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Topic:
MX-1200 and lighting
This thread has 7 replies. Displaying all posts.
Post 1 made on Wednesday June 29, 2016 at 15:06
5l1v3r
Long Time Member
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14
I'd like to thank everyone who is a part of this forum and your expertise!

I have the MX-1200/MRF-350 combo and become quite adept at programming this hog. Self-taught with lots of reading from this forum, and, well.... hours and hours of time in CCP. I have a pretty simple question (first post), and please forgive me in advance for my ignorance:

Is the MX-1200 compatible with the Vivdo series (418 Mhz) URC light control lineup?

I want to install dimmable LED strip lighting (cove lighting) to complete my super-duper-crown-moulding-project. If you have alternative recommendations, I am open to redirection. I just want to implement LED dimmable strip lighting for one (1) room.

Last edited by 5l1v3r on June 29, 2016 18:46.
That's what toys are for...
Post 2 made on Thursday June 30, 2016 at 07:16
goldenzrule
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Vivido is Zwave, which is not compatible with the MX-1200. The easiest way for you to add lighting is to source some of the older URC by Lutron lighthing devices. They have URC's RF technology built in so the remote can communicate directly with them. Unfortunately they are disco'd and have been for a couple of years, so you have to search a bit to find them. I cannot confirm if they work with LED lighting as I stopped using them due to the then pending disco before LED lighting really became mainstream. If you find they are compatible in your search, I might actually have an in-wall dimmer and a couple of in-wall switches that I removed from my house that I'd be willing to sell. I switched the rest of my system to Lutron Radio Ra2 and when we purchase a new house, I will build on the Ra2 system so will likely no longer need the URC lighting.
Post 3 made on Thursday June 30, 2016 at 18:38
JoeFlabitz
Select Member
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December 2008
1,517
Look for the MRFA-600M for dimmers, and MRFA-S6AM for a switch. The dimmers are not compatible with LED, but the switches can turn them on/off.
Post 4 made on Friday July 1, 2016 at 13:26
Control Remotes
Super Member
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3,429
Hello!

Vivido is only used with Total Control, not Complete Control (MX models).

I hope this helps clear things up.




Damon
Remote Programming Services for URC Remotes
http://www.PremierAVDesigns.com - 914-509-5360
Follow me on Twitter @HomeTheaterNY
OP | Post 5 made on Monday July 4, 2016 at 09:24
5l1v3r
Long Time Member
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After more research on LEDs, I decided to go with goldenzrule's recommendation. It is possible with MRFA-600M to utilize dimmable-rated 120V line voltage LED strips - up to 600W of draw of course. 120V LED strips are becoming quite affordable: I snagged a deal for $4.80/meter, SMD5630, 120 l/m, cuttable every 1 meter. RGB+W is not really technically available for 120V line voltage yet (as an easier install) as they are cruising on 12-24v low voltage band wagon - so I decided to use single color LED's @120V. Just plug it in, how easy is that?

Thanks for everyone's help!

Last edited by 5l1v3r on July 4, 2016 09:33.
That's what toys are for...
Post 6 made on Tuesday July 5, 2016 at 14:24
Control Remotes
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Just be mindful that LED lights (in any capacity) may still have issues with dimmers not rated specifically for LED, or even certified for specific LED bulbs or fixtures.

I hope this solution works well and you enjoy your new lighting setup!



Damon
Remote Programming Services for URC Remotes
http://www.PremierAVDesigns.com - 914-509-5360
Follow me on Twitter @HomeTheaterNY
OP | Post 7 made on Monday July 25, 2016 at 11:01
5l1v3r
Long Time Member
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So I heeded your advice prior to investing money into this project. It's good to listen to experience.
I have been experimenting with switches and LEDs using gracious return policies with certain stores. Turns out that LEDs/CFLs and dimmers are really not ready for prime time - in general - due to a lack of UL direction or lack of cooperation in the fluorescent/LED community. It centers around mostly lowest acceptable wattage output and/or the TRIAC tech (google it) signal. Companies like Lutron choose to do testing and provide a list of LEDs that passed - if you use another bulb - they just point to their list (does not solve the problem). Others like leviton spew horse dung by advertising "universal" dimmers - but in fact they are simply not solving the issues either; my testing demonstrated that the Leviton "universal" dimmers still require the same input requirements as a standard Lutron while probably installing a resistor to deal with the low wattage "ghost load". I did not test GE dimmers, I have no access. THEY ALL LEAK!
My issues manifested in all my dimmers. All tested dimmers have a ghost load (or leak) of some low wattage that the track lighting uses to ever so slightly glow. In other words, they won't turn off, they are still ever so slightly dimmed. Fluorescent bulbs tend to "flicker" while track lighting LEDs tend to slightly glow. No dimmer I tried would turn completely off. The ghost load is due to 2-wire switches leaking to power the extra functionality offered by the switch (like a night light, zwave, etc). It is said that neutral (3-wire) switches can offload the extra current and prevent this, but my testing showed the several 3-way dimmers yielded the same issues. I mean, if you use a simple on/off switch with no functionality, your golden. This problem is all over the Internet. I've wired some fixtures with neutral specifically just to test. I am now attempting to calculate the proper capacitance and solder a false load - or considering installing a switch in series and prior to dimmer. I have other ideas too.
Anyway, this has become less of a URC remote issue and more of how much the commercial companies have failed the consumer in bringing to market good solutions while also not educating the public that conversion to CFL/LED is not such an easy venture as switching bulbs. The good old days are gone for us. For example, only just in 2011 the national code was modified to force installation of neutral lines into every switch box. Expensive approach indeed! You'll have to read as to why neutral is important to the LED dimmer yourself if your interested; its too complicated to discuss in this thead - just know its important especially for home automation devices. My guess is that most houses were built before 2011 and won't have that neutral either. I will find a solution, but please do share any field workarounds!

Last edited by 5l1v3r on July 25, 2016 11:36.
That's what toys are for...
Post 8 made on Monday August 22, 2022 at 18:15
PTotaro
Junior Member
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November 2019
12
I realize this is an old post but thought this may be helpful to others trying to use URC Dimmers (600M/6MLV) for LED Lighting.
I could not find the minimum load requirement for these dimmers and after talking to Lutron they also had no documentation on the minimum load requirements, but going off their RadioRa line said it is probably 50 watts minimum load. The higher the load (watts / number of bulbs) of the LED lighting you are trying to control, the better your dimming results will be.

Using a Lutron LUT-MLC (resistor) will let the led bulbs turn completely off and help with dimming a little (got me to about 50% before flickering the bulbs). Others have also suggested using a 1.5 kOhms 1% 25W Wirewound Chassis Mount Resistor (RH0251K500FC02 / KAL25FB1K50 )

Using a Lutron LUT-LBX Synthetic Minimum Load For use with Reverse and Forward Phase Dimmers will let the led bulbs turn completely off and help with dimming better than the LUT-MLC. The LUT-LBX got my LED bulbs dimming down to about 15% with no flickering. EBay is your cheapest bet for the LUT-LBX. The LUT-LBX requires a double gang box for in-wall or surface mounting, but can be added anywhere after the dimmer switch and the first lamp.


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