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Topic:
Channel Macro issues with Direct TV HR21
This thread has 16 replies. Displaying posts 1 through 15.
Post 1 made on Thursday October 22, 2009 at 14:45
Knightwing
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I am using a T2C with a RP-1, and a Xantech 283 blink emitter. I can't seem to get consistant channel macro's to work. The HR21 will usually miss the first # in the macro. I am using the HR20-700s (clean) codes at this point. Tried no repeats and also turning DOWN the output on the RP-1. I currently have an EXTRA .2 sec delay between the #'s this is in addition to the "built in" .3 sec of delay.

It is working "good" at best, but not reliable enough for the client at this point.

I have had no troubles with the HR20 but this is my first? HR21. The hard # buttons seem to work without issue.

What is the secret?
Post 2 made on Thursday October 22, 2009 at 14:47
RTI Installer
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try puting an exit command at the start and end of each macro
Never Ignore the Obvious -- H. David Gray
OP | Post 3 made on Thursday October 22, 2009 at 14:58
Knightwing
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I did try that as well... all I get is a "bomp" sound from the speakers I assume meaning an invalid command. I usually have the exit command in front incase the an on screen GUI is in use, but in this case I removed it because of the sound.
Post 4 made on Thursday October 22, 2009 at 15:40
RTI Installer
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On October 22, 2009 at 14:58, Knightwing said...
I did try that as well... all I get is a "bomp" sound from the speakers I assume meaning an invalid command. I usually have the exit command in front incase the an on screen GUI is in use, but in this case I removed it because of the sound.

as a test, create a system channel macro on the RP1 and then see if it misses the first digit
Never Ignore the Obvious -- H. David Gray
Post 5 made on Saturday October 24, 2009 at 00:04
Benford AV
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All the DirecTV HD boxes are very unreliable with IR control. They all work great with RS232 but every 3rd or 4th IR command just misses, even with the OEM remote.
The Soundwave
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B&W, Classe', Rotel, Paradigm, Integra, Denon, Audioquest, RTI, Niles, Pioneer Elite, Bell'O
Post 6 made on Saturday October 24, 2009 at 11:54
snarfshark
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I agree with BenfordAV that the DTV boxes have finicky IR control - but in my experience they can be made to work reliably.

You will need to experiment, but one trick which has worked for me is to cut a piece of black electrical tape large enough to cover the IR sensor on the DTV box. Poke a pinhole in the center of the piece of tape and place it over the sensor. You may need to adjust the pinhole size to get reliable control.

For a more finished look, take one of the Xantech IR emitter shield covers (the covers used to prevent iR "leakage" from emitters) and cut off the flat portion. Use the flat portion of plastic instead of electrical tape.

Whenever possible, I use RS232 control for these boxes. Unfortunately sometimes there's no budget for an RS232 capable processor.
Post 7 made on Saturday October 24, 2009 at 13:21
thecapnredfish
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Why does everyone have this problem with directv? I use niles emitters and have no problem placing it right on the sensor. Although I use my learned commands , not ones in library other than discrete power.
Post 8 made on Sunday October 25, 2009 at 13:00
snarfshark
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capnredfish,

It's funny but there have been times when IR control of the DTV boxes has worked flawlessly for me without my needing to do any workarounds.

I use both URC and RTI, when installing URC I use the URC-supplied emitters, with RTI I use Niles emitters. It doesn't seem to have anything to do with the type of remote being used. I have had systems which have worked "right out of the box" with both URC and RTI, and have had systems where I had to do the workaround with both URC and RTI.

I don't know what the variable is with these boxes, I guess it's possible that boxes made on different manufacturing runs are using different components which lead to the IR flakiness. There may be other variables in my installations which I am missing.

What I do know for sure is RS232 control is rock solid with these boxes, so when budget allows I always use an RS232 capable processor.
Post 9 made on Sunday October 25, 2009 at 16:14
jimstolz76
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On October 25, 2009 at 13:00, snarfshark said...
I don't know what the variable is with these boxes, I guess it's possible that boxes made on different manufacturing runs are using different components which lead to the IR flakiness. There may be other variables in my installations which I am missing.

I wonder if it's the HR21-xxx part of the model number that is making the difference?  As I understand it, the last three digits are who physically manufactured the unit.  I don't know if they just start with 100, then go to 200, then to 300, etc. or if there are batches of different manufacturers spread around the country.

I've have VERY little problems with DirecTV receivers.  Only when I'm using an IR repeater system do I have problems.  (point the remote 45 degrees off center and it works fine, straight on and it doesn't work - which would be corrected by a processor's IR gain)
Post 10 made on Monday January 4, 2010 at 20:35
lucifer2
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I am having the exact same issue with the hr21 using the mx6000... And I know it is the hr21 problem because the exact same macro worked flawlessly when I had a simple direct tv hd receiver... I have tried everything including adding delays to adding enter cpmmands...I will try the pinhole idea.... It is really frustrating...
Post 11 made on Monday January 4, 2010 at 20:38
lucifer2
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I am having the exact same issue with the hr21 using the mx6000... And I know it is the hr21 problem because the exact same macro worked flawlessly when I had a simple direct tv hd receiver... I have tried everything including adding delays to adding enter cpmmands...I will try the pinhole idea.... It is really frustrating... Question on the rs232.... I didn't know these units had rs232 interfaces.... is there a serial port on the back? I will check it out...
Post 12 made on Wednesday January 6, 2010 at 03:21
Ernie Bornn-Gilman
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I've found that performance sometimes varies based on what is in front of the receiver bouncing more IR back into the sensor. One client's setup worked perfectly until we closed the closet door. When we hung black cloth inside the closet door, the problem went away.

I've also seen ambient light not exactly interfere but seem to affect the sensitivity of the sensor. That's difficult to deal with because you can't pin that down. Maybe a big piece of black tape on the picture window, with a pinhole where a person can look out?
A good answer is easier with a clear question giving the make and model of everything.
"The biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place." -- G. “Bernie” Shaw
Post 13 made on Wednesday January 6, 2010 at 09:02
thefish
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We ususally have to place the emitter at least 1/2 off the IR window, with a combo of black tape, and use the In line IR adjuster from Xantech as well as adjust on the ECB-5
Post 14 made on Friday January 8, 2010 at 12:24
Groovit
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Another thing to check...

Those HR20-700 (clean) codes came from me and I discovered that one version of that clean library file had some flaws (copy-paste issue, file corruptions or issues with that particular makehex or irp version I was using to create the codes???). I had macro issues as you mentioned and the channel up/down was initiating a crazy endless channel scroll. On at least one job, I reverted to a learned library file (be careful of this as well because those codes can ofter learn in with flaws) to solve the issue. I will be implementing several different DTV boxes on a job next week. I can test those clean codes and report back.
Post 15 made on Friday January 8, 2010 at 14:07
tpowers
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Groovit
Interesting you mention the endless channel scroll thing. I must have been using those codes because i had that happen and it was driving me nuts triing to figure it out. I used differnt codes and it was all fine.
As for the other problems being discussed. i have also had the best results with RS232 however when i need to use IR on those and any devices for that matter I always modify the equipment to have the emitters buried inside. i use blink emitters so I can see that they are getting IR. This has for the most part always given me good results. I few exceptions include using IR receivers with no processor in this case DTV won't work well unless you use a specific ir receiver.
I have found only one so far that works the xantech plasma proof model however there might be more now. There are also may tricks you can use to learn tough codes. Try learning the codes by holding your hand over the front of the remote you are learning hold the button down that you are learning and pull your hand away and back again as quickly as you can sometime that seems to work. The dtv boxes are way sensitive and can be a pain. Hope this helps.
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