Hi, everyone, I would very much appreciate your help in the following question as I am a complete newcomer in the whole IR concept.

I am using IR smart remote for android, that controls most devices by using codes from databases. However, I have several equipment that are not listed in the databases. Besides, even though some of the equipment I have are listed, the database doesn't provide the exact same buttons/functionalities.

IR smart remote (and other remote apps as far as i have searched) have the option to create buttons by entering the Pronto HEX format. So I need your advice on what equipment and / or software should I use, (on my PC preferably) that will allow me to capture any code from any of my remote controls. I think this is the first step. The second step would be to translate this code to Pronto HEX format.

Any help, much appreciated.

Best Regards,
Dionisis

I dont know if it any help, the only piece of equipment I currently have is a FLIRC device. Could I use this in combination to a software to help me out?

Your question is very general, so only general answers can be given to most of your topics. If you ask about specific software, remote brands and models, and component brands and models, we can answer about them.

For instance,

That is a world of thousands of models and there's no way to address it without offering huge amounts of information.

You want the codes in Pronto Hex, which is a great idea. Use a Pronto! As for capturing IR codes (we call it "learning" the codes into a device), I recommend that you buy a Pronto TS1000 or TSU2000. Those are obsolete as far as the market is concerned, and therefore not very expensive. They learn IR codes in Pronto HEX format. I carry a TS1000 with me AT ALL TIMES to be able to learn new IR codes for programming remotes. I have seen several IR learners, and only the Crestron learner, for which you probably cannot get the software, is better.

The software for it is in the Classic Pronto section of this site. It's called Pronto Edit and you want version 4. It's free. Once you have learned a code, you can open an edit window and see the Pronto Hex code, and copy and paste from there.

Your profile does not mention where you are; you might need to find out what the European models of this remote are and buy one of those.

IMO, a better approach is to buy an IRToy, and use it with IrScrutinizer. Works on 32/64 bit Windows, Linux, and MacOsX. Cheaper, and can learn signals like XMP, which Prontos struggle with. 

Thank you both for your answer! I prefer 3FG solution, not that the Pronto Idea is bad!

3FG, will I need any special knowledge to see the pronto hex format through the Irscrutinizer?

Also can Pronto or Irscrutinizer show codes of aircondition remotes, and virtually any remote, in Pronto HEX format?

*Ernie, sorry for not beeing more specific on the models that I need their Pronto Hex format of remote functions. One equipment I need to control is an Audio Analogue Puccine SE amplifier, the second is a Sharkoon Acoustics 5.1 speaker package, and the 3rd is a Toyotomi Akira aircondition... Also, an HDMI splitter (4x2) and other useless stuff! :-)

It would be good if I could buy for example a galaxy note 8 and by using the IRremote app to control all them....

No special knowledge needed.  I don't have an IRToy, so I'm not sure how many bits it can store.  I have used IrSrutinizer to look at a Hitachi air conditioner (264 bits) using an IR Widget to capture the data.  IRToy can be run in Widget mode if necessary.

3FG hi again,

sorry for taking up so much from your time, one more question pls.

I ordered the irtoy from evola website. I saw that in your last post you said, that you used IrScrutinizer and an IR widget to capture the data, while dont have an IRToy.. Did you use an alternative device, then? What is the IR widget? Could you please elaborate a bit more on that? Didn't you need a piece of hardware like IRtoy?

Thank you for your help.

The IR Widget is hardware.  At the moment, I don't know of a source for assembled Widgets, which is why I recommended IRToy. The IRWidget was originally developed by Kevin Timmerman, and Tommy Tyler produced very well made hardware.  I have one of those.  But Tommy has stopped selling any of his products.

Some folks have preferred the Widget approach for IR capturing, and a IRToy can be loaded with alternate firmware so that it acts as a Widget.  I suspect either approach is fine.

3FG,

I just received my IRtoy v2. I downloaded stuff, The computer rexognized it, and then tried winlirc.... nothing works! The tiny pcb is looking at me probably thinking I am an idiot and I am looking at it like its an alien. I don't know where to start....

any general guidelines, would be much appreciated...So far I have downloaded the USBIRToy.package.v22 and my PC has created (two ports) I think. Com 1 and Com 7. I then installed winlirc but whatever i try I get an error....

If and when you have time, any sort of help on how to make it work would be great... Pls

I don't have a IRToy, but the documentation for IrScrutinizer says that you need to plug the IRToy into a USB port, start IrScrutinizer, go to the Capturing Hardware pane, select IRToy tab, select the correct port, click Open.  Then you can click test or go to the Scrutinize Signal pane and click Capture.

I don't think you need to involve LIRC in any way.  It's probably best to ask other questions at hifi-remote.com.

I have downloaded irSrutinizer, and I have extracted it. But it doesn't have any executable. When I click to the IRScrutinizer, or the IrMastereasy or the IRMaster they show two folders (Meta-Ind and org), and don't do anything else. What should I do? What program do i need?

Ok done the above. DOnt need to answer. Trying to figure out how the program works...

I have to completely agree with you. The pronto is the single best learner I have experienced. Having lost (theft) my RTI learner, I have no current basis of comparison. I also carry my pronto around with me. Do you like the usa -19hs?

I recently had to build myself another pronto cable as the second tip on the 3.5 mm side (pin 3) had a short. Fortunately this site had an awesome description on how to do so.