What x-10 modules should I use to control amplifiers that do not receive IR commands? I planned to use a 4040 IR receiver and appliance modules all controlled by the Pronto. Or is there another way?

I have done just that, and it works great.

Another option,if your preamp has a 12 volt trigger, then you can use an x10 module (leviton burglar alarm interface 6330 from smarthome.com) that will send all on with voltage, and all off without voltage. Just use a different house code then the rest of you x10 stuff. I switched to that method, because I needed the 4040 for 4 sets of lights.

Aren't there some power strips that can also be controlled via a 12v trigger? That would take x-10 out of the loop and give you a straight shot at the power without an x-10 lag.

That's even better yet. I have not heard of that. Has anyone seen that anywhere?

I have seen a one outlet unit that is controlled by a 12 volt trigger, but it was expensive. I think I saw it at smathome.com. A power strip might be cheaper??

I'm not a big believer in Monster's stff, but they make the 2500,3500 and 5000 series "power conditioners" that have 12v inputs that turn on from your receiver. No idea what they cost though.

I found a device that will do what you guys want i think. Don't know how much it is though.

[Link: pinnell.com]

Or do what many of us do (especially with high power applications):

Leave the amps on!

-Scott S.

Or, make your own. You need:

1) Power strip (as plain or fancy as you want).
2) Lamp cord (cheap) extension cord.
3) box or housing of some kind.
4) 110V (or 12V for LV trigger) relay with
contacts rated for 110V / 10-15 amps.

I've used large relays from Heating/AC supply houses and smaller relays from Fry's Electronics or similar places.

Cut the cord to the power strip. The plug end will run from the receptacle to the relay (inside the box) and the power strip end will be "downstream" of the relay. You really only need to cut the hot (black) wire inside the cord, so that you don't need to reconnect the neutral and ground wires.

Wire the black wire across the relay's contact terminals.

Cut the female end off the cheapo extension cord. Wire the wires across the 110V rated relay coil. The wire, with the male (plug) end of the cord should exit the box.

Insulate the contacts and seal up the box to avoid exposed wires and connections.

With the cheapo extension cord plug inserted into any switched outlet on a receiver or preamp, the relay will complete the powerstrip circuit and turn on the amps when the receiver or preamp is turned on. The load won't exceed the receiver's switched outlet rating, and the powerstrip load is only limited by the ratings of the powerstrip and the relay's contacts.

To use 12V switching, just substitute a 12V coil relay and a different switching wire and plug (in place of the cheapo extension cord).

The parts should cost less than $30 - possibly much less. I've made several of these for my equipment and for friends, and they've all worked quite well.

Ross Taylor
Phoenix, AZ