I have replaced a light switch that controls an outlet with a Keypadlinc. I have hooked up all the corresponding wires (black to black, white to white, and bare copper to green), but it does not work. I press two buttons for five seconds to enter the setup mode and nothing happens. No lights flash - nothing. What could be wrong?

Are you sure it's getting power?

Remember that the keypadlinc won't control a load, so unless you rewired your junction box a bit to give the keypadlinc power all the time, then this could be your problem. It can't be wired in series with your outlet like the old switch was. If you just hit a single button on the keypadlinc does the light flash at all? If not, then either it's not getting power or it's just dead. If it is getting power, and the lights flash when you hit the buttons, then you might just not be holding the two buttons down long enough. I've found that it takes more like 8 or 10 seconds for my keypadlinc to go into programming mode.

HTH,
Brett

I'm just a novice when it comes to electrical stuff so please bear with me. There are just three wires that were connected to the old switch: black, white, and green. What do I have to differently to the keypadlinc? It doesn't appear to be getting any power because I hold the buttons down for more than ten seconds and nothing happens. What sucks is I have no way of knowing if it isn't getting power or if it's just a dud. It would seen to be as simple as hooking up the wires, but obviously that is not the case. What exactly do I have to do to 'rewire the juntion box' to give the keypadlinc power all the time?

You can get a tester for just a few bucks at the home center. One that lights up to show 110v will do the job.

It sounds like your switch location doesn't have it's own neutral. If that's the case then you can't mount the KeyPadLinc there without first pulling an additional cable.

What I'd do is wire together the two wires that were connected to the switch, making the outlet non-switched, and pull a new cable from another source of power so that you'll have a hot, neutral, and ground for the KPL.

I've done what this guy is trying to do, and it works, for the most part (long story). I had a switch that controlled a wall outlet, but I didn't want that outlet to ever be off since I use it for my HT stuff. So what I did was tie the two wires together that were originally connected to the switch, and then connected that to the black of the KPL. Then I connected the KPL white wire to neutral. The KPL works just fine, although neither it or another KPL I have will control my hall light. But I don't think that has anything to do with the KPL's in general.

Speaking of the hall light, it's a 3-way and I used the KPL and a PCS switch. I have it all working perfectly, with the PCS switch controlling the hall light and the KPL sending X10 just fine. Except that the KPL will not control the hall light. I'm assuming there is some kind of interference. But I still haven't figured it out.

The wiring in my 3-way circuit is weird, both outlets appear to be masters. That is, they each have three wires (plus neutral). I originally was just going to use a PCS slave switch but I never got that to work, so I gave up and went with the KPL. If anyone here is really good with this sort of thing I'll explain in detail how it's set up, maybe one you guys can figure out the problem.

Cheers,
John

John,

You probably have noise. Try adjusting the receive level on the PCS switch to see if you can find a setting where it will work.

Well, I've got the KPL to work finally. I connected the white and black wires from the switch to the black wire on the KPL and the copper ground to the white wire on the KPL. I guess I don't have neutrals run to my switches. I know this isn't up to code, but from reading this site, several people have done this successfully. What are the consequences of doing this?

Larry,

That's what I thought (noise). I did adjust the switch sensitivity but that didn't do it. The really weird thing is that I can plug a maxi controller into the outlet that was once controlled by a switch (now with a keypadlinc instead) and it WILL control the Hall light. But the KPL will not. Very odd. I have filters on my equipment, a coupler installed, etc. It's a very reliable system except for that one thing.

Brian,

I can't speak for not connecting the neutral, but it'd make me a little nervous. :-)

John

Brian,

There wouldn't be a problem UNTIL something else goes wrong. When that happens it's possible for the voltage between hot and ground to change significantly from the normal 110v which could damage your KPL or even create a fire hazard.

I would STRONGLY recommend pulling a new wire to that box from some other source so that you'll have unswitched power and a real nuetral available. Pulling a new wire is not has difficult as it might sound.

Ok, I have no idea how to even begin pulling a new wire to that box. How exactly do I do this without ripping out the walls?