OK.
Now I have lifted off the flex and I have available the glass with 4 pads that seems to be done with a conductive paste.
The flex is instead gold finished.

Both sides need to be carefully cleaned because there is a strange white/transparent resin (probably a residuous of a conductive tape used for the original contact).

What I have noticed at the microscope is that all the 4 tracks are interrupted just at the edge before of the protective cover.
This is a clear sign of bad process from the toutchscreen manufacturer.
PHILIPS is for sure aware of this !!

Now I'm removing a bit the green isolation so that with a conductive paint I can restore all the 4 contacts.
Then I will bond again with a conductive glue the flex to the four pads on the glass.

I will let you know.

Bye

miazza

AT the end I did a very inaccurate job and all the 4 pads were in short with the conductive glue.
Trying to lift the flex I have definitively damaged the flex.

The only soultin I have now is to dismount the screen and solder 4 wires.

Do someone of you know a procedure about how to dismount the touchscreen ?

Thanks in advance

Ciao

miazza

Miazza I fixed several 3000s using conductive silver epoxi. Re-glue the flex will not work because you cant control the glue under the flex and a short circuit is created, you have to change the ribon for 4 wires.

Take the screen out of the main board, pull the black plastic covering the contacts on the back of the screen, unsolder the touchscrren ribon, solder 4 wires in the back of the screen, glue the 4 wires in the touchsreen w/ conductive epoxy, paint will not hold.

In 10% of the cases the touchscreen can not be recovered (has another problems, not only the ribon lost of contact.

I'm wating for a microscope to arrive so I can check about the interruption under the plastic layer, never noticed that before, maybe it can save the 10% that did not worked.

By the way, be careful about cuting the plastic top of the touchscreen, because thats the layer that touch the glass and make the contact. Cut in the sensitive area will make it unresponsive.

Miazza, the ribon is interrupted or the white contacts on the glass are interruped near the plastic layer?

At the beginning it was only the white contacts on the glass now, after a "very bad handling from myself" also he ribon is interrupted.

the ribon becom interrupted because I tried to restore it directly on the glass by means of a conductive epoxy glue.

Bo not try it becasue the result will be a splash of conductive glue putting in short the four contacts.

Now the job is getting harder and harder.

I think the best would be to substitute the touchscreen but I'm still triing (when I have some spare time) to recover the ribon.

Ciao

miazza

Put 4 wires in the place of the ribon.

I will try.

Thanks

miazza

Ossocao, Dropped my remote and broke screen. I am in the middle of replacing it. Do I need to put the new screen in with the ribbon on the opposite side of the remote and run wires over to the contacts or do I put it in like the original? I noticed that the solder contacts on the new ribbon are facing down and would be very difficult to solder. Thanks for your help. Mike/KD9RG

Never mind figured it out. Of course just as I got finished I cracked the new one. Wonderful. Now I'll know how to do it when I do it the second time. Even with the crack in it it works, but I am having a hard time calibrating it. Mike/KD9RG

The new touchscreen goes exactly in the same way and position of the original one. You have to center it right because it's smaller.

I recently picked up a couple of these remote controls and one had the exact issue touched upon in this thread. I did the "pin prick" method but used a set of dental picks that you can get from Home Depot instead. It allows a more control and will not bend or hurt your finger(s).

It worked like a charm, the remote is 100% operational and has been upgraded with the new firmware. I sealed the indentations with CAIG Pro-Gold, just in case corrosion would be a factor later. www.caig.com

Good luck and thanks folks!

Regards,
Mark
Polk Audio CS

Ossocao,

Ok, after putting in a 2nd screen because I cracked the first replacement as I was finishing installing it, I have installed a 2nd new screen. I am having trouble calibrating the screen. I used small wires to connect the screen to the ribbon cable. I am starting to think that I have the wires reversed. It won't calibrate. Can you help me??

Nevermind, I was making this harder that it should be. Once I drew it out I realized I had reversed the connections. Duh.

Which post are ppl using for the pin trick method?

Hi all,
The story is much the same as those dating back to 2005 in the start of this thread!!
Bought my RU-950 (TSU-3000) in the UK March 2005. Flawless operation until 2 days ago. Overnight it just stopped working. Opened the case and exposed the offending contact area - just to try I connected the battery pack and it was once again working. Note this was without doing the pin-prick method. This to me sucks of a "dry joint". Just to be thorough (and as so many people had good long term results) I also did the pin-prick trick!!
Just a post to say thankyou to all that persist in helping others and post here, and how dissappointed with Philips I am that after over 2 years they have not posted back here with there advice/fix/offer of repair for the faulty workmanship.

I am still however tempted by the new TSU-9400 - will I never learn?!!

Nic