I am looking for an X-10 compatible switch (wall mount) that will send "device code" - "on" when pushed and held, and then send "device code" -"off" when released.

An x-10 push-on "momentary switch" ?

Does anyone know if this is available? I have read about programmable switches that are pretty expensive. I was hoping for a simpler alternative.

I am yet to add a controller to my X-10 setup so I cannot use a macro at this point.

This would be to send a command to a drapery motor to open/close. I want to avoid having to push on and push off. I would rather push-hold and then release.
I do not want to have to remember to turn off the power once the motor has reached its end of travel.

Regards,
Ela

I would use an X10 switch transmitter with a contact closure module.
[Link: homeautomationnet.com]
[Link: homeautomationnet.com]
You will still need something to program the transmitting switch.

Bill
www.homeautomationnet.com

Thank you for the response Bill,
I purchased the drapery add-a-motor with a PAM01. This is all set up and runs fine using my IR remote and IR-543. The remote handles gererating the required macro commands.

I also recently ordered a PUM01 to run one zone of my sprinklers.

Now I want to add a "momentary" ~ 1.5 second -On/Off command sent to the existing PAM01 from a wall switch.

I understand that it might be possible to use the PUM01 to make a (timed) momentary contact closure by adding it in-line with the add-a-motor low voltage side (but maybe not hefty enough contacts?) This would get to be a bit messy since I already have the PAM01 in place.

I think I may have to wait until I add a controller to the sytem that can generate macros from a single input command.

Thanks for your input. I enjoy reading your posts as you provide guidance to others.

Regards,
Ela

Hello there.
I have just joined this forum, and am in Australia. I am interested in this X-10 stuff and think I have an answer for you:
I made a transmitter that takes relay contacts from an alarm panel and turns on/off x-10 modules as per the relay programming. The on / off control follows the input. IE contact closed sends ON, contact opens sends OFF. The only disadvantage is that my little device plugs into an XM10 interface in order to communicate with the network. This may or may not be too expensive for you, but I am not quite sure how much these things cost over there.

Thanks muddy0409,

I am also capable of desigining and building my own interface but do not want to get into it that deep. I was looking for a device that I could simply purchase and mount in an electrical box with a push button switch and have it do all the rest.

I am working on adding an x-10 controller to my system and once I do that I will be able to do macros that can do what I want.

I appreciate the reply,

Ela

Have you looked at the powerflash
[Link: homeautomationnet.com]

It can send an X10 command from a contact closure from a switch and will send opisite command when reset. It may do the job for you.

Bil
www.homeautomationnet.com

Thanks again Bill,

It looks like the powerflash would work fine. I am curious what the minimum time might be between an on/off transition. In other words what is the minimum pulse time that you could create with this device by toggling a switch input rapidly?

My only problem there would be packaging or running a wire from the PSC01 to a wall switch in a clean fashion. It does not look like the PSC01 would fit along with a switch inside of a standard electrical switch box?

It is a great suggestion.

Ela

I had some time to test a PSC01 today and there is a instantaneous off command after you remove the contact closure. That is, you just momentarily short the two contact posts and the "on" command is immediately followed by an "off" command. I think with what you are trying to do, a standard wall toggle switch would be the best bet. As far is size, the PSC01 would not fit in a J-Box. You would need to run a dry contact wire down to an outlet where the PSC01 is plugged in.

Bill
www.homeautomationnet.com

Thank you very much for running that test Bill !

I may try to locate a nice looking push button low voltage switch that I can mount in a J-box. I would then run the low voltage wire in the wall and come out in an inconspicuous area where I could plug in the PSC01.

Great suggestion ... thanks again,
Ela

If all you need is a momentary contact switch, try taking an ordinary decora style switch apart. The rocker will pry off fairly easily. Pay attention, to how the copper contact goes back together. You will find a recessed hole already manufactured into the switch. Buy a small spring from the hardware store. Cut it to length to achieve the correct bounce back, and put the whole thing back together. You now have a high quality, good looking decora rocker switch, that can be used for an x-10 3way circuit, or a momentary contact application.

Interesting solution. When you say "ordinary decora style switch" I wonder if any or all brands have the recessed hole you mention? Do you have experience with any particular brand/s.
If a XPT1 switch could be modified this way this would work perfectly for my application.

For alot of years I simply cut off the mounting tabs off a 3-way x-10 switch and placed it in the back of the switch box, and put one of these modified decora swithes up front. It was a good looking, great feeling pushbutton decora switch that did the trick. Don't load it up too much as the mounting tab acts as part of the heat sink. Mine were usually controlling a 60 watt bulb, so this was not an issue. I was lucky enough to have deep switch boxes, but if you don't, the unit fits well under a light fixture. Very similar to the x-10 inline module, only with a third wire for remote 3-way control.

The switches I modified were leviton. I don't have a model number, but they were spec grade, and usually under a couple of dollars.

Ok, hold on because this is gonna get rocky. I just joined here to express my anger over this and I anticipate getting kicked off, so here goes.

I am so FU%&ING angry at this situation that I could pi$$ blood. I'm not an EE. I have a situation where I'd like to connect two momentary switches with RF. Fine. Lord knows that every @@@@@@@ thing in our lives makes elegant use of this technology every time we turn around. It's in everything. It's everywhere. It's invading our sleep!!!!! Made my point???? OK.

So I just go to DigiKey and look for an RF xmit/rcv chip that I can shoehorn into my project with a soldering iron, antennas, opamps (to run a relay) and relay. I'm that competent (barely). WHAT THE @#@# IS THIS????? I find out after a whole lot of monkeying in forums and chatting with a whole raft adrift of bone headed assistants at parts companies that you cant 'simply' do this. No. You can't just walk across the road with this stuff. No such luck. You have to know programming, board layouts, PIC, $%##^IXZZZ. oo2, yada yada. I'm so angry I could spit brain matter.

I'm pretty sure that the average eight year old southeast asian school student could do this stuff in his/her spare time between trig homework. But noone, nowhere, that I have been able to find on this internet, can just tell me how to link two momentary switches with RF. FOR GOD'S SAKE. THIS SHOULD BE CROSSING THE @#@#@#@ STREET FOR ELEMENTARY ELECTRONICS TYPES BY NOW. NO? WHAT AM I MISSING THEN??

C'mon.... you can turn on a @#@#@# talking fish from across the room with a remote and make to wiggle and sing 'on top'a ol'smokey' but noone can tell me how to just flip a go@@amn switch? Are we really that intellectually inhibited under the gaze of the gods of modern science?

If I get one more "just hack a wireless doorbell" suggestion from someone who really ought, after any aquaintance with modern electronic design at all, to be able to point to a REAL solution, off the shelf, from a parts manufacturer, (this is NOT rocket science) I'm gonna hack my @#@#@#@@ head off with a sharp stick.

What is this?

Wow, you joined, just so you can get angry at us. You also seem like you want to get kicked off. This ought to be fun. I bet you're lots of fun at parties!



Wow, you're able to express yourself in such an adult manner... NOT!


You're even able to stereotype individuals, that will surely win you friends and lots of help in your quest. You seem like such an easy going, well mannered individual, that I can't understand why people aren't doing handsprings to help you. You do know what sarcasm is?


Or perhaps the people here that know how to perform such tasks, don't like people who hijack threads, and attempt to malign the entire human race.


Don't let me stop you.


In my opinion, the rantings of a lunatic. One that doesn't have even a vague sembelance of knowledge of how the world works. Did you ever hear the expression, "You catch more flies with honey, than vinegar." Perhaps if you really want this done, if you actually posted a coherent request in a thread asking to do something, you might get some help. But instead you decided to hijack a thread, and rant at us.

You can take the above as constructive criticism, in which case we'll see a thread with a reasonable title, that doesn't swear at us all the way through. Or perhaps you choose to continue your current tactful approach, and I with many others will choose to ignore you.

Your choice!

[Answering an old post here, but since I dug it up looking for
a similar solution I figured I'd offer back my 2 cents.]

The above will likely work for a two-position monostable switch but
I doubt it will be reliable attempting a center-off configuration.
Reason being the hysteresis built into the toggle spring mechanism
is going to resist allowing the switch to rest in the center travel.
Even adding two opposing springs into the molded spring retainers,
you may get the outer switch rocker to center rest but the internal
contact is unlikely to be centered between opposing contacts
with sufficient stability to be reliable. Ask me how I know.

Alternatively I'd toss the entire power contact mechanism along
with the rocker spring. Two consumer-grade snap action push
switches fixed in the toggle base over the spring retainer holes
(springs themselves omitted here) will provide the low voltage
contacts. The only other consideration is restoring the spring
"lift" to the rocker switch center which can be accomplished
with a block of stiff foam (or better yet, a simple compression
spring). This restores the expected toggle "feel" to the operator.

The other possibility this approach allows is dispensing with
the brown contact sub-housing along with screw contacts.
Doing so reclaims a substantial unused volume which may
be useful if you need to add some circuitry "in there".

Of course this limited to low voltage circuit use. Even then
the NEC may cast an evil eye at this type of modification
although I haven't bothered to check.