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What did you do today?
This thread has 11407 replies. Displaying posts 5866 through 5880.
Post 5,866 made on Tuesday June 21, 2011 at 07:47
bassale
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Mario,

Great common sense advice. I have to admit that I never considered it, but plan to implement in future.

Cheers,
Post 5,867 made on Tuesday June 21, 2011 at 11:22
alihashemi
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On June 21, 2011 at 00:41, mariomp said...
First of all, nice work.
I won't give you too much shit about the emmiters, but my advice is this: install the emmiter for testing, programming, etc., but when done, remove it and use the 3.5mm plug on the back. There is no programming change required, it's just plug and play, and it looks a lot better.

Mario

I totally agree; and to be honest, I've only had the rear IR input fail me once. The connecting block IR sensitivity was low, we just turned it up and it worked fine.
Ali Hashemi
Post 5,868 made on Tuesday June 21, 2011 at 12:20
SB Smarthomes
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On June 20, 2011 at 20:53, bassale said...
Hi Paul,

Thanks for the feedback. I always look forward to your posts because I know you put a lot of time and effort on your projects. They always show a high level of craftsmanship and attention to detail.

Thank you.... that's a nice compliment!

On June 20, 2011 at 20:53, bassale said...
I know I'm going to take a LOT of flak for this, but I like to see the emitters working. It helps the troubleshooting process (IR working, IR routing, etc.), and I rarely (seriously, almost never) have issues with them falling off.

I think that's a good enough reason.  I've resorted to emitters sometimes to troubleshoot issues, but as others have already mentioned, I'll swap back to the cable once things are sorted.  If you have to troubleshoot after the initial install it's easy enough to plug an emitter back in if needed.

On June 20, 2011 at 20:53, bassale said...
By the way, your photos of burying the emitter inside the Samsung bezel were impressive. I know how much effort this must have taken.

It's really not that hard... I could do that same TV now in less than 15 minutes.  The problem is that TV models change so often it seems like you always have to try something a little different.

On June 20, 2011 at 20:53, bassale said...
The ventilation for the family room rack is a Mid Atl cool cab with vent slots in the toe kick and the fans pulling air into a hallway behind the cabinet. For the media room, there is a Mid Atl cool cab in the inside of the cabinet pulling heat away from the equipment right of the center speaker area and a second fan on the far left side of the cabinet (behind the guitar).

Good work!  Proper ventilation is one of the most overlooked issues that I run into. 
www.sbsmarthomes.com
Santa Barbara Smarthomes
Post 5,869 made on Tuesday June 21, 2011 at 12:27
SB Smarthomes
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On June 20, 2011 at 20:53, bassale said...
CFR racks kill, absolutely KILL, SRSR. SRSR only roll out far enough to spin. I can't tell you how many times I needed to reach my arm behind an SRSR but couldn't do it. Unloaded CFR racks weigh almost nothing and when burdened with only a few sources and an AVR can't be much over 75 or so pounds.

My advice is to use the CFR. You won't go back to the SRSR. We install them on almost every job.

On June 21, 2011 at 01:09, sofa_king_CI said...
 CFR's are great Paul, don't hesitate.

OK... looks like the next job that only requires a few rack spaces will be CFR.

A few questions:

1. Are you using the optional bottom sliders?

2. Is it a two man job to pull them out, or can one guy muscle one in/out without banging up the cabinetry.  Obviously this depends on equipment, but I'm thinking of a simple install with AVR, Blu-ray, Cable/Sat box, power conditioning and remote processor?  Similar to bassale's photos.

I know the SRSR racks can be a pain, but I still use them alot because I need more than 14 spaces for the majority of my installs which is what the CFR series maxes at.
www.sbsmarthomes.com
Santa Barbara Smarthomes
Post 5,870 made on Tuesday June 21, 2011 at 12:32
SB Smarthomes
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Yesterday I spent the morning at one of the local country clubs doing some Ethernet wiring for printers in the kitchen.

Maneuvering around in a working kitchen is a real PIA especially with a 10ft ladder.  Seemed like I was always in the way, or someone was in my way.  It's also hard to drill holes 14ft up without dropping crap down into the food prep and cooking areas.

First time I've worked in an open kitchen, but it was the only way to make the scheduling work.  I finished up at 11:30am right before the got busier for lunch.
www.sbsmarthomes.com
Santa Barbara Smarthomes
Post 5,871 made on Tuesday June 21, 2011 at 16:08
Mr. Stanley
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On June 21, 2011 at 12:32, SB Smarthomes said...
Yesterday I spent the morning at one of the local country clubs doing some Ethernet wiring for printers in the kitchen.

Maneuvering around in a working kitchen is a real PIA especially with a 10ft ladder.  Seemed like I was always in the way, or someone was in my way.  It's also hard to drill holes 14ft up without dropping crap down into the food prep and cooking areas.

First time I've worked in an open kitchen, but it was the only way to make the scheduling work.  I finished up at 11:30am right before the got busier for lunch.

LOL! I almost forgot about that! I worked in a country club kitchen and dining room (during open hours), and it was ridiculous! Never again! After hours from now on & adjust my labor rates up a bit due to the hassle factor,
"If it keeps up, man will atrophy all his limbs but the push-button finger."
Frank Lloyd Wright
Post 5,872 made on Tuesday June 21, 2011 at 17:19
bassale
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I used the sliders once, but feel that I can be careful enough without them. They add cost and time to install. There are no rough edges on the CFR, all edges turn up toward the inside of the rack. NOTE: We always lift the rack out of the cabinet and set on a drop cloth.

One guy will have no problem with this unless you load it with heavy gear.

Hope this helps.
Post 5,873 made on Tuesday June 21, 2011 at 23:21
39 Cent Stamp
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On June 20, 2011 at 20:53, bassale said...
CFR racks kill, absolutely KILL, SRSR. SRSR only roll out far enough to spin. I can't tell you how many times I needed to reach my arm behind an SRSR but couldn't do it. Unloaded CFR racks weigh almost nothing and when burdened with only a few sources and an AVR can't be much over 75 or so pounds.

+1

I literally HATE servicing old systems that have slide out racks. We have only used fixed racks for the last 5+ years and i will never go back.

The system you have for cabinets is great. Someone else (or maybe you) posted pics a while back where they did the same thing. Freaking genius. Just pull the whole rack out, wire it up and put it in the cabinet. Done.
Avid Stamp Collector - I really love 39 Cent Stamps
Post 5,874 made on Tuesday June 21, 2011 at 23:23
39 Cent Stamp
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On June 21, 2011 at 17:19, bassale said...
I used the sliders once, but feel that I can be careful enough without them. They add cost and time to install.

And every time you use them there is wear and tear. I have a 12 or 13 year old slide out rack that has been upgraded from Audio Ease to Crestron and every service call i wonder if today is the day that the last 2 screws give on the bottom plate. It will be such a pain in the neck to fix the rack.
Avid Stamp Collector - I really love 39 Cent Stamps
Post 5,875 made on Tuesday June 21, 2011 at 23:31
39 Cent Stamp
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On June 20, 2011 at 17:16, bassale said...
Photobucket

Is this a case of the TV's being level and the cabinet not being level? Or just an optical illusion.

I usually try and match the cabinet unless it's obvious that there is a slope. We had a job once where the client had a fancy glass wall mount shelving unit installed. We had 3 bookshelf speakers sitting on the floor under it. The floor had like a 2 inch drop from the Left to the right speaker. Looked awful. Without the speakers installed you couldn't tell. Really weird.
Avid Stamp Collector - I really love 39 Cent Stamps
Post 5,876 made on Wednesday June 22, 2011 at 00:05
BisyB
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Hung a 46" Samsung LED over a new fireplace on a remodel and brand new stone fireplace mantle was easily 3/4"-1" off level over a 48" span so we asked if they wanted the TV level or match the mantle...

First, they made me bring out my FatMax level to prove it was off and then...

They said match the mantle... it was worth a laugh.
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Post 5,877 made on Wednesday June 22, 2011 at 08:18
Ozzie Glenn
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If I am hanging a screen near other furniture or fixings I leave the level in the truck. I just measure from the piece of furniture, cornice or whatever is closest and match the measurement left and right on the bracket.
Wireless speakers? Of course Sir. Choose the colour and size you like. As you don't seem to think sound quality is important, I will not plug them in.
Post 5,878 made on Wednesday June 22, 2011 at 10:58
Innovative A/V
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On June 21, 2011 at 23:31, 39 Cent Stamp said...
Is this a case of the TV's being level and the cabinet not being level? Or just an optical illusion.

I usually try and match the cabinet unless it's obvious that there is a slope. We had a job once where the client had a fancy glass wall mount shelving unit installed. We had 3 bookshelf speakers sitting on the floor under it. The floor had like a 2 inch drop from the Left to the right speaker. Looked awful. Without the speakers installed you couldn't tell. Really weird.

The two side panels look "level" to the cabinent....it looks like the center is out
www.goinnovativeaudiovisual.com
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Post 5,879 made on Wednesday June 22, 2011 at 15:08
jimstolz76
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Yesterday I watched the guys cut this hole above a fireplace. In a couple days I get to install a big Chief motorized mount and steel backbox. Should be very interesting...

Post 5,880 made on Wednesday June 22, 2011 at 16:30
sofa_king_CI
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On June 21, 2011 at 17:19, bassale said...
I used the sliders once, but feel that I can be careful enough without them. They add cost and time to install. There are no rough edges on the CFR, all edges turn up toward the inside of the rack. NOTE: We always lift the rack out of the cabinet and set on a drop cloth.

One guy will have no problem with this unless you load it with heavy gear.

Hope this helps.

Ditto. We used the sliders once and now we put felt pads or we get those big rolls of industrial velcro and just stick a strip of the soft side down each side of the bottom, just to help slide out of cabinet.

I can pull everyone we've down out on my own. One thing we just did at a job was built a small four each high platform with wheels to just slide the rack onto and roll out of the way. I haven't worked with it yet so can't comment on if it was a good idea or not.

Working on programming a prodigy system today after spending last couple days getting gear installed. Media room is a Denon avr 3312 with totem 8" in-wall frons, tribe I center, 6.5" in ceiling surrounds and a storm sub. 6 zones od DA with episode 300 8" IC speakers and 2 outdoor areas with my favorite outdoors the episode ES-AW-6.

Putting in a binary 4x4 HDMi matrix with just two active zones along with two pamp's for 6 zones od DA (one is also a video zone with matrix. Control is PTX3 handheld for the two video zones (one 5.1 the other part of DA), in wall keypads for the two outdoor zones, a ptl4 in wall touch for kitchen/dining (2 zones linked as one) and iPhone control for the whole system.

Sources include Sonos zp90's, TiVo, bluray, atv2, xbox and mac mini. One local zone that is a Nuvo in wall amp, which they are just using Sonos on. We have just a couple loads of lighting control and are trying to get basic control of his GE concord security panel. Overall a pretty good project.

Have a few days of work left and then I'll be back in Idaho for about a week for a wedding, some golf and relaxation.....and probably some working remotely.
do wino hue?
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