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Topic:
1/4 x 2 1/4 Tapcon Screws for 32" LCD Flat Panel Install
This thread has 31 replies. Displaying posts 1 through 15.
Post 1 made on Friday November 13, 2009 at 18:57
tca
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I have a job where I need to install ten 32" LCD tv's weighing approx 37 lbs onto concrete cinderblock. The mounts come with options for concrete, but I was wondering if anyone has ever used tapcon screws for this type of application? Will they hold as well as other options? I would like to use 4 tapcon screws per mount. The mount I will be using is the standard peerless tilt mount for 32" tv's.
Post 2 made on Friday November 13, 2009 at 19:10
The_Steve_Man
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Should work as long as you don't put them in the morter.
There is a great need for a Sarcasm font!
Post 3 made on Friday November 13, 2009 at 20:31
mrtristan
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Dude, I just mounted four Omnimount ceiling brackets holding 40 inch LCDTVs with four of exactly the same screws you're talking about in a cafe directly above tables. I was able to hang on to the bracket but the thought of these falling off will never leave my mind. Come to think of it, the screws I used were less than two inches.
Post 4 made on Friday November 13, 2009 at 20:35
SignatureSV
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im an overkill type guy, I use these ALL the time. Available at Lowes or Home Depot.

Hope you have a hammer drill, makes a WORLD of difference.

[Link: itwredhead.com]

You just have to be careful not to drill too far otherwise your in for a world of hurt. Just what "Steve" said dont drill into the mortor.
The Bitterness of Poor Quality is Remembered Long after the Sweetness of Price is Forgotten! - Benjamin Franklin
Post 5 made on Friday November 13, 2009 at 20:45
Hasbeen
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On November 13, 2009 at 20:35, SignatureSV said...
im an overkill type guy, I use these ALL the time. Available at Lowes or Home Depot.

Hope you have a hammer drill, makes a WORLD of difference.

[Link: itwredhead.com]

You just have to be careful not to drill too far otherwise your in for a world of hurt. Just what "Steve" said dont drill into the mortor.

I second this....Drill the hole, hammer it in, twist the nut  and that thing is never coming out. Not only could you hang a TV from it, you could probably hang a Honda from it.  

Started using these after I split too many lead anchors in half pieces of crap.
Post 6 made on Friday November 13, 2009 at 21:21
39 Cent Stamp
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On November 13, 2009 at 20:31, mrtristan said...
Dude, I just mounted four Omnimount ceiling brackets holding 40 inch LCDTVs with four of exactly the same screws you're talking about in a cafe directly above tables. I was able to hang on to the bracket but the thought of these falling off will never leave my mind. Come to think of it, the screws I used were less than two inches.

I had the same feeling after mounting a 63" plasma above a fire place with an omnimount articulating bracket. The whole bracket looks beefy except for the 5"X5" piece that connected the arm to the TV. They say its safe, i can hang off of it so i know its safe but it sure doesnt seem safe.

We had a client once who was nervous that we were mounting all the gear in the racks with those tiny screws LOL.
Avid Stamp Collector - I really love 39 Cent Stamps
Post 7 made on Friday November 13, 2009 at 21:33
Hasbeen
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Here's one of my favorite stories. When the Pioneer Elite Plasma first came out years ago (When the 42 was 15k) I watched with my own eyes as the Pioneer rep, during a demo hung one of those things with 4 drywall screws and 4 washers.  I almost pissed myself. 

He only did it for demo purposes, Then he turns around and says, "I don't recommend this".  No friggin kiddin' you don't recommend it. 

He claimed that because of the design of a flat mount bracket, the TV pulls straight down so as long as your in studs your fine.

I always just figured that he left his tools at home. 

I still don't have the huevos to try it.
OP | Post 8 made on Friday November 13, 2009 at 22:01
tca
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On November 13, 2009 at 20:45, Hasbeen said...
I second this....Drill the hole, hammer it in, twist the nut  and that thing is never coming out. Not only could you hang a TV from it, you could probably hang a Honda from it.  

Started using these after I split too many lead anchors in half pieces of crap.

How deep should the hole be? I don't want to drill to deep and mess it up..

I have a dewalt drill with a hammer function. When you drill the hole, do you use the hammer function with the supplied bit from tapcon, or do you use the normal drill setting? It would seem like the hammer would make the hole wider because of the hammer vibration?

Also, do you keep the drill on hammer when you are actually screwing in the tapcon screw? I watched a video and they said to drill it in slowly and NOT to overtighten at all. How tight to you guys go?

Wait, I don't know if you are confused, but this is the screw I am talking about

[Link: tapcon.com]
Post 9 made on Friday November 13, 2009 at 22:47
39 Cent Stamp
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I make the hole 1/8" deeper than the tap con. I usually buy the tap cons that have a masonry bit included so i don't have to guess what size to buy with them.

I use hammer setting to drill the hole and drill setting for driving them in. Speed is set to 1 and i have the torque / chuck set to maximum. I like the ones with HEX heads. I use a hex driver with them.

I have never mounted a TV with them but i have mounted outdoor speakers, XM, FM antennas and satellite dishes.

Adding.. Once they are in.. they are in. Your not going to be able to back them out without snapping the heads off. In my experiences with them anyway.
Avid Stamp Collector - I really love 39 Cent Stamps
Post 10 made on Saturday November 14, 2009 at 05:59
Intecon
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I use 1/4" Tapcon's all the time for TV's and have never had a problem. Everything down here is concrete.
The hex head version is the only one I will use. And they can be taken out if need be.

Hammer drill for the hole, 1/8 to 1/4 deeper than length of tapcon
and then a 5/16" socket to tighten.
Post 11 made on Saturday November 14, 2009 at 07:20
vwpower44
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If it is a questionable install in the Cinder, I will always ad some PS Concrete Construction Adhesive. The Only problem is the screws will never come....I am serious!! Another options is to use Toggle Bolts. We get the 4" long Toggles that require 5/8 hole. Then we put the Toggle whenever we hit the hollow par t of the cinder.
Stay Hungry, Stay Foolish...
OP | Post 12 made on Saturday November 14, 2009 at 10:53
tca
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I bought the 2 1/4 length tapcons with a philips head. I didn't see ones with hex heads at home depot... Unless maybe i did... do they also have a straight head for a screwdriver on them?

Are the 2 1/4 tapcons too long for cinderblocks? What length do you guys normally use? I normally use #14 2 1/2 wood screws for regular stud installs, so I tried to pick out something similar for concrete, but I'm not sure if I need them that long. I don't want to drill through and hit a hollow spot. That may weaken the holding strength.
Post 13 made on Saturday November 14, 2009 at 14:30
audioslayve
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Hot glue..
The optimist claims the glass is half full; the pessimist claims it is half empty. An engineer observes that the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

Ps, you can't fix stupid
Post 14 made on Saturday November 14, 2009 at 14:39
davidcasemore
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Use Tap-Con with Hex head.
Use bit that comes with Tap-Con Screws.
Use hammer drill to drill hole.
Use impact drill to drive screws. I have a Panasonic cordless drill with impact driver setting - works great (especially when hanging Panasonic displays;-)
Fins: Still Slamming' His Trunk on pilgrim's Small Weenie - One Trunk at a Time!
OP | Post 15 made on Saturday November 14, 2009 at 18:04
tca
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Does the tapcon with hex head have a flat bit or philips or something else?
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