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Topic:
RS 15-1994 JP1 details revealed
This thread has 99 replies. Displaying posts 31 through 45.
OP | Post 31 made on Friday December 15, 2000 at 16:38
Jerry
Historic Forum Post
Hi Rob,

I'm going to attempt to build myself one of those remote programmer gizmos this weekend, so I'd like to take you up on your offer of software.

When I'm not trying not to destroy consumer electronics equipment, I'm a programmer, so if you send me the source, I'd be happy to try to polish the code or implement any additions you want and send you any changes I make.

-Jerry
[email protected]
OP | Post 32 made on Friday December 15, 2000 at 17:03
The Robman
Historic Forum Post
I will send you the executable but I don't have the source code. The program was written by "HW Hackr" and he has said that he will release the source code under the GNU Public License (GPL) as soon as he has cleaned it up a bit.

GPL is the standard for open-source projects. Basically, it means that anyone can use the software for anything, but any changes they make must be made
publically available.

It's great to see more people making these boxes, the more people that have them the more we can swap codes with each other.

Here's our member list so far...

1. HW Hackr
2. The Robman (me!)
3. Mike Pauker (just finished his box today, congrats)
4. ????

Who'll be number 4, will it be Jerry or Matt, who is also building a box this weekend?

Rob.
OP | Post 33 made on Friday December 15, 2000 at 17:19
Jerry
Historic Forum Post
Thanks Rob!

>>Who'll be number 4, will it be Jerry or Matt, who is also building a box this weekend?

As they'd say on Iron Chef, "The heat will be on!"

-Jerry
OP | Post 34 made on Saturday December 16, 2000 at 19:48
The Robman
Historic Forum Post
If anyone finds a good source for the DB25 connector assembly with a ribbon and box connector attached, please share the details. Also if anyone finds a source for the 6-pin connector itself please share the details too. In most cases it will be easier to just get a larger connector and cut it down to size, but it would be nice to use the real thing.

If any of the people building these boxes have any thoughts or tips to share, please do so.

Rob.
[Link: hifi-remote.com]
OP | Post 35 made on Sunday December 17, 2000 at 14:12
Lars
Historic Forum Post
Jameco (http://www.jameco.com) have some items that might be used: DB25 connector assembly, item #149622, $4.95, they don't have the 2x3 connector, but they do have a 2x4 that might be used. The cutout on both my C7 and Replay remotes looks like it is big enough for it. Item #103253, $.29. If not they do have a 1x3 connector, you can probably glue a couple of these together to make a 2x3, item #157382, $.15 (min. purchase of 10)

-lars
OP | Post 36 made on Sunday December 17, 2000 at 21:39
Jerry
Historic Forum Post
Woo hoo! I got it working tonight. For some reason, remoteif -check only gives an OK about 1 time in 20, so for the longest time I thought something was wrong with my circuit. But after going over the circuit a bunch of times and checking the voltages and the output of the buffers using my own parallel port r/w program, I figured it wouldn't hurt to try connecting it to the remote, and it successfully read my 15-1994! Haven't tried writing to it yet though.

HW Hackr - any clue why remoteif -check wasn't working?

Anyway, now that I have that working, I have to see if I want to figure out how to program it for my Replay remote myself, or just ask Robman for his custom setup file. Anyway, that's for tomorrow.

-Jerry
OP | Post 37 made on Monday December 18, 2000 at 00:00
The Robman
Historic Forum Post
I haven't heard from Matt yet, so I guess Jerry gets the number three spot, congratulations and welcome to the club (I'll tell you about the handshake later!)

I'm puzzled by the check failure, I've never had check fail on me, so until we get some input from HW I would advise holding off on writing to the remote.

But if you wanna give it a try anyway, here's my custom code for Replay, use this to overlay positions 100: thru 1e0: then activate it using device code VCR/0618. This version of the code puts the discrete ON on the POWER button and the discrete OFF on the SLEEP button. I have put the CH Guide button on the VOL UP button, which I suggest you use key mover to put on the SURR button, and I have put ENTER on the VOL DOWN button, which I suggest you move to shift/SELECT. The POWER toggle is on the MUTE button. I'm assuming that you will overlay the three volume buttons with the volume controls for your AMP or TV.

Here's the code....


100: 01 d7 01 dd 92 00 fe fe fe fe ff e0 01 00 00 00
110: 01 00 02 00 03 00 04 00 05 00 06 00 07 00 08 00
120: 09 00 1e 00 0a 00 0c 00 0f 00 10 00 0d 00 26 00
130: 27 00 25 00 1a 00 28 00 12 00 16 00 18 00 14 00
140: 1b 00 0e 00 2a 00 1d 00 29 00 0b 00 20 00 21 00
150: 23 00 22 00 24 00 1f 00 1c 47 93 22 8b 13 cf 85
160: 40 08 04 00 de 00 00 00 00 00 ca 0d bf 05 35 01
170: a8 e4 03 2d e4 04 2e e4 05 2f e4 06 30 08 2d f6
180: 80 6c 19 03 e6 04 03 08 2e f6 80 6c 19 05 f6 80
190: 6c 19 06 08 2f f6 80 6c 19 07 f6 80 6c 19 08 08
1a0: 30 f6 80 6c 19 09 f6 80 6c 19 0a 2c 04 10 0a 10
1b0: 09 10 08 10 07 10 06 10 05 10 04 2a f0 00 11 e6
1c0: 10 07 8d 01 33 2c 04 cf 10 c1 df 10 c1 90 c0 fb
1d0: 03 b6 c1 03 2a f1 af 00 01 22 66 01 04 00 01 00
1e0: 92 01 59 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00


If you want to put Replay on the P&P button, change the values in 016 & 017 to "22 66" and that'll do it.

Rob.

OP | Post 38 made on Monday December 18, 2000 at 17:41
Odie34
Historic Forum Post
Isn't "22 66" equivalent to VCR code 614?

-- Mark
OP | Post 39 made on Monday December 18, 2000 at 20:59
The Robman
Historic Forum Post
Yup, that's what it means, that's why I was suggesting that to program the P&P button to work Replay, that's the code to put there.

Rob.
OP | Post 40 made on Monday December 18, 2000 at 22:07
The Robman
Historic Forum Post
OK Folks,
The software is online now, get it while it's hot. There's three programs available at the moment.

The first is remoteif which will operate the new HW box that you have just made, you use this program to dump the memory of the remote and to re-write to the memory.

The next program is disdump. You use this program to display the contents of the dump in a slightly more readable format. You can edit the file that disdump creates and then use the third program, asmdump to reformat it into the dump format ready for re-loading into the remote.

As time goes on these programs will become more sofisticated, and hopefully other people will write new programs too.

The remoteif zip file also includes the source code. All three of these programs were written by HW Hackr and while you are free to use them, he retains the copyright in them.

Rob.
[Link: hifi-remote.com]
OP | Post 41 made on Tuesday December 19, 2000 at 12:06
Jerry
Historic Forum Post
Ok, I successfully added Rob's Replay codes to my remote last night! At first I thought it wasn't working because I was trying VCR/0618. Then I saw the followup note to the one with Rob's Replay codes in it and realized that 0618 should be 0614, and everything worked fine after that.

Some general comments about building the box: I used a protoboard instead of soldering to a breadboard, and HW Hackr thinks this slowed down the hardware enough to cause it to fail the remoteif -check. I made my 6-pin connector by mangling a 12-pin connector. I tried using a 9-volt battery at first instead of a wall transformer and that didn't work - maybe I had the grounding wrong, or maybe the amperage? After switching to a transformer it worked fine. Since I was only planning to use the box with a 4-battery remote, I eliminated the switch and two diodes.

-Jerry
OP | Post 42 made on Tuesday December 19, 2000 at 14:18
The Robman
Historic Forum Post
Here's why it would have been better to include the voltage switch, the remote that comes with ReplayTV is also a UEIC remote, so it is compatible with this box. Therefore you could dump the memory of the Replay remote using the box, which is how we got the Replay code in the first place.

I'm hoping that as more people build these boxes, we'll get more dumps taken from other OEM remotes made by UEIC so we can get more samples of upgraded codes as all OEM remotes have upgrade codes in them.

I have also put up the executables for the disdump and asmdump programs, these will aid in editing the dump code if you want to tweek it in the future.

For example, if you decide that you want to add a step to a macro, rather than deleting it and re-programming it from scratch, fragmenting your memory in the process, you can simply dump the memory and add the step in the code. If you do with with the raw dump, you'll have to delete all the address fields from the beginning of the line and re-insert them once you've realligned everything, but using the disdump and asmdump programs makes it alot easier.

Rob.
OP | Post 43 made on Tuesday December 19, 2000 at 22:35
Schlepp
Historic Forum Post
Hey,

I've got this 79' VW Scirroco that has timing problems.

Can this 6 pin thingy maybe help me out?

Oh yeah, I got an old RCA tv that don't use no remote control. I jest get the wife to get up and change the channel for me. Will it help with her? She's kinda slow, specially when the the yungun's are hollorin fer food.

Nah, just kidding.

You guys are really making great advances with the remote. My hat is off to you guys.
On the forefront of real "user controlled" controlling devices.

thanks for all the dedication and hard work

If I can just get the yungun's to sleep long enough, so I can put together a "box" for myself.

once again...
thanks to Rob and everyone else for all the dedication and hardwork.
OP | Post 44 made on Wednesday December 20, 2000 at 09:57
The Robman
Historic Forum Post
<<If I can just get the yungun's to sleep long enough, so I can put together a "box" for myself.>>

I hear ya! "HW Hackr" made my box for me but I'd still like to make one for myself just for the fun of it. I ordered all the parts from the RS web site but got impatient and ran down to my local RS and bought them immediately so I could start it over the weekend but I couldn't find the time.

Even though we have most of the main info figured out, there's still lots of bits ans pieces that need to be decoded, still lots of experiments to be run, so the more of you that make these boxes the better, then you can all join in the decoding effort.

Not to mention that you'll all be able to totally custom program your remotes, just imagine, a $30 remote that almost as versitile as the $400 Pronto!

Rob.
OP | Post 45 made on Wednesday December 20, 2000 at 11:19
JT
Historic Forum Post
For those of you that don't want to be ripped off by your local RadioShack for parts ;-) you can order them from electronics distributors like Mouser ( www.mouser.com ) or Digi-Key ( www.digikey.com )

Also, if anyone wants to design a PCB for the box, I can get some boards made if there's enough demand.

JT
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