I have a TM751 which I had been controlling using the UR51A to control a lamp which was set behing my RPTV. Since I have a Pronto, I wanted to be able to control this from the Pronto, so I just purchased an IR543. To see how the whole thing works, I plugged both the 543 and the 751 into the same 2 outlet receptacle (each device taking up it's own wall socket). Problem is, the buttons on the 543 don't seem to have any control over the Transceiver. They are both set to code "A" and the TM751 still responds to the X-10 remote, but the 543 buttons don't have any effect. The LED's operate, but that is as far as it goes. Am I missing something?

Also, I just added a page for X-10 control into my Pronto, and the LED's do react to keypresses on the TS1000. Given all that, a) if it's an electrical problem in my apartment, shouldn't it still work when they are on the same wall socket? and b) is there anything else I can do to test/confirm electrical issues?

Do I understand that you plugged the lamp into the RF transceiver?

And If you did plug the lamp into the RF transceiver, then the RF remote will still turn on the lamp?

And if so, the buttons on the Ir transceiver will not turn on the Lamp?

Both are set to code A you said, so what device number is the transceiver set to?

Yes, the lamp is plugged in to the TM751, set to House code "A."

The IR543 is also set to house code "A."

The transciever does not allow a "device code" setting like a lamp module, so I assumed it was automatically device one (it does operates with the first button on the UR51a remote).

Perhaps that is the issue. Maybe the TM751 does not work with the IR543, as it only works to extend the power of the RF signals, or as a 1 to 1 connection from an RF signal?

If you're trying to control the TM751's appliance outlet from the IR543, then you're out of luck. The TM751 has exactly zero capability to __RECEIVE__ powerline X-10 signals. It does of course receive RF X-10 and that will control the TM751's built-in appliance outlet. If you just have to have a transceiver with an appliance outlet that can be operated from powerline X-10 signals, then get an RR501. It will do everything the TM751 can and then some.

John Galvin

John:

Thanks for the confirmation on the capabilities of the TM751. I guess I'll need to get a standard lamp or appliance module (or two, three or 16 :-)) to get this thing fired up.

Bruce

Yeah Bruce, that'll do it. Thanks for the clarification.

BTW, the transceiver can be set as 1 or 9 via a sliding switch on the front.

Bruce
You do realize that if you just want to control with just your Pronto via the IR543 you don't even need the TM751 right?

Mason:

The transceiver doesn't have a slide switch to set to 0-9, just the A-0 dial which is for setting the "home" code, right?

skipo:
I realize that now :-) But I think I can probably still make use of the TM751 to use the X-10 remote in another room.

Correct. Transceivers only have the house code. Each switch or module has the house code AND unit codes 1-16. I've never used a remote like you are using. Not really sure how you would operate a switch with a unit code higher than 9. Have you ever seen a palm pad?. If you just need the X10 commands they are much more convienent to use. Check out [Link: homeautomationnet.com]

There is a key combination that allows the remote to operate devices 9-16, but it takes about 8 seconds for the switch to occur. I can see a world where someone might have two of these remotes to handle all those lights, but I'll only be operating 3 lights viza the x-10 modules, so it won't be an issue.

Since I'm planning on combining my light control with my home theater, I'll stick with the Pronto for controlling everything. Thanks for the help (btw, that link doesn't work for some reason, but I bought the IR543 from that site).

Worked earlier when I posted it but not now. A search for palm will bring it up. Have you considered using scene capable lighting switches in your HT setup? For a HT setup they are really nice to have.

What is "scene capable" lighting?

The way I plan on working it is pretty simple...for the Pronto, there will be a "day" and "night" lighting macro...all will depend on how much ambiet light there still is coming in from outside. For the "night" HT mode, all lights except the 6500K bulb behind the RPTV will be turned off.

Scene lighting involve high quality switches that are programable. With these swiches each can be set to dim up or down at a certain rate (PCS switches up to 13 minutes)They can also be set up to come to a predetermed lighting level(without having to go to full bright first). Each switch in a circuit is programmed individually with its own base address. Then each switch is also assigned a scene address and number. All switches can then be controlled as programmed with one X10 command. I use PCS smartswtiches available from the same site as above. also,if interested go to http://www.pcslighting.com There are tons of post on the subject. Do a search for "scene" and "PCS"

"Scene lighting" refers to the capability of some switches to respond to not only their primary address (for on, off, dim, etc.), but also a number of other X10 addresses. For instance, a PCS switch can respond to its primary address and 16 other addresses, each corresponding to a "scene." You can program the switch to perform various actions when it sees a scene address, including dim to a preset level, turn on, turn off, etc.

Without scenes, if you wanted to turn off all lights in your family room and turn one on, you'd have to issue a whole bunch of X10 commands. With scenes, you can simply tell all of the switches involved to listen for a particular X10 address and go on, off, or dim to a particular level (with a specified "ramp rate") when they see it. Very cool feature.

Check out http://www.pcslighting.com and find the "SceneMaster" manual in the "documents" section for a good description of scenes.

Rob