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Topic:
Video / voltage sensors?
This thread has 24 replies. Displaying posts 16 through 25.
OP | Post 16 made on Monday May 1, 2000 at 22:52
Greg Brown
Historic Forum Post
That is one way to do it but, there is no reason to use the low voltage sensor for that application. You should use the high voltage (120 volts AC ) sensor to plug straight into the switched outlet. This is what it is made for.

The low voltage sensor can be used with a relay, a 12 volt trigger or a fan, just to name a few. If the unit has a 120 volt outlet, just use the high voltage sensor.

About warranties; We have taken many of Sony units in for service with these modifications. I just tell them what they are and they leave them alone. They also honor the warranty if it applies. Other manufactures do the same. Just make sure you do a nice and neat job.


Good Luck,
OP | Post 17 made on Tuesday May 2, 2000 at 12:01
DJ Garcia
Historic Forum Post
Greg,

As far as I can tell there is no high voltage sensor for the T2. I guess maybe you could adapt some third-party one and use it to trigger the low-voltage T2 sensor. What we really need is an ac current sensor into which you plug the device being sensed.

Cheers,

DJ
OP | Post 18 made on Tuesday May 2, 2000 at 14:07
Dell
Historic Forum Post
Current sensors are by far the hardest of all the sensors to get to work consistently. On most of the equipment that would benefit from a current sensor have very little current draw difference between the on and off states.
Take for instance cable boxes, VCRs, CD players; a lot of these only turn on the displays when turned on. All the rest of the electronics are on all the time. It makes it very hard to work with.
OP | Post 19 made on Tuesday May 2, 2000 at 17:41
Steven Grimm
Historic Forum Post
The only devices I'd want a sensor for would be a TV and a front projector, both of which seem like they'd be best suited to a current sensor. The VCR that doesn't have a discrete "power on" code, I leave turned on all the time -- the power draw difference, as Dell says, isn't too significant.

So, to recap all the above, it sounds like I won't be able to easily get the T2 and its accessories to only send the power-toggle code to my projector if it's turned off. Bummer.
OP | Post 20 made on Tuesday May 2, 2000 at 18:14
Greg Brown
Historic Forum Post
DJ,

I am not sure; but, I do not think that the RTI will know what type of sensor it has plugged into it. The sensors we use all have a stereo mini jack that plugs into another module. All of the sensors are reporting the same information to the module (i.e. if it is on or off.)


The module does not care what type of sensor is plugged into it. RTI may have a specific port for their sensors. Until I have one I am just guessing.

In the program you will probably just say you have a sensor and what state it should be in. Example: In your System On button you could say ( If sensor 1 off ) this would tell it to issue the on command again if it senses the unit not coming on.

Just from experience with all of the sensors, I would have to say that we use them as a last resort. If you have discrete codes use them. They are still the most reliable. If you have discrete codes and a RF remote like the RTI, it should be just about as good as at can get.


Dell,

You are correct about the low voltage sensors. They measure both AC and DC from 3-28 volts. The lower the voltage the harder it is to determine the state.

This is why you should use the ( AC Detector Probe or the Led Probe ). Just from experience, we found these two to work the best.

Good Luck,


OP | Post 21 made on Tuesday May 2, 2000 at 18:35
Mitch @ RTI
Historic Forum Post
Steven,

The SPS-1 Video Sync Power Sensor is a device that monitors the on and off status of almost any video component. Since most televisions and video source equipment output some sort of video signal or "blue" screen when they are on, the SPS-1 can sense true on and off status.

When the attached component is powered on, the SPS-1 detects the vertical sync pulse present in the composite video signal or on the Y output of component video signal and sends a logic signal to the System Interface Module.

If you need to you can Y the video signal out of the source component and put the SPS-1 on one side of the Y and the original destination on the other side of the Y.

The SPS-1 has a high impedance input and will not effect picture quality.

Thanks
MitchM @ RTI
OP | Post 22 made on Tuesday May 2, 2000 at 22:03
Steven Grimm
Historic Forum Post
Really? That doesn't seem right to me. I don't think I've ever seen a TV with a video *output*. Neither of the TVs in my house have one, nor does my front projector.

I'm sure some TVs with video outputs exist, but I think it's a stretch to say most of them do.

Maybe I'm just misunderstanding what you're saying, though. Can you give an example of what the cabling would look like, and where the SPS-1 would go, in the following situation?

1 VCR with discrete on/off codes
1 TV with only a power toggle code
Wanted: A macro that turns the TV on if needed and starts playing a tape.

Thanks!
OP | Post 23 made on Wednesday May 3, 2000 at 18:09
DJ Garcia
Historic Forum Post
Steven,

I think Mitch was referring to video sources mainly, like VCRs, DVD players, DBS and cable set-top boxes and such. Actually my Sony TV has a video out, but I have discrete codes for it.

In my case, I can use the video sensor for my Hughes DSS box and DVHS recorder.

Cheers,

DJ
OP | Post 24 made on Wednesday May 10, 2000 at 04:37
Mark Seaton
Historic Forum Post
Steven,

Just about every TV with more than just stereo audio inputs & outputs has a "monitor out". This is most often intended for running the output to a VCR, etc. As for how much can be done with video and voltage sensing... How inventive are you? You don't HAVE to hack into any device. Niles, and other companies make many devices which monitor power, video, or other signals and will output a 12V trigger. Many higher quality power conditioners offer some of these features also. I don't see many applications at all where something cannot be worked out for <$50. BTW, Niles makes a pretty simple little current sensing outlet which is not too pricy.

Once again, just like with the Pronto/RC-5000, the limitations and usefulness of any such programmable remote comes back to the ingenuity of the programmer. The RTI remote will just add another tool to the arsenal. No remote is the "best" for everyone, and any can be a royal PITA to work if set up carelessly.

Then again, if this was so easy, I wouldn't have been able cover rent & books this past year at school ;-).

Mark Seaton
OP | Post 25 made on Wednesday May 10, 2000 at 11:22
DJ Garcia
Historic Forum Post
Mark,

Thanks for the info on the third party sensors. Looking at the documentation I just got from RTI, it shows this kind of set up too. It also shows you'll need an industry standard IR emitter module for each channel you use, which are easy to get also, but I hadn't realized you'd need.

DJ
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