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I figured out how to fix most of the back light problems that show up on some remotes.
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Post 1 made on Wednesday April 9, 2008 at 11:37
RTI Installer
Super Member
Joined:
Posts:
March 2002
3,320
If you take the chassis apart on a T2+ for example and look down at the bottom left under the keypad, you will see one of 3 black screws that hold the keypad board to the back of the remote, take that screw out and lift up the clear plastic at the corner. You will see a copper circuit contact surrounding the hole where the black screw came out. On the clear plastic side there is a white conductive trace, this gets oxidized over time and actually starts to burn off on some remotes.

what I did was gently shine up both contact points, then I took a little piece of aluminum foil and folded it over about 3 times and shaped it to be about 1/8th” wide and ¾” long. I laid this in line with conductive trace starting from the contact screw hole between both surfaces. I then reinstalled the screw put the remote back together and it works great, in-fact the some of you may have noticed a few remotes that have a fractured looking touch screen, meaning the touch screen buttons look like they are all distorted and overlapping. This remote had that problem as well, but it was fixed with this simple repair.

I supose that some of the remotes might have a bad contact with the other screew on the oposite side, so you might want to check that one as well.


I have also found that a lot of the display problems with T2C’s is caused by the battery connector becoming cracked around the circuit traces. I have successfully repaired a few of these, as well as a couple of T3’s with a little solder, followed up with some epoxy to keep it from happening again.
Never Ignore the Obvious -- H. David Gray
Post 2 made on Wednesday April 9, 2008 at 12:17
SAAudio
Advanced Member
Joined:
Posts:
March 2007
993
On April 9, 2008 at 11:37, RTI Installer said...
I have also found that a lot of the display problems with
T2C’s is caused by the battery connector becoming cracked
around the circuit traces. I have successfully repaired
a few of these, as well as a couple of T3’s with a little
solder, followed up with some epoxy to keep it from happening
again.

Any chance we could get a little more info? Maybe even a couple pics of the process next time you do this?

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