_every_ instance I have encountered/heard people talk about, where the IR543 does not operate properly, is noise related. It seems to me that the signal put out by the IR543 is weaker than many other controllers, and more likely to be affected by line noise.

The noise is not necessarily generated by something in the same room. It could be a furnace, refrigerator, washer/dryer, etc, a bab y monitor, or just beign on the wrong phase. I would suggest you try to completely isolate the problem. First, take the IR543 to another location and try running it. If it works at your neighbor's or at work, but not at your house, you know it is a noise problem. Then at home start with all appliances/breakers off and turn them on until the proble shows. Then isolate the problem with a noise filter.

Also, make sure you have a coupler/repeater installed so that the signal stays strong across both phases of power in your home.


Joe

Hi, Read this old thread and it pertains to my current problem. Anyone get resolution to their issue?

I am not having any "noise" or "signal strength" issues. My IR543 locks up when I send it a "9" ,"ON" command from my remote. The read receive light stays on constantly ( or for more than 1 minute). When I monitor the X10 communications on the power line I see a constant "A9", "A9" .... for ever. No "AoN" is ever sent.
The IR543 seems to work ok with other commands? "2" ,"Aon" etc.

After a little experimentation I found that if passed my hand in front of it while it was locked up it would clear up? Almost like it was receiving some Stray IR? Nothing I can think of is present to issue the stray IR and the remote is pointed away from the IR543 at that point.

I moved the IR543 about 1" backwards from its current location and it no longer hangs up??? I can repeat this by moving it forward again and it starts to hang up again. Seems like stray IR reflected off of components near the IR543? Very strange.

I had a similar problem several years ago. The problem only cropped up in the afternoons. The problem was the sun was shining on the IR543. :)

Thanks Larry,
But this happens all the time even at night with the room nearly dark.
Perhaps IR from near by components I suspect.

This one really had me going too. I even bought another IR543, but it exhibited the same problem. I've read numerous forums concerning this issue, but no one seemed to really have a definitive answer as to how to fix the problem. After much experimentation, I think I've found the solution.

The problem seems to be the amount of ambient infrared light reaching the IR543 sensor. The device is actually being "locked up" by this ambient infrared light. Since we can't see infrared, it's impossible to detect it's origin.

The solution was to limit the amount of ambient infrared light reaching the sensor. I first tried using a piece of opaque tape with a small hole in the middle of it in front of the sensor. Both of my IR543 units functioned perfectly after this mod.

I've produced a set of two black-on-clear stick-on P-touch labels with different hole sizes that I can send to anyone who is experiencing this problem to modify their unit.

Let me know if you need one.

Please see previous post by me. It's fixed the problem every time so far. I don't charge anything for the labels.

Kurt

I have an IR543 that when I plug into some outlets and press, all light on, some come on and some don't. Then I can put it in other outlets, and the ones that didn't come on before, now come on, and vice versa. I also turned off all the breakers and only left on two, and doesn't help.

Would the coupler repeater help?

I haven't had any issues for about 5 years. I have an amplified coupler in my breaker box (I think it's the standard fare Leviton black box unit) and and a Boosterlinc plugged in up in my loft where I have the most computer gear operating. The Boosterlinc I believe is more of a real-time amplifier while the coupler is some sort of old school repeater, and they function together real well. My friends have been constantly changing technologies in their homes. I don't see the need. I use good old X-10 transmitters, load controllers and a JDS central control. I use an IR543 for each room (different house codes) so the JDS unit knows where I am and what I want done. My URC remotes typically only output a single letter code and the JDS completes the lighting command so I only need put my finger on the dimmer button after that if I need too. I have mostly Leviton DHC button transmitters where the light switches used to be and PCS Scenemaster dimmers located either centrally or near the actual loads out of site. If you have any loose wires behind your switches, or physical strain on wire nuts, ect, it can impede the x-10 signal from that point on. You just have to keep pecking away at it or.........change technologies I guess.