I am using an SPS-1 with a Pioneer VSX-94TXH (new elite receiver) and cannot get the SPS-1 to work correctly. The red light will not come on no matter what I do. I ruled out a defective unit because there is a DVD player on the rack that worked perfectly. Anyone know of a probelm with these and how to get around it?

What are you using with the SPS-1?

Why do you need a video sense with a unit that has discrete power?

Because my configuration calls for a 3 second delay after a power on. When you press "watch cable" it has to power on the receiver and delay 3.0 seconds unless you use flags. I would rather just power sense.

What are you sensing on the unit?

The sps is the video sensing module and the vps is the power sensing module. Not going to work unless you have its hooked to a video out port on the receiver and as soon as the receiver is on, the current source that is enabled is outputting video.

You would want to use the vps-1 with a 12W "AC" power supply. The DC takes too long to discharge and thus shows on when the component is really off for about 20-30 seconds after the unit shuts off.

I know how power sensors work and the difference between the VPS-1 and the SPS-1. I appreciate your insight, but my problem is that the video sensing is not working and I wanted to see if anyone had similar circumstances... I always use power sensors and they work with most receivers I have used, just wondering what makes Pioneer different..

Sorry for temp derailing your thread. I edited my post.

What receivers do you use normally and what are you using to get video sense? VCR out?

What inputs and what output are you using on the Pioneer?

I would set up a system macro - Receiver On and add a 3 second delay behind it, then when you need to power the receiver on its got a 3 second delay behind it

Or

Everywhere you have the receiver turning on add the 3 second delay behind it...no need for sensors, or flags...its pretty simple

I would assume that the video output you are using on the Pioneer is not outputting any signal or at least all of the time. Short of a bad sensor, that is all I can think of.

I usually just create a variable power on system macro (along with other smaller command macros) for the device that gets called within other system macros. This way the variable macro time is always accounted for without having to set external delays and I only have to create the macro in one place...

If receiver power on
then:
nothing
else:
receiver on command, delay, set receiver power on flag

I then call it as part of larger activity macros...

System Macro receiver power on
System Macro receiver inputX
System Macro receiver dolby digital

You probably already know all of this :)

I agreed that using sensors, is the best way to have a faster macro, since we don't have two way communication, and as a matter of fact, I tried to implement it, every time that the budget allows. That being said, flags is a great way to do this, if the equipment is located, in a place where there is not going to be manual interaction with it, and is going to be reliable, as long as you don't loose the power. As an alternative to those methods, an input command could be sent at the beginning of the macro and then send the power on command, follow for the 3 second delay, and again the input command, this sequence, would change the input immediately, but will make the macro a little bit longer, regarding the time that pass since you press the button, to the time that the macro finish executing and you could use the remote again for another function.

If you use the voltage sensor (not the video sensor) the Elite receivers have a 12V trigger output (3.5mm jack) that would work best.

Elite receivers require only 1 second between power and input (and I've even done it with no delay and had it work)

I use a DC supply but put an LED and a 470 ohm resistor across it. This brings the voltage down very rapidly after shutoff and also gives an indication of voltage so any troubleshooting is made easier. You could even mess with the resistor value, using higher resistances, to make the voltage lower more slowly, if that would help. Or just use a resistor all by itself. Don't use less than about 470 ohms to ensure that you don't heat the resistor too much. 12 volts across 470 ohms is about 0.3 watts, so you'd get a half-watt resistor nicely warm.


This works great because if the unit is on, the input switches right away and the person holding the remote can let go and breathe. The extra three seconds before they get the page flip and control of the unit doesn't seem to be a problem.