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Topic:
Power Sensing Module
This thread has 18 replies. Displaying posts 1 through 15.
Post 1 made on Thursday August 23, 2007 at 12:06
imt
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I am using the Voltage power sensing module on my current project for the Comcast Motorolla box. I am using a Xantech 12v power supply (Cut off the connector). What I have noticed is that after the power is switch off on the box it takes about 10+ seconds for the red led to fade out and the power to be discharged on the voltage sensing module. Is this normal or is there a particular transformer one should use?

The only issue I can see is that if a customer powers off and then forgot he wanted to tape something and hits the button to power back on the system, it skips the power on command, for the cable box, since it still thinks its powered up during that window.

I know the chances of this happening are slim but wanted to get any other thoughts.

Post 2 made on Thursday August 23, 2007 at 13:23
Glackowitz
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TRy using an AC output power supply, they lose power quicker and wont leave you hanging out there
There's no worse feeling than that millisecond you're sure you are going to die after leaning your chair back a little too far.
OP | Post 3 made on Thursday August 23, 2007 at 13:49
imt
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On August 23, 2007 at 13:23, Glackowitz said...
TRy using an AC output power supply, they lose power quicker
and wont leave you hanging out there

Do you have a brand you recommend? Whats the voltage? I thought that they had to be 12V DC. This is my first power sensing project so not as familiar so any links pics etc would be great so I can identify.

As a side note. On this board is there anyway to subscribe to a tpoic and be notified via email when someone sends a reply? I have been looking all over and don't see where this can be done like other boards. Thanks again.
OP | Post 4 made on Thursday August 23, 2007 at 14:18
imt
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I think I found it

[Link: mainlandmart.com]
Post 5 made on Thursday August 23, 2007 at 21:04
Glackowitz
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the 3rd one down would be fine, you dont need a ton ov power, 100Ma is perfect
There's no worse feeling than that millisecond you're sure you are going to die after leaning your chair back a little too far.
Post 6 made on Thursday August 23, 2007 at 21:21
audioslayve
Select Member
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While the power supply is on diconnect it from the sensor ( where they are terminated ) .... does the module still stay on as long?

Try that, get back with an answer. bare with me here


audioslayve

Last edited by audioslayve on August 23, 2007 21:35.
The optimist claims the glass is half full; the pessimist claims it is half empty. An engineer observes that the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

Ps, you can't fix stupid
Post 7 made on Thursday August 23, 2007 at 21:40
estech
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If it's only about 10 seconds, how about a "Please Wait" page for the shut down sequence?
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.
OP | Post 8 made on Friday August 24, 2007 at 09:31
imt
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I will test the disconnecting of the power leads later.

I guess I could also use a please wait.

I test this out AM at my home with my Moto box before I went to the customers last night. However, When I went the power sensor LED would not come on at all. I used a voltage tester on the power supply and was reading 12V DC so I know its not that. I guess the VPS went bad. Can't see why unless it couldn't take the repeated off and on testing I was doing yesterday. Picking up a new one today and will RMA the other.

I will post the results of the power lead test later.
Post 9 made on Friday August 24, 2007 at 09:50
Rob Grabon
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The other option is to put a basic 12v relay in line. This will kill power to the voltage sensor instantly.

12v supply in switched outlet -> +12 to coil and common on relay. -12 to coil and voltage sensor. +12 from switched of relay to voltage sensor.
Technology is cheap, Time is expensive.
Post 10 made on Friday August 24, 2007 at 10:28
estech
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The relay alone may work, but I had to solve this same problem more than once, and relays alone would usually "chatter" as the power supply discharged. I built a few small circuits out of a capacitor and two diodes that would shut the relay off immediately. Right now I can't find my schematic drawing. But it's pretty simple, very cheap, and reliable.
I'll find it, and post it.

Of course, if the AC power supply suggested above works, that's probably even simpler.
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.
OP | Post 11 made on Friday August 24, 2007 at 12:18
imt
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Out of curiosity would the Relay idea work with the integrated RP6 relay Contact Closure?
Post 12 made on Friday August 24, 2007 at 12:54
cjoneill
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Thanks for reminding me. I have to switch one out as well. Whatever transformer I'm using in the back of my SA 8300HD box takes around a hole minute before the power dissipates enough so that it doesn't register with the sensor.

CJ
I'm not a pro
Post 13 made on Monday August 27, 2007 at 23:04
pyxis
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13
Hopefully an easier answer to your pwr sense.... Unless you are using multiple controls in your system (ie:rp6 with a niles whole house music system / russound cav6.6, etc., and both systems are running and sensing the same equipment), i have found the flags in the programming to be very reliable. Create a flag named pwr on, use "flag test" anytime you want to power the system on or off, and set or clear the "pwr on flag" accordingly. I've been doin this on any stand-alone rti control system for a couple of years, saving money and hook up time, and haven't had any issues. Just warn the customer if they pwr things on manually, they will have to pwr them off manually to restore the "pwr sync" of the system to the programming. Most customers won't pwr things on manually if the remote works and will figure it out on their own if the pwr doesn't come on when the try to turn their system on.
Post 14 made on Monday August 27, 2007 at 23:38
Benford AV
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Why not just use the video sensing module instead?

The cable box will imediately drop composite video output thus solving your problem.
The Soundwave
www.the-soundwave.com
B&W, Classe', Rotel, Paradigm, Integra, Denon, Audioquest, RTI, Niles, Pioneer Elite, Bell'O
Post 15 made on Tuesday August 28, 2007 at 06:30
dinom
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Not true, many cable boxes put out a "black" video image even when off. They never truly shut off their composite outputs.

Dino


On August 27, 2007 at 23:38, Benford AV said...
Why not just use the video sensing module instead?

The cable box will imediately drop composite video output
thus solving your problem.
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