command at a specific time. It is driving me crazy having to explain to customers that they need to switch inputs before the PC fully shuts down, or make sure the PC is on if the TV won't turn on. My "workaround" so far is to switch to the component input on my shutdown macro. But that doesnt help if they shut off the PC before shutting down the system. I guess if I used a control system that could trigger macros from a voltage sensor state change, then I could make a more reliable work around, but most of my installs use Nevo, and they don't have that capability. Anyone know if this auto shut off can be disable in a service menu or something inside the Samsung? The Samsung troubleshooting guide shows this as normal opereration. These are the models I've been working with that I can remember: LNT4671 UN46B6000 PN42B450 Solution: Break off Pin number 10 on the vga connector that gets plugged into the TV. If you are worried about damaging the cable, use a short male to female VGA extension, and break the pin off the male end.
Last edited by Duct Tape on May 19, 2010 20:41.
|
|
|
| Post 2 made on Sunday May 16, 2010 at 12:34 |
roddymcg Loyal Member |
Joined: Posts: | September 2003 6,796 |
|
|
Check the CEC setting in the display, then turn them off. Seems like this cause more problems than it fixes...
|
When good enough is not good enough. |
|
| OP | Post 3 made on Sunday May 16, 2010 at 12:38 |
Duct Tape Loyal Member |
Joined: Posts: | November 2008 5,224 |
|
|
isn't that only used with HDMI? I should have mentioned, the PC Input is a VGA connector.
|
|
|
| Post 4 made on Sunday May 16, 2010 at 12:46 |
kstrange Long Time Member |
Joined: Posts: | February 2007 379 |
|
|
If you can't find any other alternative maybe you can find a cheap amplified VGA splitter to put inline.
Maybe it will still see something and remain on?
It's a shot in the dark and I have no clue if it will work.
|
|
| OP | Post 5 made on Sunday May 16, 2010 at 13:33 |
Duct Tape Loyal Member |
Joined: Posts: | November 2008 5,224 |
|
|
On May 16, 2010 at 12:46, kstrange said...
If you can't find any other alternative maybe you can find a cheap amplified VGA splitter to put inline.
Maybe it will still see something and remain on?
It's a shot in the dark and I have no clue if it will work. many of our installs already have a vga splitter in line. sorry to say that doesnt fix it :(
Last edited by Duct Tape on May 16, 2010 16:19.
|
|
|
| Post 6 made on Sunday May 16, 2010 at 16:09 |
SV650S Select Member |
Joined: Posts: | June 2006 1,645 |
|
|
Are you making your own cables or are you usinc premade cables? When you make your own you do not get the feedback/status from the monitor (your tv) so it will not shut down when the pc does. You also do not get any auto formatting but in most instances that is no big loss. VGA 15 Pin Connector Pinout
Connector pinout for: VGA 15 Pin VGA = Video Graphics Adapter or Video Graphics Array Videotype: Analogue. VGA (31.5 KHz - 640x480) SVGA (35-37 KHz - 800x600)
15 PIN HIGHDENSITY D-SUB FEMALE at the videocard
15 PIN HIGHDENSITY D-SUB MALE at the monitor cable
Pin Name Dir Description 1 RED OUT Red Video (75 ohm, 0.7 V p-p) 2 GREEN OUT Green Video (75 ohm, 0.7 V p-p) 3 BLUE OUT Blue Video (75 ohm, 0.7 V p-p) 4 ID2 IN Monitor ID Bit 2 5 GND - Ground 6 RGND - Red Ground 7 GGND - Green Ground 8 BGND - Blue Ground 9 KEY - Key (No pin) 10 SGND - Sync Ground 11 ID0 IN Monitor ID Bit 0 GND=Color; NC=Mono 12 ID1 or SDA IN Monitor ID Bit 1 NC=Color; GND=Mono Some systems only uses ID0 for monitor ID 13 HSYNC or CSYNC OUT Horizontal Sync (or Composite Sync) 14 VSYNC OUT Vertical Sync 15 ID3 or SCL IN Monitor ID Bit 3 Notes Direction is Computer relative Monitor
References
Matrox G200 Flat Panel Add-On - User Guide Monitor Pinouts Category: Computer Video Connectors
Something left uncovered? You are welcome to add information, explanations and fix errors, simply by clicking the edit link that appears on top of this page. There is no need to worry about accidentally damaging AllPinouts when adding or improving information, as other editors are always around to advise or correct obvious errors, and AllPinouts's software, known as MediaWiki, is carefully designed to allow easy reversal of editorial mistakes.
|
|
| OP | Post 7 made on Sunday May 16, 2010 at 16:21 |
Duct Tape Loyal Member |
Joined: Posts: | November 2008 5,224 |
|
|
so if I were to build my own cable to put inline on the back of each tv, would there be certain pin(s) that don't get connected? or is just building my own cable, pin for pin, enough to disable the status? Could I modify a premade male to female cable?
|
|
|
| Post 8 made on Sunday May 16, 2010 at 16:22 |
fonzanoon Active Member |
Joined: Posts: | March 2007 646 |
|
|
theres nothing in the menu for energy saving or something like that?/ Thats typically where the auto turn off feature is. Im sure you went thru the menus already but sometimes things go overlooked..
|
Cedia Certified King of the Ring |
|
| OP | Post 9 made on Sunday May 16, 2010 at 16:23 |
Duct Tape Loyal Member |
Joined: Posts: | November 2008 5,224 |
|
|
nope, the energy saving feature doesnt have an effect one way or the other.
|
|
|
| Post 10 made on Sunday May 16, 2010 at 16:36 |
fonzanoon Active Member |
Joined: Posts: | March 2007 646 |
|
|
how about some type of converter to change from vga to component or dare i even joke hdmi? i know its not ideal but it may make the system work smooth and i'm sure you can get something relatively inexpensive.
|
Cedia Certified King of the Ring |
|
| Post 11 made on Sunday May 16, 2010 at 16:47 |
SV650S Select Member |
Joined: Posts: | June 2006 1,645 |
|
|
Using bulk mini coax and 2 coax to db15c adapters should take caew of your problem. Extron and Liberty make them as well as many others.
|
|
| OP | Post 12 made on Sunday May 16, 2010 at 16:49 |
Duct Tape Loyal Member |
Joined: Posts: | November 2008 5,224 |
|
|
On May 16, 2010 at 16:36, fonzanoon said...
how about some type of converter to change from vga to component or dare i even joke hdmi? i know its not ideal but it may make the system work smooth and i'm sure you can get something relatively inexpensive. that would open up another can of worms with making the resolutions work properly. I'm already using the single component input on the TVs, and i'm not trying to throw extra parts at the problem. I do use the HDMI input when possible to avoid the issue, but this current install has this PC distributed to a bunch of zones via VGA. And some of my other sources that I have used this input for previously have been VGA only (navigation equipment, I work on boats) I was hoping that there was something in a service menu that could be changed.
|
|
|
| Post 13 made on Sunday May 16, 2010 at 16:54 |
jimstolz76 Loyal Member |
Joined: Posts: | December 2007 5,607 |
|
|
Do you have a control system in place that could monitor the power state of the TV and issue whatever crazy string of events to get it back on properly?
|
|
|
| OP | Post 14 made on Sunday May 16, 2010 at 17:17 |
Duct Tape Loyal Member |
Joined: Posts: | November 2008 5,224 |
|
|
On May 16, 2010 at 16:54, jimstolz76 said...
Do you have a control system in place that could monitor the power state of the TV and issue whatever crazy string of events to get it back on properly? when I do URC it isnt an issue, but Nevo that we do 90% of the time doesnt do externally triggered macros unless I create a widget that would poll the device constantly, but that would cause the remote to run really slow. as it is, i do monitor the state of the televisions using Xantech current sensors and a nevo voltage adapter. The problem is, that the TV doesnt totally turn off, it is in a standby state from the PC being off, and that it is still drawing enough current that the current sensor thinks the TV is on. I wish I could adjust the sensor to tell the difference between Off and Standby, but I have a hard enough time adjusting them to tell the difference between on and off, especially on the LED televisions. If I did happen to get it adjusted to tell the difference between off and standby, I wouldnt trust it to work reliably over the course of time.
|
|
|
| Post 15 made on Sunday May 16, 2010 at 17:26 |
39 Cent Stamp Elite Member |
Joined: Posts: | May 2007 17,501 |
|
|
Any reason you cant leave the PC on all the time? Maybe have them only shut it down when the boat isn't being used.
|
Avid Stamp Collector - I really love 39 Cent Stamps |
|
 |
Before you can reply to a message... |
You must first register for a Remote Central user account - it's fast and free! Or, if you already have an account, please login now. |
Please read the following: Unsolicited commercial advertisements are absolutely not permitted on this forum. Other private buy & sell messages should be posted to our Marketplace. For information on how to advertise your service or product click here. Remote Central reserves the right to remove or modify any post that is deemed inappropriate.
|
|